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#1
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torque converter to flex plate gap
Okay, the good news is that my new 463 stroker is now between the frame rails of the TransAm. The 403 Olds served well but it was time to move on. However, when I went to bolt the converter to the flex plate I discovered that the converter body was hitting the flex plate bolt heads before the pads touched the flex plate.
The gap is .032. Can I shim this or am I looking at moving the tranny to access the flex plate bolts and changing them out for ones with a thinner head? I did notice after the fact that the old bolts for the 403 have thinner heads than the new ones I got from Ames. Wishing now I had paid more attention.
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69 Bird w/1970 400 block(409 cubes), #64 heads, hyd. roller, Q-jet by Jeff E., original interior, ps, pdb, th350, and 3.73 gears. Pump gas, street driven muscle. 3800 lbs. race weight. Best, 11.39 @118, my son's car. 79 T/A w/463, Scat crank, Eagle rods, Icon pistons, Lunati solid roller, 262/270, KRE 325 heads, Northwind intake, QF950 carb, full interior, ps, pdb, th350, and 3.73 gears. Pump gas, 3650 lbs. race weight. 10.68 @ 126 so far... no tuning yet. |
#2
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depends on where your converter is located...<----> If i am understanding your statement the converter is hitting your fleplate crankshaft bolts and you are .030 from the converter mounting pads contacting the flex plate!
Is the flywheel on correctly (some have a raised areas where the converter pads bolt on)? If you are only lacking .032 yes you can put a 1/8" thick washer in between the flex and converter...BUT you must make sure the converter NOSE in located IN THE CRANKSHAFT!!!.(..don't want it getting all weird.) AND make sure your converter has more than teh 1/8" that it can go INTO the tranny...(don't want it to bottom out in the pump) This should NOT be an issue...but check it anyway |
#3
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Thanks for the response. Yea, even with shims I will have more than 1/8" clearance between the converter and the pump. Still not decided what I want to do and may disconnect the tranny and move it back enough to remove and replace the flex plate bolts.
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69 Bird w/1970 400 block(409 cubes), #64 heads, hyd. roller, Q-jet by Jeff E., original interior, ps, pdb, th350, and 3.73 gears. Pump gas, street driven muscle. 3800 lbs. race weight. Best, 11.39 @118, my son's car. 79 T/A w/463, Scat crank, Eagle rods, Icon pistons, Lunati solid roller, 262/270, KRE 325 heads, Northwind intake, QF950 carb, full interior, ps, pdb, th350, and 3.73 gears. Pump gas, 3650 lbs. race weight. 10.68 @ 126 so far... no tuning yet. |
#4
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It’s more work, but that would be the best option since it would allow the nose of the converter to seat deeper into the end of the Crank.
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Wernher Von Braun warned before his retirement from NASA back in 1972, that the next world war would be against the ETs! And he was not talking about 1/8 or 1/4 mile ETs! 1) 1940s 100% silver 4 cup tea server set. Two dry rotted 14 x 10 Micky Thompson slicks. 1) un-mailed in gift coupon from a 1972 box of corn flakes. Two pairs of brown leather flip flops, never seen more then 2 mph. Education is what your left with once you forget things! |
#5
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Quote:
FWIW, A little trick we line mechanics do when just changing the flex plate, is use either long bolts with the heads removed, or all thread to keep the alignment and enable you to just slide it back, and then forward again. Just 2 bolts in the lowest holes keeps every thing from getting away from you, and aligns everything when going back together. on a lift, you can swap a flexplate in 45 minutes or so. A little longer lying on your back. Saves the time of R&R ing the transmission. Saves taking off cooling lines, speedometer cable, and crossmember most times. No need for a tranny jack either if you follow the tips outlined. I also use a couple short pieces of 2X4 shims between the block and transmission bell to give you working room. I used to use a wrecking bar between the engine and flexplate to slide it rearward, same bar to slide it forward again. Usually there is enough room on the front tranny yoke that you can leave the driveshaft in, but if not, you'll have to remove it. Good luck, I hope this helps you get it done. |
#6
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Check the back of the flexplate/crank and see if the bolts are too long through the crank flange.
Lots of times one buys the 'flexplate' bolts and get flywheel bolts which have taller heads and longer thread length. This extra length could hit the block on rotation. Have you rotated the crank since mounting flexplate? Also do as Sirrotica said on getting the thinner head for bolts.
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John Wallace - johnta1 Pontiac Power RULES !!! www.wallaceracing.com Winner of Top Class at Pontiac Nationals, 2004 Cordova Winner of Quick 16 At Ames 2004 Pontiac Tripower Nats KRE's MR-1 - 1st 5 second Pontiac block ever! "Every man has a right to his own opinion, but no man has a right to be wrong in his facts." "People demand freedom of speech to make up for the freedom of thought which they avoid." – Socrates |
#7
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Sirrotica, thanks for the tips; if I go that route it would save time and effort.
johnta1, I did get the correct bolts and I have rotated the engine several times so no issue there. As I mentioned in my first post, I should have used the old bolts which have a much thinner head. Just didn't think about it making a difference at the time. If I had a stock converter this wouldn't be an issue as the larger diameter would have put the thickest part of the converter beyond the flex plate bolt heads, at least I think that would be the case.
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69 Bird w/1970 400 block(409 cubes), #64 heads, hyd. roller, Q-jet by Jeff E., original interior, ps, pdb, th350, and 3.73 gears. Pump gas, street driven muscle. 3800 lbs. race weight. Best, 11.39 @118, my son's car. 79 T/A w/463, Scat crank, Eagle rods, Icon pistons, Lunati solid roller, 262/270, KRE 325 heads, Northwind intake, QF950 carb, full interior, ps, pdb, th350, and 3.73 gears. Pump gas, 3650 lbs. race weight. 10.68 @ 126 so far... no tuning yet. |
#8
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yup bolt head makes a diff and in the racing world we are putting shim between convertor and flex plate all the time
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