[joepiscitella]

I have been folowing a checklist to remove the front suspension and got stuck on the coil spring removal. I went to auto zone and got a coil compresser and I couldn't get it to fit into where I had removed the shock. So I went to Auto Zone and got their coil compressor kit and basically had the same problem. The only way I could get it up into the coil spring was to remove the hooks before putting it up into the coil. Then I tried to screw the hooks back on to the compressor and there wasn't enough room to get the bolt back in. So I amd kinda stuck. I have read about people using a chain and I am thinking that is my last option. If that is it can someone please tell me if they chained it in two position or one and if you used the frame around the upper control arm. THANKS

[joepiscitella]

I have been folowing a checklist to remove the front suspension and got stuck on the coil spring removal. I went to auto zone and got a coil compresser and I couldn't get it to fit into where I had removed the shock. So I went to Auto Zone and got their coil compressor kit and basically had the same problem. The only way I could get it up into the coil spring was to remove the hooks before putting it up into the coil. Then I tried to screw the hooks back on to the compressor and there wasn't enough room to get the bolt back in. So I amd kinda stuck. I have read about people using a chain and I am thinking that is my last option. If that is it can someone please tell me if they chained it in two position or one and if you used the frame around the upper control arm. THANKS

[4SLASH6]

I proly diferant than most, but do not like to be near stored energy,as in coil spring comp etc... if you have the motor in the car,I have always just lifted from lower control arm with floor jack,then loosen upper bal joint a few turns, bust upper ball joint with bfh & joint splitter, then remove nut from joint completely, lower jack slowly, if spring dont fall out stick a crow bar in there pry your done. done this way to many times this year, if you got the proper tools out, 50 min in & out.

[joepiscitella]

thanks for the feedback. if the engine is out (which it is) does that change your plan? again thanks

[chipster]

If you are not planning to ever use the springs again you can heat them up red hot with an acetylene torch in a couple of spots to take the pressure off.

[4SLASH6]

sorry joe, did not know motor was out,..much riskier,. there are others herethat can help along that line.

[78 GHOST]

Joe, you'll recognize these photos as I also have a '70. I credit Larry Navarro for sharing this tip with me on spring removal. The idea is to insert the threaded portion of the compressor down through the shock opening at the top of the frame. This way, it doesn't matter if you have the engine in or out.. you're using the frame as one half of your spring compressor, to me that is twice as safe.

In any event, here are some pics to document the process..

First, let's confirm this is your compressor:

[78 GHOST]

Remove the sliding set of hooks. Drop the threaded rod down the shock opening.

Also note the threaded hooks are of differing length.. this accounts for the staggered heights of the coil where the hook grabs it.

You must insert the hooks from the opening in the lower control arm, sideways, up into the coil. Then orient the hooks, and lift the center portion to mate with the threaded rod.

[78 GHOST]

Here's the shock opening

[78 GHOST]

Drop down the threaded rod, with a stack of large washers. You must use a number of washers to prevent tool and frame damage. I like to grease them up and then use Silicone Spray lubricant as I work. DO NOT use an air tool on this.

[78 GHOST]

And here, I'm demonstrating exactly what NOT to do, note the long hook is pointed forward and on the lowest portion of the threaded rod.

You should orient the hooks approximately 90 degrees to the long axis of the car. Also, move the threaded hooks UP about 1/2 way on the threaded rod.

You see, as I was trying to unload the spring, I ran out of threaded rod and had to loosen everything up, relocate the hooks, and try again. Yippee!! ...NOT

[78 GHOST]

Here's the Armstrong method at work.

Did I mention no impact tools? Just checking to see if you're still awake.

[mothermuxer]

NOt sure about your manufacturer of the tool, but I read on the safety sheet not to use any impact tools, as it will create extra heat. I had one of these strip out while using a plain ol' 1/2" drive... NOT fun. Threw out those underpants!

Anyways, I've done this a few times (not because I enjoy it...). As far as getting the hooks thru the spring, it's just trial & error, and playing with it. Be sure to lube the thread each time you use it. Use some good moly lube. And ALWAYS US A CHAIN! Trust me, if/when that spring compressor craps out, you'll be glad. BE SAFE!!!!
-My 2 cents

[Ken K]

I only use the spring compresser to install the springs, not to remove them. Sometimes you get slag or something stuck in the shock hole and you need to clean it before you install the spring compressor. You can remove the springs without the engine in it. Jack the car up off the ground, put something under the front crossmember to keep the front end up. Put a floor jack under the lower control arm and jack the car up high enough to clear what ever is under the crossmember. Stand in the engine compartment and remove the upper ball joint nut with a 3/4" wrench. It might make a popping noise when you undo the nut but I have never had a spring come loose, they always get hung up in the lower spring pocket and you will need to pry them out. The car might lift slightly when you undo the ball joint nut, sometimes nothing happens. Lower the jack and use a pry bar to remove the spring.

[Ken K]

To install the springs, use a tool like is shown. Put the rod through the shock hole and screw on the bottom hooks just enough to cover the threads. Use a rubber band around the hooks to keep them together. Push the spring up through the hooks until it's in the upper spring pocket and turn the spring until it stops. When you install the hooks on the coil, you want them facing the spindle. Only compress the spring enough to clear the lower spring pocket. Put a floor jack under the lower control arm and jack it up slightly. Use a pry bar to seat the spring in the lower control arm. Once the spring is seated, jack the car up with the jack under the lower control arm. Crank down on the spring compresser and install the spindle and tighten the ball joint nuts.

[joepiscitella]

Mucho THANKS to all the response. I was able to get the spring compressor in using the method shown above and that worked great for me. I also put the jack under the control arm and slowly use it to take the pressure off until the arm and coil were loose. Success! The coil is out and the upper and lower arms are off! THANKS to everyone who posted and help us get this accomplished!

On to the next step...

[wlpsyp]

Amanda started her re-assembly of the front end today. I think we are going to try matt's way of putting them in. Seems like a easy way to do it versus using both ends of the coil compressor.

Here is a pic of what Amanda got done today. It is pretty bad I dont get to turn any wrenches

Bill

[Ken K]

I only use the bottom hooks. I don't know why they have the top hooks, I don't think you could get them to work if you wanted to. Get the pry bar ready, you will need it.

[wlpsyp]

When we took out the coils we used both hooks as shown in the above picture. Worked good, but took some time getting them in and seated right. I like the idea of one hook and going through the top to help compress the spring to get it in correctly. Only disadvantage I see is if you do not put the hook high enough up on the coil, when you go to release it you may run out of room as Matt stated. We will see as we are going to try and do one tomorrow night after work

Ken why the pry bar?

Bill

[Ken K]

When you compress the spring, it won't be stait up and down. You will need to use the pry bar to get the spring to seat in the lower control arm pocket. I thread the bottom hooks on to the rod and use a rubber band to keep the hooks closed, then put the spring in place, turn it until it stops and then install the bottom hooks on the spring. The hooks should be facing the spindle and crossmember so it pulls the spring in when you tighten it.