[SD455DJ]

Originally Posted by Mister Pontiac

That would be a fairly 'correct' 71 400 for you (YS would have been from an automatic car, but regardless), $1400 is too high for a core short block, IMO.

If it was a complete engine, especially with the #96 heads, then I would say you might have something.

Personally, I would pass on this one too.

But since you have a lot of other things to do on the car, keep at it. The right engine will pop up. Keep an eye on the classified's here on the forums too. Someone up in your neck of the woods may have just what you need.

X2! Way too expensive for a short block! That's the price of a complete engine in my book...carb to pan. Keep looking like Mr. Pontiac said. I paid $400 each for the last '70 400 (complete std. bore) and '73 455 long block (+ .030"). A couple of my cars have 'transplant' engines in them and 99.99% of people never know, look, or ask...even a Pontiac shows. Some have the same year heads so the casting numbers look kosher to the inspectors.

Dennis

[79 Phoenix]

Yes, seems very high. I blew up the photo of the top of the piston and see what may be a .040.

I'm almost tempted to go get the $500 one but what if I get there and find it's not really a 400? It could be but without pictures, who knows?

So I will keep working and keeping my eye open for the right engine.

[79 Phoenix]

I found another 400 on craigslist that posted today... It's a 76 which I know are not the most desirable blocks but sounds like it shouldn't need a lot of machine shop work... I asked several questions and his answers are below...

He was asking $1800 for both engine and transmission... However, I see ad is already gone so it may already be sold. But what do you guys think of a later 400 like this? It sounds stock and it has 6X heads... probably quite tame... ANY THOUGHTS?

1. Was rebuilt before I got the car , which I bought from second generation engineering shop in NJ right before Covid. Has rebuilt starter, rebuilt alternator , cam bearings ,timing chain,etc
2. I believe its bored 30 over
3. Pretty much stock
4. The rope seal leaks it’s 2 piece stock Pontiac and they are known to leak ,I would put a new one piece rope seal solve the leak issue. Doesn’t knock smoke or tick runs great. It has a Quadrajet on it I would change to Holley unit personally.
5. I removed it because my friend convinced me to go to a newer fuel injection LS motor which I still regret doing, I should’ve kept this drivetrain in cost me a lot of $ to changeover and now no going back.
6. Would like to sell the drivetrain as a whole.
Thanks for your interest in it any other questions let me know I’ll try and answer best I can

[79 Phoenix]

Post re-appeared...

https://longisland.craigslist.org/pt...681612078.html

[Mister Pontiac]

That seems like a fair price for the stated condition for the complete engine and trans. Maybe see if he'll take $1500?

If you do buy it, re-list the trans to see if you can get a couple hundred back. Maybe you end up with a complete running 400 for around $1200-$1300? Hard to argue that if it's as described and you can drive the car that way for a few years. (He did mention he wishes he would have stuck with this engine in his car. That says something)

But you're right. It's not the most desirable block. Still, for what you're doing, it would fit the bill very well. If it's as good as he states, I would just drop it in without doing a thing to it, and then drive! Let the rear main leak a bit. At least the car will be back on the road in a weekend if everything else is ready to roll.

Of course this is only what I would do simply to get the car quickly back on the road. If that's not your main purpose, and you want something a little nicer and 'more correct,' spend the time to search for a 1971 400 or 455, build it as you desire, then call it done. My only thought is that is a lot longer in time and dollars vs buy something like this 400, drop it in and go!

You can always build that perfect 455 a couple years down the road, then sell off the 400...

[79 Phoenix]

Okay..thanks. i asked him what car it came out of and how long its been out. Also asked him what was done to the engine when it was rebuilt.Here are some more answers ...

1. I have a 1971 Firebird
2. About 2 months
3. I have a list from the previous owner and can only go by his word, he builds firebirds for a living so I took what he said at face value- rings, cam bearings, lifters, camshaft timing chain sprocket, new ignition module, has rebuilt alternator , rebuilt starter. The motor is very clean & ran strong

[79 Phoenix]

He said oil pressure around 35 (asked him to clarify hot, idle, cold??) He said temp a little over 200 degrees. Got the video of it running...Actually sound quite nice & healthy... not noisy... Is there a way I can attach a video? It's in 3GP format.

[79 Phoenix]

With this 76 engine I assume I would need to get a new flywheel with a smaller register hole because the newer crank registers are smaller. Is this correct?

Also, the block is a 76 and has been used with an automatic trans so would I need to drill and tap a hole in the block for the clutch linkage? Would there be a boss on the block that I could drill into?

Any other compatibility issues I should be aware of?

