[64gtogary]

I'm doing a frame off restoration of a 64 GTO. I installed all stainless steel brake lines and have no leaks except at the brass junction block on the frame. I ordered a new junction block from Ames and still having the same problem. When I installed it I hand threaded all flair fittings into the block to make sure they were not cross threaded before I fastened to the frame, Someone please tell me what I did wrong.

[mysticmissle]

you may have done nothing wrong and just received a poorly flared line(s). i would try to reflare them if you have not already.

[64gtogary]

No I haven't tried that. When you spend the money on new stainless lines you don't think that you have to do that. Thanks for the help.

[b-man]

The hard stainless line flares have a difficult time conforming and sealing to the flare on the fittings, a typical issue with stainless brake lines.

On a garaged car that won’t be subjected to the ravages of wet winter weather out on the road perhaps just regular steel lines would be more than adequate.

I always use a dab of copper anti-seize on flare nuts to lube the threads as well as where the nut rides against the backside of the flare to help get the flares to seal, this might help you.

[Goatracer1]

SS lines are very hard and don't always seal well. Also check the flare carefully being hard they can crack if over tightened.

[grivera]

I have the SS lines on my 69 bird and had a couple of joints with that issue. What worked for me is loosening and tightening the joint a few times to get the flare to seal.

[Schurkey]

Stainless flares are hard. There are copper flare-washers that can help. I've heard of them, but never used or purchased them.

Far as I'm concerned, stainless brake tubes are just asking for problems. Leaks at the flares are common.

[GtoFM]

What B-man said! If you tried 2 blocks, it must be the flare. I may be in for a frame-off with my '64 GTO and decided long ago to stay away from SS lines. Too difficult to massage, that is in the event the pre-bent lines don't quite fit, haha. Plus, I'm a retired HVAC tech and always used copper flare washers on field flares as insurance. Not sure how they work on SS dbl flare joints. SS is just for looks IMHO.

[1968GTO421]

Originally Posted by b-man

The hard stainless line flares have a difficult time conforming and sealing to the flare on the fittings, a typical issue with stainless brake lines.

On a garaged car that won’t be subjected to the ravages of wet winter weather out on the road perhaps just regular steel lines would be more than adequate.

I always use a dab of copper anti-seize on flare nuts to lube the threads as well as where the nut rides against the backside of the flare to help get the flares to seal, this might help you.

I agree with B-man. A friend tried stainless and had no end of problems. I just use the regular ones and have had no trouble with them

South Caroplina now uses salt in the winter for snow/ice problems (part of the agreement with BMW to move here). So I just use the GTO on nice days and the regular steel works fine. Not a show car so no need for polished SS lines.

[Lemans64]

I have stainless lines on my 64 with no issues, BUT you do not just tighten them, you MUST loosen and tighten numerous times in order for them to seat properly.
Since doing this on mine I have not had any leaks. This was recommended by the seller of the lines.

[NeighborsComplaint]

I've encountered blocks where the flare seat is machined too deep and the flare nuts bottom out before they seal tight. You could try the copper flare washers and see if that's the issue. In the long run, I'd swap the block for one that fits without the washer.