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Old 11-05-2010, 11:25 PM
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455Grandville 455Grandville is offline
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Question Anyone here build model cars ? (advice needed)

I built this old '65 Bonnie I built with my 5 yr old son that I had laying around unbuilt from the 80s
I'd rather have my kid doing this teaching him hand and eye cordination vs. videogames
Anyway, I have a few I built back then that were rattlecanned and wanted to know if anyone knows a good method to remove the paint so I can airbrush them, which looks much better. The pics suck but it looks pretty nice in person -
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Last edited by 455Grandville; 03-19-2012 at 05:12 PM.
  #2  
Old 11-05-2010, 11:41 PM
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Been a while for me Darby but I've bulilt a few..mostly NASCAR & drag stuff..
I would think removal would be mission impossible !!! Scuff & shoot or seal it and then shoot it...JMO...

I used use a heat lamp to get paint to lay down....looked great !!
Just had to be careful you didn't melt the model.....

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Old 11-05-2010, 11:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 60man View Post
Been a while for me Darby but I've bulilt a few..mostly NASCAR & drag stuff..
I would think removal would be mission impossible !!! Scuff & shoot or seal it and then shoot it...JMO...

I used use a heat lamp to get paint to lay down....looked great !!
Just had to be careful you didn't melt the model.....
Crap ! Have you seen the prices of some of the new ones ? The old ones I have from the 80s are now fetching stupid money on Ebay.
Many of the new ones are $20 + at hobby stores now

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'79 455 Trans Am
‘69 Camaro SS 396/375 (owned since ‘88)
‘22 Toyota Sequoia V8
‘23 Lexus LS500 awd
‘95 Ford F-super duty 4wd 7.3 p-stroke
& countless Jeeps & off road vehicles.
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Old 11-05-2010, 11:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 455Grandville View Post
Crap ! Have you seen the prices of some of the new ones ? The old ones I have from the 80s are now fetching stupid money on Ebay.
Many of the new ones are $20 + at hobby stores now
Yep....I have a few I'm hanging on to or may build over the winter if evry get my race car done up....fat chance on that...

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Do it now fool! Life is short.

69 Grand Prix/3163lbs / IAII 535 w/ Tiger heads by Gaydosh....9.35@ 144 so far.. through mufflers. 1.26 60'.
Going back to track with pump gas engine....
My 60 Ventura retired to street/strip duty..
  #5  
Old 11-06-2010, 12:13 AM
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67TIGER 67TIGER is offline
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Default RE: Model Paint Removal

Quote:
Originally Posted by 455Grandville View Post
Wanted to know if anyone knows a good method to remove paint.
I was looking over at some modelling sites and most agree that Castrol Super Clean will strip the paint off without damaging the plastic. You will need a container that you can submerge the parts in and be able to seal it to prevent evaporation.

Some others also recommend using DOT3 or 4 brake fluid.
Just a heads up; both of these chemicals WILL damage chrome and clear parts!

When you get the parts stripped, give them a good warm water soaking with dishwashing liquid to remove all the cleaning residue.

Depending on what kind of paint you have used, you may have to soak the parts a few hours or even overnight. Just keep an eye on them and you should have no trouble.


Last edited by 67TIGER; 11-06-2010 at 12:14 AM. Reason: spelling
  #6  
Old 11-06-2010, 12:35 AM
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I used to use easy off oven cleaner. You have to get the strong original formula, not the easy on the nose stuff.

Now you used to be able to do this after a couple days old paint job and it would lift it no problem without damaging the plastic.

For paint that has been on a while, I don't know. You can give it a try on a model that you don't care for as much. I wouldn't let the plastic model soak with the oven cleaner over night, because over time I would think the oven cleaner would effect the plastic and soften it.

Now the other thing you can do is scuff the model with high grit sand paper, maybe 400-600. If you still have molded details showing very clearly, an airbrush paint job will not lose much detail as long as you keep the coats down to a minimum.

Mark

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  #7  
Old 11-06-2010, 04:26 AM
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I read that toilet bowl cleaners will strip paint also.Never tried it though.

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Old 11-06-2010, 09:11 AM
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Yes, the original Easy-Off works well. The age of the paint shouldn't matter. It should do its work within 10 or 15 minutes, you will probably have to scrub in the tight spots with an old toothbrush. Wear some rubber gloves, that oven cleaner will do a number on your hands.

  #9  
Old 11-06-2010, 10:11 AM
26667 26667 is offline
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Pollt-S Lift-off is a product you can find in hobby shops. It's made to do this. I believe I used Pine-Sol straight with good results also. Joe

  #10  
Old 11-06-2010, 11:19 AM
My19GTO67 My19GTO67 is offline
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Poly-s lift off is the safest. Easy off works great as well as super clean. Most well stocked hobby shops will carry the poly-s line.
Bruce

  #11  
Old 11-06-2010, 12:16 PM
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Ron Landis Ron Landis is offline
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Wink I have...

a glass dish with a stainless removeable "strainer" and a stainless lid that seals...from a doctor's office to keep sterile instruments in, I believe. I'll check if a 1/24th scale Bonny will fit in it. You are welcome to it as I have never found a need for it. Was gonna use it for cleaning carb parts...as that vapor is pretty nasty. Let me know if interested. Sounds like it would suit your needs and be safe to use indoors. Ron

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  #12  
Old 11-06-2010, 02:09 PM
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I have used brake fluid with great success. That and an old tooth brush works well. Just must wash with good soapy water when done or paint will craze.
Again, you must have something to submerge the body in for best results. I have used old 1 gallon containers like antifreeze and just cut the top down to where it is managable.

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  #13  
Old 11-06-2010, 07:51 PM
Cammer-6 Cammer-6 is offline
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I was going to suggest an air eraser would be like a miniature blasting rig.
Or you could make an elcheapo soda blaster out of an air blow off tool and a box of baking soda.

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