['69 coupe]

I posted this in the Firebird tec forum, but I thought that I would put it here also since the problem is probably not Firebird specific. Can I get some advice from the "pros" on the board? I have a problem with the column ignition in my '69. I shut the car off and had trouble getting the key out of the ignition. When I tried to re-start the car, nothing happened. It seems like something has slipped in the column, and the key doesn't turn far enough to engage the starter. It does turn far enough to get in the "run" position. With the key turned as far forward as possible, I can start the engine by jumping across the starter solenoid (tough to do from the bottom through a header). Has anyone had this problem? I think the lock cylinder is original, and I wonder if the tumblers got worn and slipped. Also, any tips on getting the column apart. I couldn't figure out how to get a green plastic ring that's part of the turn signal mechanism out without breaking it. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

[INJUNTOM]

on a '69 or newer car, the key is in the column....the actual ignition switch is farther down the column, and will have an actuator rod from the key cylinder going down to the switch.

you may have a problem with the rod, and/or the actual switch.

[sixt8bird]

Turn the cloumn cover at the back about 8" from the steering wheel. This turns when you change gears. It is all hooked up by rod actuations from the trans to the column. It is typical for the play to get excessive and this is what happens. So you need to turn it the last bit by hand. This will enable the nuetral safty switch and release the key lock. Look at it as a new anti theft devise :^)

[mzbk2l]

If it turns out not to be the neutral safety switch adjustment (as described by sixt8bird), then it may be the ignition switch or actuator rod (as described by INJUNTOM). This can be a pain to fix/replace, especially if you have a tilt column. Here's a link to a description I found on google. He's actually tightening his tilt column bearings, but he has to go through all the same steps as you would to replace the ignition switch actuator rack in a tilt column car.

http://experts.about.com/q/Steering-...vy-caprice.htm

['69 coupe]

Thanks for the suggestions. I'll try them this week and keep my fingers crossed that I don't have to take the column apart. That sounds like a lot of "fun" :-)

[pont3]

Until you get a chance to actually FIX it, you can grab the part of the column that rotates, and turn it counterclockwise a little. This will allow the ignition key to return to the proper position for key removal and position the neutral safety switch properly for starting. From what you describe, a linkage rod is all that needs adjusting. This is simple and does not require disassembly of the steering column. Once you identify the rod that actuates the "rotator" on the column, you'll have found where you need to make the adjustment.

['69 coupe]

Thanks pont3 and others. The neutral start switch was the problem. The car had a floor mounted B&M speed shifter with a direct linkage to the TH400 when I bought it. I knew the neutral start switch didn't work (it'll start in any gear) but I didn't realize that the column could get bumped and twist. The tach is mounted on the sliding section, and that's just what happened. I would like to get some neutral start safety back on the car in case my 16-year old son decides to hop in and isn't careful. Apparently there is now no linkage between the shifter and the column. Does anyone have any experience with a B&M shifter and a neutral start switch?

[mzbk2l]

I have no experience on a 1st gen 'bird so I can't comment, but I did have a B&M shifter on my '77 T/A. On the 2nd gen cars, it doesn't matter which shifter you have in the car as long as the cable still connects to the transmission and the neutral safety switch rod still runs down from the steering column (just outside the firewall) to the rod that connects to the selector lever. As long as these parts have not been removed from your car, it should be relatively simple to find that linkage outside the firewall and adjust it a bit. (It's been years since I had to do it, but I did have that problem with my '77 T/A and did make the adjustment without much trouble.)

I'm glad it wasn't your actuator rack inside the column!