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Timing/Tuning/Engine temps - Thread for giving and getting tips
ok, so based on the 2,300+ views and 150 replies to my last thread, I'm starting this one. That thread evolved from what I thought was a low oil PSI issue to a tuning thread. Long story short: suddenly higher engine temps were causing lower oil pressure and that had me freaked out. That lead to a timing/tuning discussion that I am finally bringing to it's own thread to help me and many others. If you decide to go back to that link, you may want to start at the end and work you way forward to skip the oil related issues/comments.
So, here are my basics now: My engine generally runs around 180. Cooler when outside temps are cool. Under extreme conditions in high summer, maybe it hit 195*. I changed from a Holley DP to a brand new Cliff Ruggles Qjet and also started messing with vacuum advance. This started sending my engine temps soaring and my oil pressure plummeting. So let's get back to basics. Here are my timing stats: I was running 14* initial. My mechanical curve looks like this: 14* @ 700 RPM 22 @ 1,500 30 @ 2,000 36 @ 3,500 (and that was as high as the timing went) I had added a Crane adjustable vacuum advance and was really adding a ton of timing, about 22* on MVA. The more timing I added, the cooler the car ran, but I was getting surging at a steady 3,000 RPM on the highway only with vacuum advance connected (either ported or MVA). So today as temps ran up to 210* on the highway on an 84* day, the car was actually running well aside from the temps. So I came home and adjusted timing as follows: 10* @ 700 RPM 20 @ 1,500 27 @ 2,000 35 @ 3,500 (plus or minus a degree) With vacuum advance it's as follows (I did MVA at idle to get a reading but ran it ported): 22* @ 700 36 @ 1,500 42 @ 2,000 45 @ 3,000 and above Note that when I drove it hard, lots of WOT blasts without vacuum advance, it ran well both starting at 14* and 10*, so I left it at 10. I can't hot-start the car with more than 14* initial even with my mini starter without lots of kickback. I adjusted the APT on the carb per Cliff's advice, turning it CCW 1/2 turn from where he set it, and with the 10* initial, my surge problem is cured as far as I can tell. I get little to no ping at partial throttle. It sounded like no ping, but MAYBE there was a tiny bit if I really lugged it around. The car idles really smoothly now at 10* with ported advance. It also idles smoothly with MVA. The only problem now is that the temps were soaring up to 210* all day! HELP! Suggestions welcome from pros. And as we clearly saw in the last thread, there is a big need for this advice. My engine specs (receipts here (just ignore some of the incorrect info on the Warren receipts about engine specs) and summary of the car here): 469 cid Butler stroker kit (17cc dish pistons), 9.3:1 CR. #46 heads worked with Ferrea Valves (Int: 2.11; Exh: 1.77) flowing 255 CFM. XE274 cam plus 1.65 rockers. Intake: Edelbrock Prototype P4B-Q4 Extensively Ported. Aluminum radiator and electric fan. So, what do you think of my timing curve? What can I do to get more timing in (which lowers engine temps)? I'm running Evan's Waterless Coolant so I'm not so worried about running 210* in an emergency, but clearly the engine was running at 180* before and will if I throw tons of timing at it, but then it surges both clod and at steady 3,000 RPM. Ideas? Oh, and these are my distributer springs and harmonic balancer:
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Adam __________________ 1964 LeGTO 469, M21, 3.42 __________________ Sold: 1968 Pontiac LeMans Convertible See it go HERE Last edited by AdamIsAdam; 05-17-2015 at 10:16 PM. |
#2
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I thought it would be helpful to carry over a few detailed posts from the other thread:
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Adam __________________ 1964 LeGTO 469, M21, 3.42 __________________ Sold: 1968 Pontiac LeMans Convertible See it go HERE |
#3
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How is your fan being controlled?
