[GREATGTO]

Sorry I havent updated in a while, car is coming along,updated photos are on page 2 before this post. I will be working on the RH side this weekend.

[GREATGTO]

Originally Posted by ITSBACK

How long did it take to blast the chassis? How long to blast the body? Was there any warping?

About 5 hrs, give or take, that was including cleanup and refilling blaster. As for warping, I dont blast areas that are flat and can be sanded easily, depends on blasting material also.The body I blast as I go but the bottom of the car was all done in one shot.Took about 3 hrs

[GREATGTO]

I got quite a bit more done today,here is the bumper support. I am missing the bumper brackets, if anyone has an extra set or pictures of them please let me know, I can make some if I have to.

[GREATGTO]

front bumper

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door repair

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deck lid should be fun

[GREATGTO]

The deck lid is pretty rough on the inside, will have to decide if its worth the time to repair or buy a new one.It can be fixed easily on the outside, but the inside with all the contours would be very time consuming and the hours would rack up quickly .

[gto406]

Nice work repairing the door skin greatgto!

Lid should be no problem given your metalworking/welding skills!

BR/Brian.

[mikes2nd]

thats a TON of work but looks like your handling it right.

[GREATGTO]

Thanks guys, yeah its a lot of work but I love doing it. The owner was about to sell it because he couldn't find a decent shop that would even touch it. The ones that would were bums that cant be trusted, he went down that road before he met me.

I'll probably take on another one after this one. Finished a 68 a month ago.

I'll try to post progress pictures every Sunday, thanks for following.

[GREATGTO]

Here is the trunk lid roughed in ,from just below the trunk key hole on down is all new metal both inside and outside.Just needs minor fill work to be completed. Right now it has zero filler on it, came out pretty good considering the inside was gone and outside not far behind .


The lid no longer has the correct factory contours on the inside just below the lock hole, its a much sleeker clean look now
because I used a piece of 3/16 sheet metal, its no longer two sheet metal panels welded together like the factory did, now its one thick panel that will never get rust holes or hold moisture because its one piece 3/16 thick, looks really clean on the backside, will post of picture of the backside next week maybe if I remember to take one.

[GREATGTO]

Here are some pictures of the endura nose alignment fill work in progress, no particular order, what I did was completely fill the fender gap to the nose with the epoxy, blocked it out the cut the fender loose from the nose with a blade, you probably wont ever see a better fitting nose after Im done, right now its literally a hairline gap, but I will open it enough so it looks more like seam.

[GREATGTO]

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To finish the bumper I need to buy another epoxy kit, ran out today. I will be pulling the bumper off the car to finish the underside and I plan on deleting the bumper jack holes for a cleaner look. I already eliminated the valence panel bolt that goes in the center of the valence, I welded a stud to the panel where the bolt would once go, its a much cleaner look instead of an ugly bolt right in the middle of the valence.

After the nose is done I need to work the ends of the front fenders to better match the bumper and to get the body lines to match up to the nose, both fenders had front end damage so it will take some time to get them perfect.

I also need to blast the hood and do some rust repair shortly after, once all these issues are taken care of I should be able to spray the door jambs and the inner fenders then re assemble and align the doors, fenders and nose for final blocking.

I still need to replace the RH 1/4 panel and replace the rear window channel on the top side, I have a donor roof I will be cutting it from, lots of fun ahead.