[79 Phoenix]

If I buy this engine I would rather not change the rear seal unless it's really bad. Has anyone changed a rope seal with crankshaft in?

[79 Phoenix]

Originally Posted by 79 Phoenix

He said oil pressure around 35 (asked him to clarify hot, idle, cold??) He said temp a little over 200 degrees. Got the video of it running...Actually sound quite nice & healthy... not noisy... Is there a way I can attach a video? It's in 3GP format.

He said oil pressure is 35# at idle when hot. Has 47k mi on since rebuild.

ALSO, would my 71 bell housing bolt up to the 76 block?

[79 Phoenix]

Well, I bought a 76 557 block 400! Seems very solid. So extra motivation to get the rest of the car ready for the engine and hopefully fire it up by spring...maybe before.

Now I need to figure out what to do with the two 350's I have... The original and the one I bought last spring.

[Baron Von Zeppelin]

You might want to use a pair of the 350 heads on the 400 engine , for better compression ratio / power.
Unless the new 400 is already sitting on go.
It will probably just barely be around 8:1 comp ratio as-is.

Congrats on finding a suitable replacement engine

[79 Phoenix]

Originally Posted by Baron Von Zeppelin

You might want to use a pair of the 350 heads on the 400 engine , for better compression ratio / power.
Unless the new 400 is already sitting on go.
It will probably just barely be around 8:1 comp ratio as-is.

Congrats on finding a suitable replacement engine

Thanks! Engine ID is...1976 A or B Body 2 bbl carb 170 HP Heads= 6X Block# = 500557 Code# = X4
So, a low performance 400, which is okay... It runs good and I don't want to put more money into the #94 heads so I will leave building it up more to the next owner... On video, engine sounded real healthy but not lopey... so I assume it's pretty much stock. It had a serious rebuild several years ago and does have an Edelbrock intake though. I don't know if any enhancements were made to the 6X heads or the cam. I know cam, lifters and cam bearings were new with rebuild... So we'll see come spring...

['ol Pinion head]

Did the '76 400 engine block have the 5 bolt style motor mount pattern or the late mounts 3 bolt only style?

[79 Phoenix]

Originally Posted by 'ol Pinion head

Did the '76 400 engine block have the 5 bolt style motor mount pattern or the late mounts 3 bolt only style?

Both sides are 5 holes drilled and tapped.

['ol Pinion head]

That's great, makes it much easier to bolt into your '71 1/2 GT-37

When you get a chance, coulld you relay the alpha numeric 4 digit date code on the block back by the distributor?

[79 Phoenix]

Originally Posted by 'ol Pinion head

That's great, makes it much easier to bolt into your '71 1/2 GT-37

When you get a chance, coulld you relay the alpha numeric 4 digit date code on the block back by the distributor?

Code looks like A156 January 15, 1976?

[79 Phoenix]

The work continues! Cleaned, wire brushed, primed, painted firewall, heater box and pedals under driver side dash. Replaced heater core and blower motor, pedal bushings and connecting hardware. Also installed oil, water temp and volt gauges and ran tubing and wiring out through firewall grommet.

Installed new master cylinder and clutch rod boot.

Radiator support mounting holes were completely rotted out on both sides. After careful measurements, I used big washers with the right sized holes and had them welded in. I have test fitted and it is very closely lined up. I may need to oval out the mounting holes a little to provide move side to side adjustment. Also need to finish cleaning and painting radiator support.

After going round and round (no pun intended) on which flywheel to buy, I decided to use the original flywheel. To do that, I needed the spacer ring from Butler to make up for the 1/4" smaller register hole difference on my 76 engine. Flywheel is currently at machine shop where they will insert and spot weld the spacer, resurface and balance the flywheel.

Next, after brake and fuel line installation come the gas tank, rear springs and shocks.

[79 Phoenix]

Well things are moving along slowly but surely. Gas line and brake line in (except across rear axle). Steering box and tie rods in and rear springs and shocks in. Rear brakes in. Next is gas tank. It's nice to be finally putting more of the new parts on!

[79 Phoenix]

Finally getting to the transmission. Opened it up today and it looks great! Also minimum end play on input shaft. I fished a magnet down inside and just a few tiny filings... almost like dust. I'm not surprised because the car, to this point, has only been driven by the original owner--a Catholic priest who didn't abuse the car. I will continue the cleanup , replace side cover gasket, rear seal and "o" ring in bearing retainer. Once clean it will get a paint job.
I will also clean up the Hurst shifter and replace a couple of the bushings and all the clips.

Also got front brake hoses on, tightened steering linkage and installed cotter pins and installed gas tank--not as easy as I expected (but what is?).