[FOUROHOH]

Anyone have experience with installing screw-in studs with the heads on the engine and engine in car? Heads have machined bosses. (1973 4X)

In the meantime, has anyone had success with re-seating (driving back in) the pulled up stud (s)? What is best way to re-seat? Any recommended special tool? I'd hate to start on it with a ball peen hammer and break it.

Tapping them back down is short term but an attempt to quiet down the valve train while I plan the screw-in replacement. (It's my summer driver)

I put a straight edge across top of studs and yes, some are up a bit, causing rocker arm noise.

Thanks for any input.

Bill

[Squidward]

I have never done it with heads installed, nor would I. You WILL create metal shavings, and you will have to take insane precautions to keep the debris from entering the oil drain back holes. On top of that, you will get metallic cuttings in and around the rest of the components, and these cuttings will wash into the oil pan.

I'm not even sure you could tap the holes with the valves installed, or if you would even want to. I've only ever done it with heads removed, and valves/springs removed.

Pull heads, remove valves/springs/retainers, tap for 1/2-13 threads (make sure to get straight alignment - I used a jig), and install ARP 290-7201 studs with 1/8" cut off the bottom. And save the irreparable damage to your back and your youth.

I've done the helicoil thing, too. Not a fan. A 1/2-13 tap runs right in, and does the job. Use a starter tap, and then finish it with a bottom tap. Just go slow and don't break it off.

[FOUROHOH]

Thanks for the input. Yeah, taking them off is really the right way to do it. May be a winter job.....

[Squidward]

Interesting question, tho, and maybe others can chime in.

I cut 1/8" off the bottom of the ARP conversion studs. It worked great when combined with the pushrod guideplate so that the stud wouldn't bottom out in the hole.

I wondered if it would be ok to stack a washer under the stud instead of cutting, and then just take up the rest of the difference with the rocker nut, possibly adding a washer under the rocker nut to get the right amount of set screw engagement. Thoughts?

[steve25]

It's a no go to do it with the heads in the boiler room on the motor!

If your running tall enough valve covers then one way around the issue at least for this Summer is to run poly locks instead of the stock rocker arm nut and then run a stud girdle which should add enough resistance to not have any other rocker studs pull up on you.

Also if you know someone who can weld you tack weld the stud to the boss with the right welding rod and proceedure.

TRW use to offer a hair oversized replacement stud which would work also if you can find any.

[Squidward]

Originally Posted by steve25

It's a no go to do it with the heads in the boiler room on the motor!

If your running tall enough valve covers then one way around the issue at least for this Summer is to run poly locks instead of the stock rocker arm nut and then run a stud girdle which should add enough resistance to not have any other rocker studs pull up on you.

Also if you know someone who can weld you tack weld the stud to the boss with the right welding rod and proceedure.

TRW use to offer a hair oversized replacement stud which would work also if you can find any.

Stud girdle and welding? Seems to be a little overkill as a band-aid for the summer.

[steve25]

Atleast you can still have the added plus of running the stud girdle once the heads have been fixed, no?

Or resell it after your done with it and it got you through this Season of driving needs!