What fuel do you run? |
#4
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What's your question? what's your water pump impeller/plate clearance, Clarance?
you have just posted some of the very best tuning advice you could ever expect to get, read it over and over, you already have the answer
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'78 Macho T/A DKM#95, 460cid, SRP pistons, KRE 310 D ports, 3" pypes, Hooker 1 3/4" headers, hydraulic roller, 10" Continental, 3.42 gears 11.5 @117.5mph 3900lbs ([_|_] ##\|/##[_|_]) Last edited by jonmachota78; 05-17-2015 at 10:35 PM. |
The Following User Says Thank You to jonmachota78 For This Useful Post: | ||
#5
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My question is how to tune it to get the temp down like it was before the new carb and timing changes.
I don't think we need to dive too deeply into my cooling system since I can get the temps down by adding a lot of timing but that was causing poor driveability. My two speed electric fan is from a Ford Taurus. It's got a thermostat switch to turn it on around 170 and a manual switch to select the speed. It's working normally. I don't know about my impeller.
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Adam __________________ 1964 LeGTO 469, M21, 3.42 __________________ Sold: 1968 Pontiac LeMans Convertible See it go HERE |
#6
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here ya go:
http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...late+clearance the only problem is, after doing this you will have to send George $1 I believe he takes paypal
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'78 Macho T/A DKM#95, 460cid, SRP pistons, KRE 310 D ports, 3" pypes, Hooker 1 3/4" headers, hydraulic roller, 10" Continental, 3.42 gears 11.5 @117.5mph 3900lbs ([_|_] ##\|/##[_|_]) |
#7
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Drain that Evans Coolant out and replace with water and glycol antifreeze mix (preferably 33% antifreeze, if you're not going to drive it below 15 degrees) and I think your running hot problem will be solved. I tried that Evans and had same symptoms. Went back to water/glycol mix and temps are fine.
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The Following User Says Thank You to 69 Limelight For This Useful Post: | ||
#8
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My reply may have been too brief. If you read up a lot on the Evans Coolant and talk to their techs,you will find that your guage temps will most likely go up but "not to woryy their product is taking more heat out of engine". I didn't like that when I tried it and was trying to eliminate a slight hot weather ping. Evans made that much worse and to bring guage temps down I too had to add timing also, to the point of surge at cruise. I wasn't going to put up with that so I drained the Evans out, put 33% ethylene glycol/distilled water back in, backed my timing down to the tune I had before and the engine was happy with and the guage temps came back down to a level I was comfortable with and never tried Evans again.
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#9
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It's not that Evan's. I do recall what you said about the temps with Evan's, however, I installed the stuff exactly a year ago this week, so the temps were lower all last year even with Evan's
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Adam __________________ 1964 LeGTO 469, M21, 3.42 __________________ Sold: 1968 Pontiac LeMans Convertible See it go HERE |
#10
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Quote:
OK, so in the spirit of tuning, a couple of questions: My understanding was that NOT having enough timing can cause hot engine temps, and plenty of timing helps it run cooler at the risk of possible detonation. What determines the upper limit of advance quantity? Is it determined purely by where ping/detonation start, or would engine temps start to go up again with a healthy amount of advance? I was wondering if the relationship between timing and temperature had a crossover point where too much brought temps back up. And similarly, my understanding is that lean makes it hotter, rich makes it cooler. Does fuel mixture alone make an engine more tolerant of more/less timing?
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"...ridge reamer and ring compressor? Do they have tools like that?" |
#11
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So Adam: You just threw a q-jet on and have no idea on air/fuel ratio! Start with the basics. Get your initial and total timing straightened up and your air/fuel ratio taken care off. You can always add a bit of vacuum advance down the road. 180 temp is great for a Pontiac engine. I find once you start heading over 200 degrees I would get nervous.
Charles
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68 Firebird. IA2 block, 505 cu in, E-head, Solid roller 3650 weight. Reid TH400 4:11 gear. 29" slick. Best so far 10.12@133 mph. 1.43 60 ft. 76 Trans am, TKX .81 o/d, 3.73 Moser rearend, 468 with KRE D-ports, Doug headers, 3" Exh. |
#12
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Quote:
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#13
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Thanks for the input fellas. I always appreciate it. I was trying to avoid adding more variables. The Evan's was installed last May and I never ran hot like this with it. So I'm hesitant to throw it out right now, especially since it won't boil over until 375* as I recall, and there's little to no pressure in the system with it so I'm less likely to blow a hose, even at 210*.
