Pontiac - Race The next Level

          
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  #21  
Old 09-18-2015, 01:33 PM
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Then u need to have Kauffman handle the issue and go from there.

  #22  
Old 09-18-2015, 02:19 PM
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Yep ANY work on the crank -balancing holes/weld, counterweight work -most places will tell you you are on your own.

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1978 Trans Am original owner 10.99 @ 124 pump gas 455 E heads, NO Bird ever!
1981 Black SE Trans Am stockish 6X 400ci, turbo 301 on a stand
1965 GTO 4 barrel 3 speed project
2004 GTO Pulse Red stock motor computer tune 13.43@103.4
1964 Impala SS 409/470ci 600 HP stroker project
1979 Camaro IAII Edelbrock head 500" 695 HP 10.33@132 3595lbs
  #23  
Old 09-18-2015, 02:53 PM
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Called jeff and he said turn it I didnt even tell him work has been done to it he just said hes had the same problem before

  #24  
Old 09-18-2015, 03:47 PM
mgarblik mgarblik is offline
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I am glad your issue is going to be solved to your satisfaction. This is a perfect example of different ways to get a race engine together. First, the fact that your builder found the problem and refused to use it as-is means they already get high marks from me. As far as using the crank period and staying on a timeline. Probably, Ohio Crankshaft would have replaced it no charge, but it has been worked on some as you indicated. Now the pissing match begins, Ohio Crankshaft blaming whoever cut the counterweights and so forth. And there you are in the middle. I think your solution of having your trusted engine builder grind/polish and fix it to their standards is the best and fastest solution. We have a 3" crank -.030" in the funny car, as long as it's gets enough oil, no problem. If nothing else, when they grind the crank .010, you will gain a tiny bit of fillet radius. It may make the crank stronger.

  #25  
Old 09-18-2015, 07:17 PM
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Just to confirm, I've never had an issue working with Ohio Crankshaft. If something wasn't right, they have always corrected it.

Calvin Hill
Hill Performance
708-250-7420

  #26  
Old 09-18-2015, 07:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom McQueen View Post
Not unusual. We sent my forging (not from Ohio) to mile high crankshaft for the full tune up and re-heat treat. Forgings these days (from whomever) seem to be a crapshoot. If you want perfect, you have to step up to a billet.
X2

Calvin Hill
Hill Performance
708-250-7420

  #27  
Old 09-18-2015, 07:25 PM
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Thing is crank has work done to it as said previous probably a pissing match waiting to happen,


Last edited by stroker461; 09-18-2015 at 07:35 PM.
  #28  
Old 09-18-2015, 08:33 PM
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Billet in my 4.21 stroke 3.0 500 is an Ohio had to be turned for some taper as well as filet was too large for any available bearing. Now Ohio carries some bearings that are supposed to have a little more bevel for larger filet.

On my Eagle 409 4.0 crank one shop said taper would have been OK for them-not my regular shop so it got turned. First shop also had balanced it without checking the rest of the specs so I was stuck with it. Also on it the balancer snout was a hair off and had to get the custom hone to fit hub balancer for it

If you have a good machine shop and good crank guy you have to go by their recommendations especially building one you will lean on and get things straight. It might "do OK" but why take the chance.

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Skip Fix
1978 Trans Am original owner 10.99 @ 124 pump gas 455 E heads, NO Bird ever!
1981 Black SE Trans Am stockish 6X 400ci, turbo 301 on a stand
1965 GTO 4 barrel 3 speed project
2004 GTO Pulse Red stock motor computer tune 13.43@103.4
1964 Impala SS 409/470ci 600 HP stroker project
1979 Camaro IAII Edelbrock head 500" 695 HP 10.33@132 3595lbs
  #29  
Old 09-18-2015, 09:25 PM
mgarblik mgarblik is offline
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Ohio Crankshaft is right here in my backyard. Did not mean to imply they would not help you. They have a solid reputation. I guess more of my point was you can spend an awful lot of time sending race parts back all across the US and it really slows down your build. Plus with Chinese parts, the replacement may be worse or have some other defects to deal with, so why send them back. Had so much trouble with Eagle rods several years ago and got so tired of returning several from every set, I finally got them to send me a bag of dowels so I could just rebuild them myself before use. Now, everyone is happy. That's why it is so imperative to have great machine shop you trust. Sounds like you have one. Good luck.

  #30  
Old 09-18-2015, 09:54 PM
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Your exactly right im just gunna have my buddy keith Swafford turn the crank, which we can fix another issue by doing that because we bought .001 under bearings to get clearances where he wanted them so the crank was on the small side on both the rods and mains ill just leave rods alone and have he turn the mains .010 or shall I say .009 and everything shall be normal again lol your also right about being a great shop, same shop did cage in Dwight's car but was called Evans motorsports at that time, its now called Swafford Competition heres a link check them out. ... https://www.facebook.com/SwaffordCompetition

  #31  
Old 09-19-2015, 08:24 AM
mgarblik mgarblik is offline
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I spent a few minutes looking at the link. Here are a few things that stood out for me in this brief look. 1. A wide variety of different engine projects and processes. 2. Proud enough of their Pontiac work to include pictures of that work. 3. Clean, fairly modern machines and processes. 4. Clearly a race shop, not a street engine rebuild shop by the type of work they show. 5. In house dyno. None of these things guarantee a good shop and there are some small dirty shops with ancient machines that do quality work, but the above items along with good word of mouth results should give you a good feeling about a shop like this. With all that expensive equipment, if they had a bad reputation and did poor work, they would be out of business quickly.

  #32  
Old 09-19-2015, 09:52 AM
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Your exactly right, I've known keith Swafford for years, as said he does alot of work for ProLine as well and we all know that ProLine isnt gunna send there stuff out to a shop that doesn't do quality work, im gunna take the advise given to me and go ahead and have him turn the crank to get everything in shape and pray that this engine makes big power with all the modifications and money I've spent LOL thank you all for your advice i really do appreciate it here's a link to my junk if anyone cares to see lol...... https://m.facebook.com/JacksonRacingTeam

  #33  
Old 09-19-2015, 10:21 AM
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I would try to assemble it and see what happens DURING the attempt??

If you have enough room to get it together it will be a "non-issue". Been down this road numerous times with OEM BBC shafts!

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. Years ago we used many BBC 4.000" stroke new steel shafts. Almost every one had a minimum of .0025" bend in it. As long as the bend didn't interfere with turning it during assembly they ALL worked fine. We contacted GM back then and learned they had gotten this bend during the "Nitriding" process, they also considered it a "non-issue"! I have a 1/2 dozen brand new shafts still in the boxes (BBC #7416) in stock here now, all have that "bend"!

  #34  
Old 09-19-2015, 09:55 PM
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First, cutting the crank is not a bad thing as long as the shop cutting it knows what they are doing, you can get the crank and main tunnel in perfect clearance.

Second, why wouldn't you have sourced the parts from your engine builder?

Calvin Hill
Hill Performance
708-250-7420

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