[footjoy]

I am putting my 400 back together. I got the short block back from machinist and I have put the heads on.

Todays question is I have a valley pan that has surface rust on the underside. I know you can't sand blast this. if I clean it up with scotch brite do I just cover it with oil to not any more. I saw some for sale that were painted on both sides.

Whats the best way to stop surface rust before motor gets running?

Thanks

Greg

[STEELCITYFIREBIRD]

Is it clean....very very clean inside?

Flash rusted or scale? Picture?

Skip paint, coat with oil if clean...no rust/crud inside. Can be a big source of contamination on a fresh engine.

I like to put oil in a fully assembled engine that is going to sit, and turn it upside down for a few minutes, then stand it back to normal, turning in same direction all the time to coat all surfaces.

HTH

[steve25]

Get some kerosene and gloves and soak the scotch brite in it thenwipe the rusted area and it will remove enough of the rust to not have to worry further about it .

[77 TRASHCAN]

WD 40 will work in place of kerosene, scotch brite it to death, y it will work fine. Paint inside an engine is a no-no for me...don't want it going through the oil pump...

Most important on the valley pan is cleanliness INSIDE of it, as Steelcity mentioned. Make sure no crud is inside the baffles area.

[Stuart]

Be sure to rinse it well afterwards, Scotchbrite does contain abrasive materials that can be left behind so you want to remove any residue.

[Paul E]

Drill the spot welds clean and plug weld back together. If not get a new one. The only other thing I would try is baking it and have the ash fall out. Not worth the money and getting something dirty in a new engine. I drilled mine and rewelded. Also modified it for hyd roller clearance. Was a pain as the steel is very thin. But it did turn out nice.


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[footjoy]

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[footjoy]

I am sending this from my phone, so there it is there is nothing rattling Inside. I was told it was baked.


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[b-man]

Get a fine stainless steel wire brush and work over the bottom side, then wipe it down with mineral spirits. Paint the top side after masking the bottom side of you plan to paint individual pieces. Using a fine wire brush won’t introduce abrasive grit. Stuff some paper towels in the rectangular opening before you start.

That rust buildup is so minor that it will clean up easily, a little rust left after you’re done won’t hurt anything.

Wipe the bottom side with clean motor oil and put it in a plastic bag. Spray some WD40 inside it if you feel the need, store it inside the house if you think it’s moist enough in the garage to begin rusting again.

Inside looks nice and tidy already.

[abefromen]

I did all the usual recommended cleaning to my valley when I was putting my engine together last year including soaking in solvent for days on end. Thought I had it very clean and good to go.

Nope.

When I went into it with the bore scope it still had crud in the corners and sides.

Had to take it apart to clean and reweld back together.

[flat-bill]

I needed a pan to clear the '65 tripower intake. Bought a used one supposed to be cleaned. Must have been soaked a long time. No hint of oil residue inside. Looked good outside and peeking through the openings in it. I decided to open it up just to be sure. Cut out about 20 spot welds and opened it up. Nasty inside. I scrubbed out the gunk and spot welded it back together. Either get a new one or open it up. Billk

[footjoy]

Engine lifting lug

I know where the front one goes is there a back one, and where does it go?

Thanks


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[TedRamAirII]

Built into the block, left rear corner.

[footjoy]

Originally Posted by TedRamAirII

Built into the block, left rear corner.

Shame on me I have had that out of that car for 4 months and never noticed that there.

Thanks

Greg

[77 TRASHCAN]

What heads did you go with on the new mill???

[footjoy]

I put some 13s with 78 cc chambers with a summit cam and Johnson lifters. I already owned the cam.

Thanks
Greg


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