[dataway]

Saw your flap wheels and ordered some myself, coincidentally the exact same brand. Been using the 3M sliver cutoff wheels, happy with them so far. Yes, huge difference in quality and longevity between the cheap stuff and the good stuff.

ragtop ... just got one of those a few months ago, definitely something that needs to be in the arsenal.

Some of those seemingly useless flanges were probably a necessity of the stamping process. The parts need a "flange" around the perimeter for the stamping press to grab so the metal can be stretched into the desire shape by the press. It's usually an additional process to put it in another machine that trims off the flange, which when possible they might exclude to save money. Then they probably fill those cavities to prevent buzzing, rattling or "tin-can" sounds. People like to hear a "thunk" more than a "tink"

[roger1]

Originally Posted by 68ragtop

Roger, do you have a finger style mini belt sander? Just curious because they are one of those tools that you cannot live without in fabrication once you have one.
I got one from a good friend & it quickly became one of my favorite tools

I do not. Sounds like I need to consider getting one. I like the idea of an pneumatic versus electric. Eastwood has a couple and I just watched a video.
I think I like the 1/2" X 18" model they have.

[roger1]

I did this in 2 patches. First was the bottom where the quarter panel wraps under and is welded to the tail light panel flange. It was really important to get the shape of this patch correct. I made a template of the shape using the other side as a guide. I traced a line onto a piece of sheetmetal and when turned upside down can be used on the opposite side.
Here it is welded into place:





This is how I made the next patch:





I left the bottom edge a little long and will trim it off after welding.







I welded the bottom edge from inside the trunk.



I did have to planish using a hammer and dolly during the welding process and after the the welding was finished. Both to stretch back the shrinkage from welding heat and some in order to get the metal to fit the shape of the bottom edge. It's a compound curve and that has to be formed as it's installed. It was a bit of a challenge but I got it pretty well and I don't think I will need any filler but just some high build primer.

[Greg Reid]

Looks like you nailed it.

[roger1]

I took the following 2 photos of the rear of the d/s quarter panel back in October when I stripped the paint:





Not the best job of dent removal for sure. They had used a lot of bondo in this area that I had to remove also.
I reworked it today using a couple of different body hammers, dolly and body file and got it much better.





I also welded up the small holes that it had in the corner that I showed in a photo from a couple of days ago.



Both sides of this area are now done and I will move to repairing the p/s inner wheelhouse same as I did on the d/s last week. I wont post all the details on that since it will be pretty much the exact same process.

[Verdoro 68]

You're making this look too easy. I'm getting tempted to pick up another project.

[Greg Reid]

...and I'm getting tempted to actually start on the one I have!

[roger1]

Originally Posted by Verdoro 68

You're making this look too easy. I'm getting tempted to pick up another project.

Originally Posted by Greg Reid

...and I'm getting tempted to actually start on the one I have!

Cool that I'm inspiring you guys. I take that as a compliment, so thanks!

But.... I messed my lower back doing what I did yesterday. It tightened up on me pretty bad a couple of hours after I quit. Must have been the way I was bending over and twisting with my head inside the trunk to use the hammer while holding the dolly in my other hand on the outside. I will have to go easy for the next couple of days!

[OG68]

Roger, while you're taking it easy here is a thread about a 69 Yenko Chevelle restoration that's was over the top. 60 some pages.

https://www.yenko.net/forum/showthread.php?t=152152

[Shiny]

Originally Posted by roger1

I took the following 2 photos of the rear of the d/s quarter panel back in October when I stripped the paint:
...

Your skills and speed are truly impressive - the posts are motivational so thanks for detailing your amazing work.

Your annihilation of the residual quarter panel damage is a reminder of my next bodywork learning opportunity... I think I can make this better but won't know until I try. I'll definitely ask for help when I get to it.

[Greg Reid]

Looks like someone has been beating it from the inside with something too smal. like a ball peen hammer. I think it needs to be pulled from the outside to get that crease out and then worked smooth with hammer and dolly.
Just trying to see if I'm close..

[roger1]

Originally Posted by Shiny

Your skills and speed are truly impressive - the posts are motivational so thanks for detailing your amazing work.

Your annihilation of the residual quarter panel damage is a reminder of my next bodywork learning opportunity... I think I can make this better but won't know until I try. I'll definitely ask for help when I get to it.

Thanks!

