#81  
Old 12-09-2011, 09:54 PM
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It's always something.

Took our Subaru in for the 30k mile service. I now know to ask how much first. $550. So much for buying anything at all, let alone the Lemans, for quite a while. I always manage to screw up somehow. Heck of a time of year to be short with the wife being a first time grandmother.

Hoping to start doing some pre patching with the firewall. Cut out the bad, cut the new and screw it on for now. Maybe do some more cleaning in the garage, get a little better organized. anything that doesn't cost a dime.

sigh.

Russ

  #82  
Old 12-10-2011, 11:22 AM
mikes2nd mikes2nd is offline
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wtf no quote before they did the work? I would be bitching... I would be finding out wtf... I thought everyone had to provide estimates... isnt that the law?

they don't even do anything for 30k service... maybe a belt, air cleaner and lube...

  #83  
Old 12-10-2011, 12:33 PM
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There's plenty of low buck/ no buck stuff on that project to keep you busy during leaner times...(finally, something i can say i have expertise in!)
yep, wire brushing, spray painting, crud cleaning...
not the most fun of the journey, but it will have to be done sooner or later.
i hope you'll keep at it and wont be discouraged.
i've enjoyed reading this thread.

  #84  
Old 12-10-2011, 12:37 PM
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no quote. I should have asked.

Don't have the list here, but it was close to $190 in parts, the rest labor. Changed spark plugs, oil, all filters including cabin, rotated tires, and there were a few other things they did.

Never did this before with any of my new cars, and they all ended up in bad shape, so I wanted to make sure the Subaru at least lasts as long as the payments do. Putting almost 1000 miles a week on it since I can't drive the Explorer right now, so I really need to keep it going. But if I had known it was so much I would have waited a couple of weeks at least.

Next time I think I should do it myself, if I can. Or at least look at the stupid owner's manual to see what all is supposed to be done.

Thanks,
Russ

  #85  
Old 12-10-2011, 12:47 PM
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Trying not to get discouraged, but then discouraged is my natural state.

I am not a "glass is half full or is half empty" person. I am a "time to fill it up before it runs out" kind.
"every silver lining has a cloud"
"Murphy and Jones were on happy pills"
The light at the end of the tunnel isn't a train. It is the vehicle that ran over the train.
etc.


Just going to have to move my mental deadline on this back a year. Might have to try flux core wire, I have that for the welder. I know it isn't easy to do that with sheet metal, but enough people have said that they have been able to do it to make it worth a try. Too bad I just gave all my old sheet metal parts away, now I will need something to practice on.

Thanks,
Russ

  #86  
Old 12-10-2011, 12:56 PM
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about the welding...
i'm doing my 66 lemans right now. if i were to do it again i would definatly get the body adhesive and mostly use that and only weld when i absolutly have to.
i just wellded all of the panels in mine and i think i would have gotten more work done in half the time useing the adhesive.
do a search in the bodyshop section, many guys have used it with much success.
i think i saw a starter kit for around 200 bucks but i've heard it's well worth it.
flux core = hours of grinding
i'm not an expert.

  #87  
Old 12-10-2011, 01:03 PM
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http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...=body+adhesive

this is the thread i read, check it out if you get a chance.

  #88  
Old 12-10-2011, 01:09 PM
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i just noticed you'd already posted in that thread!!!lol my bad..

  #89  
Old 12-10-2011, 10:15 PM
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Yeah, I found out about that on an auto body repair site. I had planned on using it, but to get going with it would have been about as much as getting gas and a bottle for my mig. Now it will probably have to be flux core. Yuck. Or I could just use rivets like the person who did the old homemade patches on this did.

Or just wait for the money to come in. hahahahahahahahahahahahahaha

Thanks,
Russ

  #90  
Old 12-11-2011, 04:25 AM
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i dont know much about it, but i'd heard the applicator was 100 bucks, and then the epoxy was 40-50.
well, i went thru 2 tanks of gas in no time...45 bucks a fill. i really think considering the time it takes to learn to weld/ grind w/ flux core, you'd be ahead w/ the epoxy. seems alot cleaner too.
i had a really tough time w/ flux core...real dirty looking blobs of weld that i wasnt proud of and took etearnity to grind down and i ground thru a few times.
i got the gas and it was alot better but i think i could do better/ neater job w/ epoxy.

but i wish you good luck whichever you choose.

  #91  
Old 12-11-2011, 03:53 PM
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thanks.

I may just do nothing with it right now as far as replacing the metal until I can figure out what to do. The glue was my number one choice at first.
I just can't even think straight about this at the moment. going from all out to all stop in one day just sucks. I knew that day was coming, just didn't think it would be this year.

Depending on where you get the stuff, yeah it can be that much. From what I learned on the body shop site a large tube would do one quarter panel. So one tube would easily do the firewall stuff I have to do. If it wasn't for the price of the gun it would be an easy choice. Problem is you have to have the gun.

