Pontiac - Street No question too basic here!

          
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  #741  
Old 02-23-2022, 01:37 PM
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  #742  
Old 02-23-2022, 03:06 PM
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That's clean! Nice job!

.

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  #743  
Old 02-23-2022, 05:11 PM
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Originally Posted by JSchmitz View Post
I've always wanted to try Sharkhide. Works good?

I would reco using wax and grease remover instead of lacquer thinner. I love lacquer thinner. But it eats about anything!

I screwed up years ago. I use Eagle mag wheel cleaner for aluminum parts. It has acid and works great. Works really well on my Centerline wheels. I started using it to clean my intake manifold as well. Didn't think about it getting on my Holley carb. It ate some of the coating away. DOH!

https://www.amazon.com/Valvoline-E30.../dp/B00J4RN7RS

Yes, the Sharkhide works great.

I spent a whole day once disassembling my "tumble polished" Holley that had turned into a nasty gray aluminum junkyard core looking carb in a couple years of occasional use. I finished it up and when I came back the next day, it was just as gray and oxidized as when I started. I got turned onto Sharkhide which keeps the polished aluminum nice and shiney. I also use iy on my radiator, alternator and intake. A light coat gives a semi-gloss perfect for parts. A heavy coat on the carb keeps it glossy.

I always use the milder wheel cleaner for clear-coated aluminum wheels for under hood cleaning and rinse well. The acid based stuff will etch the plain aluminum parts white and strip the anodized coating off aluminum and cad plating off steel.

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Last edited by NeighborsComplaint; 02-23-2022 at 05:20 PM.
  #744  
Old 02-23-2022, 05:11 PM
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That's clean! Nice job!

.
Thanks, but the real credit goes to my son and grandson. They even installed ferrite cores on my spark plug wires and battery terminals. Don't know if it's doing much, but it sure cleaned up my radio/ speaker static. Lol


Last edited by 68WarDog; 02-23-2022 at 05:18 PM.
  #745  
Old 03-03-2022, 11:23 PM
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Well I have scaled back my grand plans a little to be a little more realistic with my use for the car. I have a 750 Brawler die cast with mechanical secondaries and electric choke. I sent back the pro billet distributor and MSD 6AL and just bought a Summit Ready To Run distributor and a blaster coil. That way I can clean up my firewall and just have the wires for the choke and the distributor so that will clean a lot of my concerns up. Nothing I can do about the snakes of hydroboost hose but when the car was running I was pulling about 5 pounds of vacuum and I don’t expect that to improve with the carburetor so I think hydroboost is my best option. 4 things left, exhaust (I have it). Speaker install (I have them). AC/Heat kit (I have it) and interior (I have it). Right now it’s just a matter of having money to take these steps. Hope to start it again Saturday and let it get up to temp and make sure it doesn’t overheat etc and then I’ll start driving it some when the seat comes back in about 10-15 days.

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Last edited by 64speed; 03-03-2022 at 11:40 PM.
  #746  
Old 03-03-2022, 11:56 PM
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With the price of gas and having to drive it I would have gone to a vac secondary carb.JMHO!Tom

  #747  
Old 03-05-2022, 08:06 PM
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I have the progressive linkage where it’s not 1:1, my back barrels don’t start opening till 40%

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Old 03-06-2022, 04:30 PM
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did you start it up yesterday?

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  #749  
Old 03-06-2022, 07:08 PM
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I have everything done except the gas tank mounting. The straps from the fuel injection tank wont work with the factory style tank so I have to get some. I thought about starting it with a gas can but it clouded over and I thought it was going to rain. Boy running the 3/8 fuel line was real fun. I ended up having to run a coat hanger thru the front frame horn and tape the line to it and pull it thru. Its going to rain the next few days I think but I hope if the straps come I can start it next weekend. I am waiting on a prop valve and my seat and then when they come I will take it for a spin for the first time since the 326 blew up

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  #750  
Old 03-06-2022, 07:20 PM
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Surprised you removed the FI fuel tank - the EFI pumps work well with a carb if plumbed correctly

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  #751  
Old 03-06-2022, 08:47 PM
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Surprised you removed the FI fuel tank - the EFI pumps work well with a carb if plumbed correctly
The tank was cheaper than the regulator

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  #752  
Old 03-06-2022, 08:57 PM
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Is a mechanical pump with 3/8 line and pick up going to keep up with your engine?

