[HWYSTR455]

Originally Posted by Formulajones

Yeah has me wondering if that's a result of the efi tank design?

I've noticed the EFI tanks put the sump and sender in the deepest part of the tank, for obvious reasons, and they tend to have the deeper part of the tank towards the front.
So as fuel is used the tank isnt emptying in a granular fashion or a level fashion because it's at an angle.
I don't know if I'm explaining that well enough to make sense but that's what I've noticed.
On a regular stock tank the sender is closer to the middle of the tank and therefore gives a more accurate representation as fuel drains.

That may very well be the case, but think the OE float assembly positions the float towards the front, in the deeper section, but honestly can't recall. I do know the 5 screw hole in the efi tanks position the float to the passenger side, if I recall correctly, the 5 screw holes are clocked.

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[HWYSTR455]

Originally Posted by Formulajones

Since this thread is about fuel system setup, I'll explain how I always do them and why.

If I'm doing an electric pump setup there is only one way I'll do these fuel systems now, and set them up a specific way. I refuse to deviate when people come to me with other cheaper ideas because that has usually resulted in problems later down the road.

Electric pumps, always go in the tank, no exceptions. Tanks Inc makes this so easy now and affordable as far as baffled electric pump tanks go, it's just a no brainer.

I always run 1/2" feed and return lines. I don't dink around anymore with trying to reuse the stock lines. I just don't do it. Doesn't matter to me what HP the engine is making, I always do 1/2" so I know the engine, what ever engine may end up in there in the future, has an ample supply of fuel and also the return is big enough so that if a bigger pump is needed in the future it has ample room for return without having to revisit that deal again.

I also always run a full length return. Always. I'm not worried about trying to save $50 by not running a return line. I want the fuel to constantly circulate the entire length of the car so I know the carb or EFI is getting cool fuel that isn't sitting stagnant at idle and low rpm situations. Especially since I live in a hot part of the country (Arizona) As a result I always put the regulator as close to the fuel mixer as possible, whether it's a carb or EFI, and the return line starts from there and runs the length of the car back to the tank. I will not put a return at the tank or run a returnless system just to save a few bucks on some fuel line. Not worth it to me, I just won't do it.

I also make sure I'm running a pump in the tank that more than covers the HP the engine is making. I like to have a cushion of a couple hundred HP so there is no question later about delivery and has some room to grow if needed.

I've found that by sticking to a setup like this I've had absolutely ZERO issues in all aspects of driving, whether it's daily or at the dragstrip, with carbs or EFI, and in 110+ degree heat. I refuse to setup cars any other way these days when people come to me with their EFI setups and want the cheapest fuel system they can get away with. That almost always results in a problem down the road and since I'm the guy that built it, that's usually where the blame goes. So I just don't do it anymore. I just tell people up front, this is how I do it, I have 100% success with it, and it's going to run about $1000 for all the parts to get it done. If that doesn't interest you, I'm not your guy.

AMEN! Been saying this for years! And, NO DEADHEADS!

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