Russ

  #92  
Old 12-11-2011, 04:23 PM
48pontiac 48pontiac is offline
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My 71 Lemans had the rear quarters glued on eight years ago with no issues at all but if I were doing it my self it would have been welded with gas flush its hard to change old habbits welding has always worked well for me but shops need to save time because time is money
Joe

  #93  
Old 12-12-2011, 12:29 AM
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Hey Russ, This is quite the thread here. I've been told by one man who does GTO restoration, that the epoxy stuff works great. He said be sure to have everything lined up and measured twice before setting the panel in place because once it sets, its not going to move. The downfall is the expense of the material. Some of the new age shops use it for little or small repairs.

  #94  
Old 12-12-2011, 06:38 PM
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Hey John,

Yeah. There are 3 types (speeds) of the Fusor for metal to metal, which is the brand I am familiar with. The slow setting one is recommended for those of us who won't get it right the first attempt. Supposed to be over 30 minutes of working time, can't remember the exact time. Depends on temp and other stuff. Clamping is another issue you have to do just right or you can squeeze too much of the glue out of the seam. And generally you don't want to weld something that has been glued. Unless the glue was made for that as well. They use heat to loosen the glue to take stuff apart, and the welding just turns it into a slimy useless mess.

There is a car manufacturer in Europe I believe, higher end cars, that uses glue for the frames. That convinced me that it can hold a panel.

Good news is I spent most of yesterday afternoon working in my basement getting the area that will be my model building room cleaned out and sort of set up. Need more shelves, I have too many models. Even one of a 70 GTO that I will build to match the Lemans once (if ever) it is done.
Only problem is now I have to figure out what to do with all the stuff that was being stored in there. We are still unpacking and arranging from our move in January. So now the middle of the basement is full of

Russ


Last edited by russosborne; 12-12-2011 at 06:43 PM.
  #95  
Old 12-12-2011, 06:45 PM
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Oh, and seam lines are hard to hide sometimes, have heard from the experts that they try to do the seam where it will be covered by trim if possible, especially if the car is black.

Russ

  #96  
Old 12-24-2011, 02:31 AM
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Well, got some good news. I was finally able to convince my wife I really wanted some lumber for Christmas to make that roll-tisserie. Got almost enough, will be short on the plywood for now. But I can get the main part built. YAY! Hopefully will get started today (now, siince it is almost 1:30am here). Not sure if I have posted a link, the plans I am using are in post #28, with some size mods.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/s...ght=rotisserie

I am pretty good working with wood. Been building forts and stuff since I was about 8. Wish I had kept the workbench I built at our last house in Akron. Built it without any written plans, just what was in my head. Probably had about $100 in it, and I could jump on it without any worry, and I weigh over 300lbs.

And if I don't get back online, Merry Christmas to everyone ( or whatever holiday you are enjoying, to keep it pc)

Also, big thanks to Mike for the control arms.

Russ

  #97  
Old 01-03-2012, 06:38 PM
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Man, I have got to get a workbench in this garage. I am having to cut the 2x6s for the tilter on the car. Going across the trunk opening. Going to try to get some sawhorses this weekend at least.

Found an air compressor on craig's list that would work for most of what I need to do. Not big enough to paint or blast with, but should run all the tools. Now if the seller just doesn't sell it before this Saturday.

That will probably mean I can't get the plywood to finish the tilter for another two weeks. I have the framing part of it pretty much done, just need the plywood to make the braces/rolling. Need to get some pictures, but keep forgetting. I am not going to be able to replace all the stuff I need to when the car is on this, like the firewall, since it is bolted to it. but I can at least do the majority of the replacing and get the bottom all nice and clean.

Russ

  #98  
Old 01-03-2012, 08:13 PM
mikes2nd mikes2nd is offline
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you sir are a madman... you are moving way faster than I did

did you download a pattern for that tilter?

  #99  
Old 01-03-2012, 09:25 PM
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Pattern?

Nope. I used the plans for the VW GTX I found online as a starting point for the general construction and just started bolting on wood to the car. I generally don't use plans when I build, I tend to do better just winging it for the most part. Sometimes I WAY overthink something and never actually get it done. Especially with something like this, everyone's car will be a little different, things like height off the floor when starting, attaching points, weight of the car, etc.

Of course, by doing it this way there tends to be a few oops along the line. Like I realised that I have made the rear section too wide, the pivot point would be a bit too far from the car. But just a matter of cutting off about 6-8 inches of the main board (think bumper) and redoing the upright support. I didn't like how that support was going anyway, so this is a good chance to re-do it better. I built a bed frame this same way a few years ago. My wife still laughs about the look on my face when the mattress fell through when putting it on the first time. I double counted the thickness of the wood I was using and made it just a tad too wide.

That last is one reason I haven't gone out of my way to take pictures. Thing looks crappy right now. Somebody would be sure to think that I was finished with it and start screaming about how weak it looks.

Really hoping I can get this compressor. It is still just a roll around type, but it has a 20gal tank, it is an older sears craftsman model. That would really help with the cleaning and de rusting. I already have some cheaper air tools just waiting for me to break. If I don't, then I am going to finish this tilter up for sure. Going to have my wife tape my first tilt, just in case it is good enough for america's funniest home videos.

Russ

  #100  
Old 01-05-2012, 01:11 PM
mikes2nd mikes2nd is offline
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floor panels and stuff are easy to fix once you get going...

I will take that over doing body work...

it all gets hidden with paint anyways.

Start blasting!

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