[General Z]

This engine was rebuilt abotu 4.5 years ago and never ran until now. I am trying to get this car driving. When I started it up, cold start up oil pressure was only about 30 psi, and no oil was getting up to the heads.

I started to worry that I had chevy lifters or something, so I took the intake, valley cover and front cover all off. I was also worried that maybe an oil plug was missing or something. The front oil plugs were fine. I ended up changing the lifters to Rhoads lifters and putting everything back together again with new gaskets.

I changed the oil, with new Rotella T, 15W40, with a bottle of EOS thrown in and poured over the cam and lifters. This engine has never had break-in, just ran for about 5 minutes or so total, since being rebuilt, for the setting of timing and checking of new gauges.

While I had everything torn apart, I also re-located the oil pressure gauge line to the hole by the distributor.

Now, I tried to start it up, and it was very tough to get it started, then I couldn't keep it running, and after it stalled, I couldn't get it restarted.(possibly a weak battery) For the minute or so that I did get is working, I had only about 20 psi of oil pressure. I gave it some gas, up to about 2000rpm, and had a little bit of oil sputtering out of the pushrods / rockers. These are roller rockers. I expected oil to be spraying out, and this was just a little spurt.

The low oil pressure, and increased rpms needed to get oil up to the top, make me think there is a problem with the pump, or a seal or gasket.

The top end of this thing has just been explored and put back together, so now it is time to explore the bottom.

Can the oil pan come off of a 455 in a 67 Firebird convertible with the engine still in the car? I have no engine puller or engine stand, and I am trying to get this thing driving by mid-August.

Any ideas on the lack of pressure, or the checking of the oil pump?

Sorry for the long post, and thank you for any responses.

[General Z]

I forgot to mention that at about 2000 rpms, the oil pressure climbed to about 40 or so.

[67 455 Bird ragtop]

If it's a stock pan you need to get the engine up about 8-12" if memory serves me right to get the pan off. MIght be worth the trouble to try and find a friend who has a hoist in your area or rent one. Most places have some odd rental times that allow you to keep it longer for a day rental. Like if you pick it up after a certain time on saturday afternoon and return it Monday morning they only charge you a one day rental fee. Might be worth the $$ to check it out. Been a while since I rented one so not sure what they cost. Probably around $50/day.

[form406]

engine stands are somewhat inexpensive...you can buy a hoist and a stand for $200.-$250. ...i would pull the engine and go through it properly...

[SCOTT ESTERLE]

It would be easier to pull the engine.

[quick67bird]

Did you prime the oil pump before you attempted to start the motor? When I build a fresh motor, do a cam change or if the motor has sat for a long time I will prime the pump to be sure oil is in the system. When you prime the pump you will see the oil coming out of the lifters. It is not a good idea to start a fresh motor without priming the pump.

I agree with everyone else getting an oil pan off a motor in the chassis is more hassel than it is worth.

Robert

[lust4speed]

Before pulling the engine, take the distributor out and run the oil pump on up with a drill. Remember that it needs to go counter-clockwise (reverse on the drill), and the rpm of the drill will be half that of what the engine would be turning. In other words, if you have a 1,250 RPM drill, that would be the same as running the engine at 2,500 RPM. Also might not hurt to try a different pressure gauge before going to more trouble. Since you have moderate pressure, I would think that all the plugs are in place; but you can also look down the distributor hole while running the drill and insure you don't have a gusher coming out of the right rear oil galley that can be seen through the distributor hole about 3" down from the mounting surface.

I'll bet that you won't find anything by just pulling the pan, and there's no use in going further into the engine upside down on your back. It's so nice to work on the engine on the stand when you're trying to check clearances and such. I have pulled just the pan on a 70 GTO which might be a little worse than the Firebird because of the location of the frame member. Engine had to go up only about 3", but we did have to remove the trans and flywheel. We went in knowing that we only had to replace the pan gasket and we were working with the car on a lift. Even then, the work involved was within an hour of pulling the complete engine. My vote for next time is we even pull the engine for a gasket replacement.

[bjohnson]

I have pulled the pan off my 69 goat with a floor jack and some wood blocks. I was in a desperate situation and didn't have time in the middle of the night to get a engine hoist. Very dangerous and I wouldn't do it again. It's easier work on your feet than your back.

[form406]

ive pulled the pan on my 406...but i new exactly what the problem was...oil pressure is more serious an issue than i had...

[hillpc]

As lust4speed says, I'm not sure you'll learn a whole lot by pulling the pan, thogh on my 69 goat it was not that big a deal with wood blocks and a floor jack. Also, as mentioned, make sure the last oil gallley plug is in place near the distributor, in front of the freeze-looking plug.