Ben, Good point, especially about the impeller. I was just having a hard time considering new things that were constants. But maybe they were already on the verge of not working before (ie, the impeller issue) and now that I'm tuning more, it's affecting other things like the cooling. I dunno. But I'm willing to rule that out. So I'll go back and re-read 66 pages of impeller chatter (is there a a suggested page to start my reading on that thread?) As for the electric fan, I can't imagine how the fan or it's shroud could hinder highway cooling when the fan is running on high, yet it would sufficiently cool while standing still. Remember, I can manually set the fan to LOW, HIGH, or OFF. It's normally on LOW. In terms of tune, it's running well now, just hot. Idle is smooth, surge is gone, ping is gone, pulls strongly at WOT. So I'll start with the impeller research as I said. Again, if you know what page or post to start on that may shorten my research time, I'd greatly appreciate that info! EDIT: Charles, the Qjet was built by Cliff to my exact engine specs, so it's not like it was an off the shelf unit. He's given me some guidance on what and how to adjust, and maybe I'll dyno it to see the power and also the A/F ratios. I've been planning on doing that this Spring anyway. Thanks, as always,
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Adam __________________ 1964 LeGTO 469, M21, 3.42 __________________ Sold: 1968 Pontiac LeMans Convertible See it go HERE Last edited by AdamIsAdam; 05-18-2015 at 09:31 AM. |
#14
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Everything you need to know is on page 1. Except page 2 tells you where to send the $1.00
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'78 Macho T/A DKM#95, 460cid, SRP pistons, KRE 310 D ports, 3" pypes, Hooker 1 3/4" headers, hydraulic roller, 10" Continental, 3.42 gears 11.5 @117.5mph 3900lbs ([_|_] ##\|/##[_|_]) |
#15
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What he said! Max temp (with calibrated gauge) with 180° thermostat in July with AC on is maybe 185°!
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#16
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Snake oil and snake water is the same thing!
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#17
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LOL. funny stuff. Yes, I saw the Grand Cayman address. Hell, I'll send you TWO dollars if this cures it! (I bet you get that a lot).
The link to buying the right replacement part is bad and I didn't see the actual brand and P/N written that is the preferred pump. Can someone supply that? I'd like to buy the right one as long as I'm taking mine off. (I assume it's prudent to put a new one on as long as I'm taking mine off to check the clearances. Cheap enough). I think I have an 11 hole water pump. This is a hodge-podge of parts that I didn't build, so who knows! Also, what's all that talk about how far on the blade is pressed down onto the shaft? I'm still reading that thread.
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Adam __________________ 1964 LeGTO 469, M21, 3.42 __________________ Sold: 1968 Pontiac LeMans Convertible See it go HERE |
#18
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Summarizing the cooling issue: the cooling system needs to be correct to start. Impeller-to-housing clearance is a BIG part of that. You need to make sure it's correct. Fan fully into the shroud, my opinion, is the next step. Tuning the engine for best efficiency comes next.
George
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"...out to my ol'55, I pulled away slowly, feeling so holy, god knows i was feeling alive"....written by Tom Wait from the Eagles' Live From The Forum |
#19
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ok, so I read some great stuff so far in that thread.
But can anyone please direct me to the correct replacement water pump for an 11 hole pump? The old links from 11 years ago when that thread started are no longer good.
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Adam __________________ 1964 LeGTO 469, M21, 3.42 __________________ Sold: 1968 Pontiac LeMans Convertible See it go HERE Last edited by AdamIsAdam; 05-18-2015 at 01:21 PM. |
#20
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There are NO CORRECT replacement pumps!
Send your old one to The Flying Dutchman for a rebuild. About $85. |
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