[Aus Goat]

Adam I had heaps of issues at the start with my car so my 2 cents
look at http://v8tvshow.com/V8TV_2/index.php...ty-69-firebird . The divider plate mod is a must for good cooling.
A good radiator http://www.ebay.com/itm/1968-1969-19...bef8fe&vxp=mtr . Mine is a 2 core and that's is all I need for my HP with twin thermos .
Remember HP means heat so good coolants my timing 14 - 42 no vac advance and no issues 185temp unless I am getting up her then turn on 2 fan and the temp comes back down .

[HWYSTR455]

When you say 'no vacuum advance added', do you mean that it's not connected to a vacuum port? Or you're just removing what you believe the can is adding?

Without the vacuum advance connected to a vacuum port, you should see a linear change of total when changing the initial. Something is still askew.

Slight variation in the timing as you mentioned is normal, can be caused by a slight amount of slack in the timing chain, for one. But when you read the marks, your line of sight should be 90 degrees from the centerline of the crank, through the balancer, and the 0 timing mark on the cover. And again, you may want to verify TDC with the marks, just to be sure.

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[AdamIsAdam]

When I wrote "no vacuum advance added," yes, I meant it was disconnected and plugged so I could measure mechanical advance alone.

Also, I took a closer look at my Taurus electric fan setup. Well, it sucks. The OEM fan and shroud was just stuck on there using those push-through zip ties. It covers most of my aluminum radiator's 21"x18" surface area, but there are plenty of gaps around the sides of it and the top. I saw on Summit's video that a V8 should have at least 4,500 CFM, yet there are almost no fans that high and I don't have the room for two fans, so not sure how to achieve that. Also read that the Taurus fan on HIGH mode is supposed to push that much air, but others feel that's not accurate. We'll see.

I do try and look 90* from the centerline as you stated when reading timing.
I'll find and measure and verify the timing marks on my balancer too. (what brand is that? "PB" is PowerBond?)

Here are a few pics of my setup:







Check out the gap on top of the shroud here!

[HWYSTR455]

Ok, NOW it's starting to make some sense. Where did that timing mark come from that's on the timing cover? That's one issue there, so first thing, you need to verify TDC and the mark on the cover.

So that's a late model, no timing mark cover. One option is to swap a cover that has the timing marks, other option is to verify the mark. That thing could be, and probably is, way off. Not sure, but think someone makes a billet timing mark for those covers, but you would still have to verify TDC.

Wow, that fan doesn't cover much of the core, and yes, all the gaps/leaks are just sucking air from the engine compartment, and not through the core.

Ok, 21x18 surface area, like you mean that's the core size? Are you measuring from tank to tank? Can you take a pic from the engine compartment side towards the radiator and get the whole radiator in the shot?

This one is close, though is slightly larger, but bet it could be fitted. It's 3750cfm, but if you look at the shroud, you will see the pressure reliefs.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/der-16830/overview/

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[AdamIsAdam]

I'll verify the timing mark. I assume the builder (my old friend) made that mark.

The radiator surface area (fin area) is 21x18. The outside dimensions are about 26x18.5x2.25".

Note that I only have about 3.5" of clearance between the radiator and the front of the pulley, so that fan won't fit. (I looked at it last night on Summit and couldn't find anything that would fit and flow that much cfm.)

I'll snap a pic later this evening.

EDIT: I've got a Summit order pending. In my cart:
FlowKooler 1649 - FlowKooler Hi Flow Mechanical Water Pumps
FlowKooler 330-160 - FlowKooler Robertshaw Series High Performance Thermostats (and some sort of gasket)

I don't mind adding a new electric fan if there's one I missed. If I'm gonna throw some parts at this thing, I just assume do it once. the car will think it's x-mas morning

[BILTIT]

Have you looked into the Lincoln MKVIII electric fan? I run one and it moves serious air.

https://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2006/10/Mark8Fan/

[HWYSTR455]

Well, there should be a way to move the rad outward some, or would think so. You could also probably trim the shroud some too.

Not to mention that the highest part it the fan motor, and on the dual fans those are offset from the centerline, which could clear the water pump. That's probably where you measured from, right? Did you measure to the fins or the tanks?