What you've got to repair there is going to be very complicated. It was already going to be a challenge and the ball peen stretching is going to make it twice as hard. MP&C is the guy I'd want guiding me for something like that. He is the best sheetmetal guy I've ever seen.
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/...d.php?t=182565

[Ben M.]

I'm just in awe every time I see someone with these bodyworking skills. Inspires me to finish my projects...

It also goes to show that no matter how "rust free" we think our cars are, there's *always* something lurking. I'd have been tempted to slap some POR-15 on most of it and drive it, but my Type A is in agreement with you on fixing it right. "Better than factory" is not an insult.

[gtohurstjudge]

I'm sure you already know this but it is worth mentioning..........
be sure to trial fit the stainless molding that goes on the bottom of the wrap around on the quarters that you are patching to make sure the curve of your
patch panel matches the curve of the stainless trim....ditto on the wheel well
molding trim. As others have said, your welding skills are exemplary!

[roger1]

Originally Posted by Ben M.

I'm just in awe every time I see someone with these bodyworking skills. Inspires me to finish my projects...

It also goes to show that no matter how "rust free" we think our cars are, there's *always* something lurking. I'd have been tempted to slap some POR-15 on most of it and drive it, but my Type A is in agreement with you on fixing it right. "Better than factory" is not an insult.

Thanks! Agree with you 100% too. The rust has to go!

Originally Posted by gtohurstjudge

I'm sure you already know this but it is worth mentioning..........
be sure to trial fit the stainless molding that goes on the bottom of the wrap around on the quarters that you are patching to make sure the curve of your
patch panel matches the curve of the stainless trim....ditto on the wheel well
molding trim. As others have said, your welding skills are exemplary!

Thanks for the compliment on my welding. I think having a good welder makes a difference.. My little Lincoln SP-135 Plus that has the variable voltage feature rather than just the ABCDE knob is really good for sheetmetal. I can really fine tune it. I had never used a mig before getting this one.

Yes, trial fitting trim is something that needs to be done when working areas where the go.
Funny you mentioned that with the small trim piece that goes under the quarter above the tail light. I got them out when I was working on that and found that both pieces I took off this car were for the driver side!
I'm figuring that whoever did the bondo job on the passenger side must have installed a d/s trim piece because it fit their bondo job better.
Anyway, I wasn't able to check but I am pretty confident once I get a p/s trim piece it will fit OK. I'd like to find a good used original if I can. Ames has them but you have to buy the complete deck lid trim kit to get it.

[roger1]

No explanations needed. Same process as other side.
A little better in that I was able to save a short portion of the upper floor flange.
A little worse rust on the trunk floor brace though.











Now ready to make some patches to install.

[iceman411]

Nice job on the rear quarter corner! The metal work is my ABSOLUTE favorite part of a project... looks like you are tackling it nicely. Convertibles don’t disappoint for metal work... there’s always some rust lurking...
On my ‘71 vert, I have well over 400 hours in metal work just to get the previous levels of body shop sin and the natural decomposing of metal by design as mentioned previously the way water drains in these things... Mike

[roger1]

Originally Posted by iceman411

Nice job on the rear quarter corner! The metal work is my ABSOLUTE favorite part of a project... looks like you are tackling it nicely. Convertibles don’t disappoint for metal work... there’s always some rust lurking...
On my ‘71 vert, I have well over 400 hours in metal work just to get the previous levels of body shop sin and the natural decomposing of metal by design as mentioned previously the way water drains in these things... Mike

Thanks Mike!
Overall I am super pleased with the condition of my car. Since I bought it sight-unseen, it took several iterations of asking for and receiving photos from the seller before I was convinced that the rust issues weren't worse than I wanted to take on. It was good that he didn't have the car advertised and time wasn't an issue for either of us.
There was rust I didn't see in the photos and I expected that but what really surprised me about this car is where it ISN'T rusted and I'm elated about that.

Once I get these rust issues in the rear wheelwells done then the only rust areas left are the lower fenders and those will be easy. The minor dents in the fenders will be pretty easy too.

My favorite part of body work is panel alignment and getting gaps perfect. The trunk and doors to quarters are already good but will have a good amount of work to do with the front endura bumper, hood and fenders to get it all as close to perfect as I can get it.

[roger1]

Trunk floor and flanges complete. Ready for making the wheelhouse patches:





Inner wheelhouse patches welded in and finished off:

[dataway]

Jeez, the unrusted sheet metal on that car looks excellent.