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  #753  
Old 03-06-2022, 10:41 PM
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Hard to imagine a fuel tank, straps, and mechanical fuel pump costing less than a bypass regulator. Perhaps you had an old mechanical fuel pump laying around, and I suppose you can sell also your EFI tank to recoup some of the cost. But I get it - you just want to go with what you know. Can't fault anyone for that. Plans can and do change on projects of this scale.

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  #754  
Old 03-07-2022, 05:32 AM
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Hard to imagine a fuel tank, straps, and mechanical fuel pump costing less than a bypass regulator. Perhaps you had an old mechanical fuel pump laying around, and I suppose you can sell also your EFI tank to recoup some of the cost. But I get it - you just want to go with what you know. Can't fault anyone for that. Plans can and do change on projects of this scale.
I had the pump from original plan, it’s the Holley 8 pounder. I’m not really worried about it “keeping up” because the cam has a 6500 redline and I would never spin that thing that high plus it will never see slicks and I will never get traction so. This is a really fun driver, that’s all.

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  #755  
Old 03-07-2022, 05:35 AM
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Originally Posted by ZeGermanHam View Post
Hard to imagine a fuel tank, straps, and mechanical fuel pump costing less than a bypass regulator. Perhaps you had an old mechanical fuel pump laying around, and I suppose you can sell also your EFI tank to recoup some of the cost. But I get it - you just want to go with what you know. Can't fault anyone for that. Plans can and do change on projects of this scale.
Regulator was close to 225 bucks. The tank was 175 plus I had a 3/8 sending unit from original plan. Probably didn’t come out even but it worked in my head and yes the tank is for sale in the parts section.

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  #756  
Old 03-07-2022, 09:51 AM
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Was the fuel pump eccentric installed when the motor was built?

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  #757  
Old 03-07-2022, 10:32 AM
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Was the fuel pump eccentric installed when the motor was built?
Yes for this very reason. Just in case. This is an amateur restoration at best BUT even though I have mental problems it made me a thinker. You won’t be able to say that I didn’t plan for every thinkable contingency 😂

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  #758  
Old 03-07-2022, 11:01 AM
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Yes for this very reason. Just in case. This is an amateur restoration at best BUT even though I have mental problems it made me a thinker. You won’t be able to say that I didn’t plan for every thinkable contingency 😂
That’s good, I was hesitant to ask lol. The car looks great. Looking forward to hearing it once it’s all together..

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  #759  
Old 03-07-2022, 12:38 PM
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Regulator was close to 225 bucks. The tank was 175 plus I had a 3/8 sending unit from original plan. Probably didn’t come out even but it worked in my head and yes the tank is for sale in the parts section.
Yowza, what regulator was it? My Aeromotive bypass regulator only cost $175, and would have allowed you to keep the EFI tank and straps, etc. Did you have to buy a new mechanical fuel pump, too, or did you have one from before?

Anyway, I'm excited to see your car get some miles put on it soon. I hear the last 10% of finishing a job like this is the most tedious part.

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  #760  
Old 03-07-2022, 03:36 PM
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Originally Posted by ZeGermanHam View Post
Yowza, what regulator was it? My Aeromotive bypass regulator only cost $175, and would have allowed you to keep the EFI tank and straps, etc. Did you have to buy a new mechanical fuel pump, too, or did you have one from before?

Anyway, I'm excited to see your car get some miles put on it soon. I hear the last 10% of finishing a job like this is the most tedious part.
Like I said in post #703 https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...postcount=703:

"If you decide to do a carb there is no reason to get rid of the EFI fuel tank. Just install a universal bypass regulator like the Aeromotive 13301 or Trickflow TFS-27001 (they are the same regulator but Trickflow saves you about $50) and run the high pressure pump with a carb. This will solve any potential fuel starvation issues assuming you use the right size fuel line. I did this with my Q-Jet prior to going with the Sniper.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a...iAAEgLjv_D_BwE

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/t...SABEgKBVvD_BwE


The Aeromotive 13301 is $196 and the Trick Flow is $142, fwiw

All that being said - looking forward to seeing video of the first drive!!!

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'69 Firebird 400/461, 290+ E D-Ports, HR 230/236, 4l80E, 8.5 Rear, 3.55 gears
'64 LeMans 400/461, #16 Heads, HR 230/236, TKO600, 9inch Rear, 3.89 gears
'69 LeMans Vert, 350, #47 heads: Non-running project
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