Here's a Black Magic, I've heard and seen good things with these, and draw 3300:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/flx-188/overview/

It's a single fan, and pretty sure you could trim the shroud by a half inch. It's 4.188 deep, but that is in the middle being a single fan.

You can make something work for sure. Ask others with the same body style what they use to get ideas.

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[AdamIsAdam]

Thanks for the links. Yes, I measured the core (the fins) area. And yes, I measured from the fins to the bolts on the water pump pulley as best I could with the current fan in place. My current fan is offset perfectly so that it sits next to the pulley. I'll check this all out and report back, with pics.

Probably most importantly is that I need to verify my timing marks before continuing. I see that now. Then I'll move on to carb and timing tuning again.

[TheSilverBuick]

I'm running a trimmed up HHR fan on my Firebird. So far it works like a champ. Been in stop and go traffic in 90ºF weather and did not have an issue with coolant temp.

[Squidward]

Originally Posted by AdamIsAdam

I'll verify the timing mark. I assume the builder (my old friend) made that mark.

The radiator surface area (fin area) is 21x18. The outside dimensions are about 26x18.5x2.25".

Note that I only have about 3.5" of clearance between the radiator and the front of the pulley, so that fan won't fit. (I looked at it last night on Summit and couldn't find anything that would fit and flow that much cfm.)

I'll snap a pic later this evening.

EDIT: I've got a Summit order pending. In my cart:
FlowKooler 1649 - FlowKooler Hi Flow Mechanical Water Pumps
FlowKooler 330-160 - FlowKooler Robertshaw Series High Performance Thermostats (and some sort of gasket)

I don't mind adding a new electric fan if there's one I missed. If I'm gonna throw some parts at this thing, I just assume do it once. the car will think it's x-mas morning

Brown Santa visiting in May!

I'll be following your results. That core size is very close to a 1st gen FB core size, which is why the Taurus fan fits it pretty closely. My A-body experience is limited.

I just ditched my Taurus fan, and will never go back. It seemed to blow good air at idle, but I speculate that it might inhibit high speed air flow. And since I can't do the back of the hand flow-meter test at 60 mph, I can really only speculate.

[Aus Goat]

The Thermos you have leak more than pull air though the radiator .
My fans are http://www.carsrus.com.au/ford-au-fa...B28aApLX8P8HAQ
Now you would have something close to this over there. . Beware of current draw on thermos and SPAL units . My fans killed the controller due to current draw was 30amp and the poor little old SPAL unit could not handle it. So hook up one fan to a temp trigger earth ( http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/THERMO-FA...item419289acec) and the other manual switch on the dash . No issues ever with this set up .

[HWYSTR455]

Yeah those fans are 29" wide, too big for his app.

Have to run a controller that is rated at the amps the fan draws, electric 101.

The DeRale and Dakota Digital controllers are some of the best. I will run a Dakota with my new setup for the driver. I had the flex-a-lite 4600 cfm setup on it, and that thing would suck a beer out of your hand if you stood to close when it came on.
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[AdamIsAdam]

I verified the timing mark it be correct. But I got, ahem, sidetracked. Let's just say I have a bunch of stuff to do when Brown shows up, including installing the new water pump.

[AdamIsAdam]

ok, so it's nearly a month later I'm back on track. Had a full valve job done as long as my heads were off. Old valve guides were shot and old springs were only registering about 85lbs of pressure. So, new set of Comp 995 dual springs, new valve job, new Harland rockers and also they did a bunch of porting on heads too. My 46's are 75cc.

Tonight I took the car for a ride. It's hot and humid out and the car's running better than ever. Felt strong and was running cool at 180* most of the time, barely up to 190* or so after a while! So if the car's running too lean and it gets hotter and more humid out, as I recall that make it start running richer, or in my case, the hot humid temps are correcting a normally too lean condition, right?

Also, I found a very burnt in-line fuse wire to the electric fan main line. I find it hard to believe that it's been that way since my temp problems started and I didn't notice until now, but it's possible I guess. Tonight, I fixed the wires, so maybe I'm getting more CFM out of the fan and wasn't before. who knows.

Thoughts?




Oh and here's the fan: