[Bobalong]

I replaced my 400 turbo with a 200R4 transmission.

Yes I know they make a shifter to replace the factory assembly, and letters PRNDSL

Right now the factory shifter makes the selections by feel, except for the Park position. (all the forward)

So when I pull the shifter the first detent of course is R . . . . .then thru the numbers till it is all the way back, which of course is 1 st gear.

My problem is shifting from 1st to 2nd. Since there are no notches similar to a his / her shifter, 95 % of the time I end up sliding right past 2nd into third.
There is just such a small amount of difference it is almost impossible to shift to 2nd without sliding right past it into 3rd, then back to 2nd if that's what I need.

Have any of you with 200 - 700R4 transmissions come up with a solution ?

[camerjeff]

I used a conversion kit from shiftworks, it was almost $200 but came with everything needed including a new cable to convert my 66 2-speed shifter into a 4-speed shifter, looked stock exept for the new indicator that had the extra gears on it.

Other than that you could try and modify your shifters detents. But for less than $200 delivered you can just install the parts that come to you.

[Steve C.]

The B&M Quicksilver shifter works well.


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[gto65lvr]

X2 on the quick silver and it fits under the console nicely. At least 64-67 consoles

[Bobalong]

Well it looks like Shiftworks has upgraded their interweb considerably since I visited it a year ago.
Lots of information not previously on there.

And they have an easy way to send them questions.
I'll see what they say.

[Navy Horn 16]

I got the shiftworks kit in my TA. No problem finding the gears, except when really excited at the track. I accidentally went from 1-3 (after spinning in 1st) and still ran a 13.0 at 104....and was in in OD about about 3/4 track.

[Bobalong]

Originally Posted by Navy Horn 16

I got the shiftworks kit in my TA. No problem finding the gears, except when really excited at the track. I accidentally went from 1-3 (after spinning in 1st) and still ran a 13.0 at 104....and was in in OD about about 3/4 track.

I messaged shiftworks and his response was less than encouraging. Here's what he said . . . .Hi Bob



I think the best solution would be one of the Rally style shifters GM made for that year. The handle could be pushed to the right and would hit a stop for second gear.



Our shifter conversion would offer no better results for you than you already have, and our shifters are not race style shifters.



Herb

Not sure how that will fare using a shifter designed for a Turbo 400 (3 speed)
and hooking it up to a 4 speed automatic. Think I got the short "really don't want to mess with this guy" answer.
Navy Horn, looks like you have better luck with his product than he admits.

Guess I need to think on what to do. Really hate to install an aftermarket, (B&M) non factory looking shifter into my console.

[Steve C.]

Why wouldn't the Shiftworks kit work to modify the factory shifter?

In part...

"You CAN retain the Original Factory Shifter LOOK when upgrading your transmission. Shiftworks® kits allow you to modify the shifter to function properly with different transmissions."

http://www.shiftworks.com


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[Navy Horn 16]

Originally Posted by Bobalong

Not sure how that will fare using a shifter designed for a Turbo 400 (3 speed)
and hooking it up to a 4 speed automatic. Think I got the short "really don't want to mess with this guy" answer.
Navy Horn, looks like you have better luck with his product than he admits.

I'm not sure if mine works the way it does by design, or if it just the way the modification sorted itself out.

I have positive stop (have to push the button down to move it) in Park and Reverse. If I am in Drive or OD, there is a positive stop on both ends of that, and each has a detent. I don't have any electronics to the transmission and run a non-lockup convertor. Being able to easily kick down to Drive without having to worry about hitting second is nice.

I have detents for low and second, and can shift L, S, D, OD without having to mash the button. There is a nice little click for each, but not a positive stop. Adrenaline, noise, and lack of track time can add up to missing that detent when trying to print a cool looking time slip. The good news is that the "failure" isn't dangerous and it's hard to mess anything up with the mistake that I made.

I did the research on if a Rally Shifter would work in my car. It would, but not with the Shiftworks Modification. There would be some slop between D and OD and adjusting the cable would be tedious work even for a pro.

If you do want to go that route, these guys have those shifters in stock, and I've bought from them before. Good folks.

http://www.secondgengraveyard.com/

[Evil Stu]

Designed for the 200R4, and with a stiff shift kit and a couple of hundred extra horses over the original application they work great.....

[lust4speed]

Maybe I just got lucky or my cable is adjusted better. My 1-2-3 shift positions on the 200-4R are the same as my old T400 - so the ratchet shifter works the same. My 4th gear is now where neutral was located on the His-&-Hers and reverse is halfway between the neutral stop and park position.

While the ratchet works as it should, I hated using it with the T400 and the feeling hasn't changed. I have always rested my hand on the console and used my thumb and finger when racing to urge the shifter into the next gear with the shifter in the standard slot. Only time I ever double shifted was using the His side of the shifter.

[Bobalong]

Originally Posted by lust4speed

Maybe I just got lucky or my cable is adjusted better. My 1-2-3 shift positions on the 200-4R are the same as my old T400 - so the ratchet shifter works the same. My 4th gear is now where neutral was located on the His-&-Hers and reverse is halfway between the neutral stop and park position.

While the ratchet works as it should, I hated using it with the T400 and the feeling hasn't changed. I have always rested my hand on the console and used my thumb and finger when racing to urge the shifter into the next gear with the shifter in the standard slot. Only time I ever double shifted was using the His side of the shifter.

Your post makes me wonder if I need to tweak my shifter, cable, and everything related. I have to have a full grip on the shift lever to move from 1st to 2nd.
I need to release the cable from the transmission and as a process of elimination determine if something is bound up, or in need of some lube or ??

I noticed shiftworks had two different length brackets that go on the actual stud on the transmission. The stud that clocks in order to click to each position
PRNDDSL. Maybe a longer bracket would change the leverage, make it easier to clock. BUT might change all the geometry, and then not be able to get it in park, or first.

Aren't expensive, might be worth a try.

[Bobalong]

Originally Posted by Evil Stu

Designed for the 200R4, and with a stiff shift kit and a couple of hundred extra horses over the original application they work great.....

That's an interesting conversion. From an 80's Hurst olds ?

[Navy Horn 16]

Originally Posted by lust4speed

I have always rested my hand on the console and used my thumb and finger when racing to urge the shifter into the next gear with the shifter in the standard slot.

Solid technique. I need to give that a try.

[Overkillphil]

I have the B&M Quicksilver in my Formula (console model) with a 200-4R and while its good for rachet shifting, its a PITA driving around especially when doing forward/reverse stuff like moving the car around the garage and driveway. (There may be an "anti-theft" advantage though.)

I like Evil Stu's Lightning Rod setup but am not aware they are available for our cars. I once looked for a set from a G-Body Hurst Olds and was shocked at the prices they were commanding. I always thought they'd be a good candidate for a remake by one of the shifter companies.

In the meantime, I'm planning on ditching my Quicksilver soon and going back to the stock T/A rachet shifter as I have in my other Firebirds with 200-4R's.

[jaycoburn]

Replaced the st300 in my '66 Lemans with a built 200R4 last month & used the Shiftworks adapter & am getting the same results as Navy Horn. Clear stopping points @ all detents. Can bump shift all but P & R.

[Bobalong]

Originally Posted by jaycoburn

Replaced the st300 in my '66 Lemans with a built 200R4 last month & used the Shiftworks adapter & am getting the same results as Navy Horn. Clear stopping points @ all detents. Can bump shift all but P & R.

Interesting.

Scratching my head why shiftworks wasn't more descriptive about their product in their response to me. Whatever.

You guys would be great sales reps