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#1
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400 tranny questions
I need to drop my pan to replace my kick down solenoid. I have about 1000 miles on newly stock rebuilt tranny. I figure it's too hard to capture my new fluid to reuse. I am leaning toward a new after market pan with a drain plug for future ease. I also considered a pan with a temp gauge sending unit. Would I be better off using my old pan and welding two bungs? I haven't seen any pans for both options. I liked the old B&M pan I put on my Camaro years ago, but I know welding aluminum can be tricky and may mess up the nice look from heating it for a temp sender bung. Suggestions?
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#2
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Transmission pan
__________________
“Nothing in the world can take the place of persistence. Talent will not; nothing is more common than unsuccessful men with talent. Genius will not; unrewarded genius is almost a proverb. Education will not; the world is full of educated derelicts. Persistence and determination alone are omnipotent. The slogan Press On! has solved and always will solve the problems of the human race.” ― Calvin Coolidge |
#3
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Drop a cooler tube at the radiator, generally the lower one. Direct the fluid into a CLEAN drain pan. Start engine, let the trans pump nearly-empty the pan for you.
Trans pans with "drain plugs" are a total waste of money. Deep pans need to be well-protected from debris on the roadway, potentially including speed bumps. |
#4
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Can the Temp sensor fit the drain plug bung?
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#5
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I'd expect the temp sensor to be pipe-thread. But perhaps there's a version with straight thread of the correct thread diameter and pitch.
And if the drain plug bung is on the bottom of the pan instead of the side...even more road-hazard clearance problems. |
#6
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I didn't realize running trans line into container wouldn't harm tranny when started and run to pump dry. I see SSR listed a pan with both bungs. A bit spendy, but a nice opption given it also has cooling pipes.
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#7
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Quote:
If the vehicle isn't moving...the geartrain doesn't need lube. And the pump isn't run "dry", you'd shut off the engine when the fluid starts to sputter from the loose cooler tube. There's still enough residual fluid in the pump to supply lube to the moving parts. That leaves the oil pan "mostly" empty, but not completely. You'd "save" most of the fluid and at the same time, reduce spillage and mess when the pan comes loose from the case. |
The Following User Says Thank You to Schurkey For This Useful Post: | ||
#8
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Thanks, I didn't know it was safe to run the fluid out like that. I assume the torque convertor doesn't drain due to not spinning then?
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#9
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Um..
Quote:
I put those Derale pans on my 70 Skylark and my 94 C3500. I like the idea of a drain plug and an option for a trans temperature gauge. They are USA made and are a heavy gage, made very well.
__________________
“Nothing in the world can take the place of persistence. Talent will not; nothing is more common than unsuccessful men with talent. Genius will not; unrewarded genius is almost a proverb. Education will not; the world is full of educated derelicts. Persistence and determination alone are omnipotent. The slogan Press On! has solved and always will solve the problems of the human race.” ― Calvin Coolidge |
#10
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Summit sells a nice aluminum pan for the TH-400 at a great price too comes with a nice gasket and a drain plug. You don't need to weld a bung in for a temp sensor you can just drill and tap it for the sensor. Any professional welder can weld in a bung for you if you really want to weld it in but why would you.
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Tim Corcoran |
#11
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Thanks Tim. I assume the aluminum is thick enough for a couple threads then? Unlike stock sheet metal pans.
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