[4dblnkldude]

I have a 69 GTO that I've been sorting out. I noticed that the driveshaft yoke was not properly in the rear cups. So I began to unbolt it and discovered the incorrect u joint (1330 I believe on that end, it needs a 1310...correct?) OK its gotta come out. Took all the bolts out and I just figured maybe a couple little pries and out it would come. But no, no matter how much I pry it wount come out. I'm flexing the crossmember. The shaft was an original auto one at 55 5/8" long. The car was originally an auto. Is it to far in the trans? The combo is 400 (original) a what I believe is saginaw 4 speed and a 12 bolt rear. Could the splines in the trans be twisted? I have never had one like this. Whats going on? Thank you in advance!

[tstroud]

Pontiac used a 3R u joint in those cars. Chevy used a 1310 joint in a lot of their cars. My GTO has a Muncie 4 speed with a Chevy slip yoke so I had to get a 3R to 1310 combination joint to connect them.
The slip yoke should move smoothly in the transmission.

[rwfisher]

Sounds like you have a mixed bag of components here, your indicating a 12 bolt rear, non 3R U joints and drive shaft is??? It’s possible the entire length was too long and jamb your yoke into the trans. A couple of smacks with a large dead blow should knock it out, if not you have bigger issues….

[chiphead]

1330 and 3R are the same cross widths. The difference is 3Rs are held in with inside clips or injected plastic, depending on year. The 1330 uses the external clips to hold the caps into the yokes. The "big cap" 1330 has the same cap diameter as the 3R. I've run a GM 3R U-joint with a Ford 9" rear that is designed for a big cap 1330, so I know it'll fit.

Is the rear U-joint stuck in the rear end or is the front trans yoke not going far enough into the trans to remove d-shaft? Not sure where the hang up is?

[4dblnkldude]

Is the rear U-joint stuck in the rear end or is the front trans yoke not going far enough into the trans to remove d-shaft? Not sure where the hang up is?[/QUOTE]


I got the shaft ut of the rear, pushed in the yoke about 1/2", so its loose on the rear. I just figured maybe the grease and grime was holding the shaft from going in more. I cleaned all that off and I have 1/2" of the yoke showing but need like maybe 3/4" to get it out. I geuss my questions should be how deep is a saginaw for a yoke to go? I will get it out and can, I just want to know whats wrong ya know? I've never had this issue.

[zippy]

Originally Posted by 4dblnkldude

I got the shaft ut of the rear, pushed in the yoke about 1/2", so its loose on the rear. I just figured maybe the grease and grime was holding the shaft from going in more. I cleaned all that off and I have 1/2" of the yoke showing but need like maybe 3/4" to get it out. I geuss my questions should be how deep is a saginaw for a yoke to go? I will get it out and can, I just want to know whats wrong ya know? I've never had this issue.

My TA is like that. I accidentally made the driveshaft a bit too long. I wanted max spline engagement on the TH00 But, now to install/remove. Only way is to let the axle hang. jack stands on body, not on axle. This allows little more room

[4dblnkldude]

Well I beat the hell out of the trans u joint and got it out last night. Someone put washers in the yoke! WHAT THE F? It was also rusted a bit to the trans. I'm gonna put some new u joints in it and roll with it. Thank you for the info about the needed u joint!

[VCho455]

I recommend inspecting that yoke very carefully. The PO may have damaged it like the PO of my Suburban did. The tab was mashed and the U-joint no longer centered itself correctly and caused vibration issues.

First photo is the damaged tab. It allowed the U-joint to be off center by 3 to 4 thousands which was definitely noticeable when driving.

[b-man]

After that adventure I’d be replacing the yoke, calculating the proper driveshaft length and shortening it accordingly. Have the driveline shop balance the entire assembly.

[4dblnkldude]

Originally Posted by b-man

After that adventure I’d be replacing the yoke, calculating the proper driveshaft length and shortening it accordingly. Have the driveline shop balance the entire assembly.

Absolutely! It is the correct length. And a new yoke and balance job for sure! Thank you! All you guys I may have jumped the gun on starting a thread on this but I try to figure out as much as I can before doing so.

[HWYSTR455]

Throw the shaft, slip yoke, and diff yoke in the trash and start over. With that much monkeying around who knows what else is going on.

You buy all new you can get the shaft made to proper length, and it's way safer than a 50+ year old one. Makes zero sense to me when people try to shorten a 50+ year old shaft, cheaper or close in cost to just have a new one made.

And it won't have much of a failure risk either.

I bet the bushing in the tail housing is shot too.


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