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#21
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Actually, the gas pedal has cables attached. One is for the throttle linkage, and the other one seems to be routed towards the transmission, but I haven't gotten under the car to follow it yet. Waiting til the body is off, will be much easier on me.
Russ |
#22
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Oh I see, then I would guess it is for the kick down on Th400 transmissions.
Are they attatched to a small switch ? |
#23
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Don't know, haven't gotten under the car that much yet.
I thought I had a 350 trans. Guess I had better check. Thanks, Russ |
#24
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Pink and orange wires ? the orange one goes to the fuse box and the pink goes to the instrument cluster ?
From the main connctor in the engine bay you should have a black wire with orange stripe that goes to the transmission. Oh well it could just have been pre-wired from the factory. I can not see what else that has been connected to the gas pedal from the factory, maybe a factory installed NOS system ?? |
#25
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The TH350 downshift is cable operated from the gas pedal. The TH400 downshift is electrical and has a switch mounted at gas pedal. Hopefully this clears it up a little.
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#26
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Oh. Thanks.
I am used to Fords with the kickdown linkage attached to the carb. Learn something new every day. Russ |
#27
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Just a quick update. Lousy weekend as far as working on the car. I had to work yesterday, and it just messed up my whole schedule.
Got the headliner, rest of the heater stuff, and the front seat actually out of the car. The seat was unbolted, but I was moving it back and forth sitting on it to work inside. Surface rust on the inside of the roof. Haven't seen the whole thing, there is still 3 sections of insulation (?) I need to remove. Russ |
#28
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well, been getting some stuff done on my days off. the entire wiring harness is out of the car. everything is out of the passenger compartment except the rear seat belts, which I forgot about, and they may stay. Couldn't get the bolts to budge.
Also the driver's side kick panel. There is one bolt that I can't get a socket or nutdriver on, it is the one closest to the firewall. Thinking I may have to do surgery on it. Windshield is out and in the trash. Headliner same thing. Taking a break for dinner, then going back out to finish taking the rear bumper off. Then all that's left that has to come off is the rear window. Can't afford the tool until next weekend, so that may have to wait. Really don't want to break it. Also found and removed some supports in the trunk. There was a round tube on each side going from the hinge bracket to the trunk divider. And a round tube going from one hinge bracket to the other. Looked like that was supposed to be bolted to the divider in the middle, there was a hole there in the tube anyway, but it wasn't. Did I mention more rust? Package tray on the passenger side in the rear corner. Floor along the front and middle supports. After seeing this pattern on the trunk also, I am thinking there is a problem with these being spotwelded to the sheet metal. Either they weren't sealed or the seal stuff came off. This is one reason I will be seam welding everything I do. Overkill, probably. But cheap insurance in my eyes. The front body bushing mount area on the driver's side is pretty bad. I think I am going to need to replace that whole section of the floor and firewall. Didn't take any pictures yet. Will over the weekend though. The passenger side is also bad, but not quite as rotten as the driver's. So far the trans tunnel is looking solid, so I think I will just be doing both pans. Want to leave as much original as possible for something solid to weld to. Will have to wait and see though. Russ |
#29
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more done. I thought I had emailed the pictures to my work email, but I didn't apparently. Will have to upload them tomorrow.
Turns out I had miscounted the body mounts. Had a couple more. But I have them all removed. Good thing I am replacing the trunk sheetmetal. Ended up cutting the trunk floor and braces around the two mounts that are just behind the rear tires. Be easier to get that off the frame after the body is off. Got the rear glass out. I bought the cold knife, wish I had bought the kit that had the wire and handles instead. But between the knife and the weed eater string I finally got it out. No cracks either. Yay me. I had no idea that it was as curved as it is. Of course I found more rust. In the rear window channel. But so far it is just about an inch or so, so should be a fairly simple patch. Also forgot I need to remove the e-brake cable from the body. But that is the last thing to come off, that I know of anyway. Got a tow strap to use to lift the body off. Next weekend should be liftoff. I hope. Russ |
#30
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Making nice progress. The back glass is tempered and I have never seen one break from using a windshield knife to remove it. The windshield is not safety tempered glass and is made to be soft incase you get in an accident and it is part of the cars structure.
__________________
1971 Pontiac GT-37 Car is a junk yard dog and maybe one day will be restored. |
#31
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Looking forward to the pictures
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#32
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pictures part one
losing my mind. Keep forgetting stuff.
Anyway, here they are. Russ |
#33
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pictures part two
The last one is how I am going to be doing the floor on mine. Wood I can work with, welding metal is going to be a learning experience so I don't want to start with anything structural like a rotissorie.
Russ |
#34
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our rotisorrie was great, does the job
Would it be an idea to change a larger part of the floor pan ? from what I could see on your pictures it was pretty bad, I am thinking that it might be easier for you to buy a quarter or half pan and weld it in. However so does it not look so bad from the underside of the car. |
#35
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launch control, we have liftoff.
didn't think it would really happen, but got the body off today. Well, yesterday now. Wasn't that bad doing it by myself. Used a couple of floor jacks and jack stands to do the initial lift just to make sure it was ready to go. Then I hooked up the engine hoist with a tow strap around the floor and started lifting. Learned two things. 1-make sure the hoist lifting point is centered on the car. Otherwise you get a bad lean. 2-having the strap towards the rear of the car would have been better. Got a few pictures, but I need to retake some others. Had problems with the focus for some reason. ??? Frame seems to be in better shape than I had worried about. Haven't found the vin on it yet, need to do that before I spend any time cleaning it up. I don't care about number's matching, but the state trooper inspector does. Russ |
#36
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more pics
someone asked about the rust on the bottom of the panel between the rear window and the trunk. I hope to get better ones after I cut the trunk floor out, but got a couple by just sticking the camera in there and doing it blind.
The body is now on jack stands and is level. That is one of the pictures that I have to retake. Hope it doesn't rain, need to get something to cover the engine with, it might be outside for a bit. Thanks, Russ |
#37
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but then, why bother covering the engine when I can just put it in the garage?
nice day today. spent the afternoon outside mowing the yard and working on the car. |
#38
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Wow, going fast now, good work
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#39
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that's awesome!
do you have a welder? |
#40
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Looking at these pictures makes me want to tear my GT-37 apart soon.
__________________
1971 Pontiac GT-37 Car is a junk yard dog and maybe one day will be restored. |
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