[RocktimusPryme]

I’m not asking which product to use. That’s been covered.

I’m asking more how to do it. The hood on my 62 has come completely detached from the webbing and oil cans badly. I’ve attached two pictures. One is the hood sitting ambient. The other is me pressing down on the surface of the hood so that the original gluing meets.

I assume that position with the glue pressed back together is where I would want to be as that’s how it left the assembly line. How do I get the hood sheet metal to stay in place aside from me just holding it down until the new glue/caulk cures?

Or am I overthinking this and I should just remove all the old stuff and re-caulk it with it sitting where it wants to without me pressing on it or otherwise trying to hold it down.

[webfoot]

My 62 cat had the same problem. I chunked as much of the old stuff out of there as I could and used some black 3M goop I shot out of a pneumatic caulk gun. No more oil canning.

[Scarebird]

Sandbags?

[RocktimusPryme]

Originally Posted by Scarebird

Sandbags?

That’s not a bad idea.

I’m mostly curious from other who have done it before, especially any professional body guys if it’s worth trying to weight it down. Or do they just put the new glue in and call it a day.

I’m also curious how it was done at the factory.

[tjs72lemans]

On my 72 Lemans, I chose to just apply the material without trying to influence the surface. I don't think from the factory these two surfaces were a snug fit everywhere to each other. If you try weighing it down for a tight fit, it raises the chance of it coming apart down the road from heat and vibration anyway.

[Joe]

Following this thread for sure. Will be removing the inner structure on a 67 GTO hood later today. To fix some high/low spots that occurred when I had a resto shop weld in a patch where the hood tach was.
Which you cannot get at with the inner structure in place. Then will have to re-glue it back in place prior to welding. What I have done prior to drilling out the spot welds was to put some 10/32 machine screws on each side of the hood to locate it in it's original position. Might even answer whether I have to put some pressure on it or not. Thanks

[Flynbye]

Back when I worked at a Pontiac dealer, many late 80’s Bonneville’s had a hood flutter problem. The foam adhesive separated just like yours.
There was a service bulletin that had us use a two part foam adhesive to repair. We just cleaned out as much as we could without damaging paint/primer, reapplied the adhesive, tripped the hood latch to the closed position, set the hood against the latch and taped the front sides of the hood to the fenders. Used 2” masking tape, tape one side tight, then have a helper apply pressure on the other side while taping it. Let it sit overnight and it was good to go.
I used the same process when I restored my ‘68.

[bill ryder]

factory built the inner structure, then applied the mastic kisses (that is what they look like) in the correct places, then placed the hood skin in the correct position and sent it all thru a curing oven.

"Bill"!

[RocktimusPryme]

I got my SEM anti flutter foam, and the little gun to apply it (They are proud of those things). I was looking at it closer last night. Applying it without putting weight on the hood is not an open. While the hood looks perfectly fine from the top at a casual glance. The center of the hood where there is the medial ridge that runs down, is a good 1/2" separated from the webbing. That gap is too big to fill. The sides arent separated as far because the hood has a bit of a curve to it.

That center area also requires quite a bit of pressure to close the gap, so while I liked the masking tape idea, I just don't think I can apply enough pressure with the tape to close it. I did some googling and tried to find that service bulletin but couldn't.

I think I'm going to go get some bags of potting soil (because Ill use those afterwards and they wont go to waste) and try to strap them to the top of the hood and see if I cant get the whole thing to match the depth of the old glue/caulk.

The only other thing I could think is to try and not do it all at once. Start from the outside where the gap is less and glue it back together. Basically take it one hole in the webbing at a time. In theory by the time you get to the middle maybe it will be pulled closer. But I want to see how close I can get the whole thing with the potting soil first.

I will report back how it goes.

[Lemans64]

Any updates on this? Needing to redo it on my 64, had a spare hood repainted, and asked the guy to reseal the inside webbing. He painted the hood Hotrod Black
as asked to but did not do the reseal. Never noticed till I got it home. Hood was all wrapped up. Did not pay the guy a lot, but kinda pissed as the same time.
So now having to regale the inside without messing up the paint too much could be a Pain in the arse. The guy had the hood for 3 years so just wanted my hood back.
Which Product are you using?

[mrennie]

I used 3M 04274 NVH foam. Requires a special application gun. Expensive but quality product.

[RocktimusPryme]

Originally Posted by Lemans64

Any updates on this? Needing to redo it on my 64, had a spare hood repainted, and asked the guy to reseal the inside webbing. He painted the hood Hotrod Black
as asked to but did not do the reseal. Never noticed till I got it home. Hood was all wrapped up. Did not pay the guy a lot, but kinda pissed as the same time.
So now having to regale the inside without messing up the paint too much could be a Pain in the arse. The guy had the hood for 3 years so just wanted my hood back.
Which Product are you using?

https://youtu.be/9JM_PinNbWg

Sorry I just saw this, but I did a video on it.

I was successful, but I had some struggles. Mostly because the working time on that SEM foam I used was super short. BUT at the end of the day I was successful, worked like a charm even if it was a hassle and not the prettiest.

Here is the one big thing I would say that's not in the video that I kinda pondered about after. If you want a prettier job, take the hood off. I think a lot of the fights I had was because I was fighting gravity. If you take the hood off and put it upside down on some sawhorses or something and work so the tip of the applicator is pointed down instead of up, I think it will go much much easier.

I might opt for the 3m stuff if I did it again, just to see if it doesn't clog the needles so damned fast. The biggest bummer is the gun is kinda expensive and there doesn't seem to be much of a way around it if you are using expanding anti flutter foam.

[Lemans64]

Thanks for the tips and video. Have not had time to watch yet but will before I proceed, Thanks again. Hood is off car so will put it upside down on appropriate device.

[400 4spd.]

I do my hoods standing upright and leaning against a wall. That way there is no load or pressure on either the skin or the structure.

[RocktimusPryme]

In retrospect anything would probably be easier to get a clean job that standing directly under it like I did.