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#21
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I like the alum. look . I'm not leaving car outside or driving a lot in bad weather
I have washed alum. parts with wheel cleaner . That contains a bit of acid that cleans aluminum well. Don't over do the acid though if you mix your own muriatic acid |
The Following User Says Thank You to dld For This Useful Post: | ||
#22
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Took a needle scaler to the faces on heads on the smooth surfaces (exterior) to look cast and painted them with catalyzed paint. They have held up excellent.
Paul |
#23
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The only things on my motor that will be aluminum are the heads. I'm painting them blue. To me the pontiac metallic blue is the most beautiful engine color ever. Plus I want as close to stock look as possible. But that's me. I say finish it the way you like.
Good looking motors in this thread too, BTW...
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70 TA, 467 cid IAII, Edelbrock D-port heads, 9.94:1, Butler HR 236/242 @ .050, 520/540 lift, 112 LSA, Ray Klemm calibrated Q-jet, TKX (2.87 1st/.81 OD), 3.31 rear https://youtube.com/shorts/gG15nb4FWeo?feature=share |
#24
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Blue for me...aluminum IAII
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"If the best Mustang is the Camaro, the best Camaro is actually the Firebird" David Zenlea |
The Following User Says Thank You to Gator67 For This Useful Post: | ||
#25
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Another vote for painting the aluminum parts engine color. It's a more classy look, IMO. That said, I don't find the appearance of aluminum parts unappealing - I just like the stock'ish look a bit more. It's always in style.
What I really don't care for in the engine bay is what I refer to as Jegs Syndrome. Sometimes you see owners who buy every possible polished or chrome doodad that they can get their hands on, from pulleys and belt systems, to brake boosters and master cylinders, to plug wire separators, to flexible chrome radiator hoses, and so on. Not my cup of tea.
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1966 Pontiac GTO (restoration thread) 1998 BMW 328is (track rat) 2023 Subaru Crosstrek Limited (daily) View my photos: Caught in the Wild |
#26
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That's the look that I'm going to do on my new all-aluminum road race engine. I love the factory look, the silver blue is terrific and I want it to have a bit of a sleeper vibe. My garage is unheated so it's also a concern for bare aluminum to get oxidized.
Eric
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"Everybody has a plan until they get punched in the mouth" noted philosopher Mike Tyson Life begins at the end of your comfort zone. “The mind, once stretched by a new idea, never returns to its original dimensions.” |
The Following User Says Thank You to Elarson For This Useful Post: | ||
#27
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Quote:
PSST VID....don't forget to tap the front 2 oil galley holes 3/8 NPT... |
#28
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My shop is not and with the Houston humidity condensing in the shop I think it is worse than if they were outdoors!
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Skip Fix 1978 Trans Am original owner 10.99 @ 124 pump gas 455 E heads, NO Bird ever! 1981 Black SE Trans Am stockish 6X 400ci, turbo 301 on a stand 1965 GTO 4 barrel 3 speed project 2004 GTO Pulse Red stock motor computer tune 13.43@103.4 1964 Impala SS 409/470ci 600 HP stroker project 1979 Camaro IAII Edelbrock head 500" 695 HP 10.33@132 3595lbs |
#29
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This is really only a mental exercise but I've wondered if it would be possible to anodize the aluminum parts in Pontiac blue...I think anodizing can be done in most any color, but it probably wouldn't be practical to spend the time and effort required to come up with the correct shade.
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#30
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Anodizing of cast aluminum is VERY tricky and will depend on the die cast alloys used. In addition the quality of the die casting is critical to achieving a good anodized finish. The basic problem is that aluminum castings have a high percentage of non-aluminum material in them and only the aluminum portion anodizes so discoloration and blotchiness is often inescapable.
More often than not aluminum extrusion alloys are used for decorative anodizing. Also color variation in finished products can be complex. .
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'70 TA / 505 cid / same engine but revised ( previous best 10.63 at 127.05 ) Old information here: http://www.hotrod.com/articles/0712p...tiac-trans-am/ Sponsor of the world's fastest Pontiac powered Ford Fairmont (engine) 5.14 at 140 mph (1/8 mile) , true 10.5 tire, stock type suspension https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qDoJnIP3HgE |
#31
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And put at least one head bolt in place each side. No way would I have dropped a manifold in place trusting just the short dowel pins. Wouldn’t want a $1K + head hitting the floor!
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#32
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Quote:
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Jeff |
#33
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Painted the cast iron and steel parts metallic blue. Used Eastwood diamond clear on the bare aluminum parts.
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#34
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I love the look of the block, heads, timing cover, and water pump in blue and aluminum/chrome/black everywhere else!
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#35
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I am about to fit edelbrock heads, i am planning to paint the whole engine. I am going with bill Hirch Engine enamel, but should i primer the cast iron first or the alu heads or both?
Maybe just apply enamel to bare iron and alu. I did som youtubing and came across uncle Tony's garage and he prepped the block by using mapp gass torch and forcing out all moisture, you could see the block change color to a much ligther tone. Oh by the way i will not torch my alu heads! dont worry.
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Murphy's law - "Anything that can go wrong will go wrong". -469 ,Butler 310+ Eheads, Hurricane intake portmatched by butler, Butler roller 230/236 @0.50 112 LSA, Johnson lifters, pypes 2 1/2" exhaust, 3.42 yukon duragrip lsd, holley sniper efi, hyperfuel efi tank +++ |
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