[TAKerry]

I will preface by saying I have no idea how to build a motor! I am getting ready to put one together for the TATA I am restoring. It came to me in pieces and I have been trying to sort things out. It appears I have the correct 400 block #481988, and manual transmission. Also I think the crank is right #496452. 6x heads with a (4) stamped on one of the flat spots- what does this mean?
I have 2 manifolds that came with the car.
First is iron and I believe it is right #100003395, the other is an aluminum one:
Edelbrock P4B, which I think will work on a 400.
I would like to have a bit more hp than stock, but not looking for a racecar. Can the iron intake be as productive as the Ebrock? I would really like to keep the car as close to stock but if there is going to be a big diff I will swap that out. Otherwise is there a market for the Ebrock ? I have one on my 77 and it runs great but an original wasn't an option when that motor was built.
Thanks
Kerry

[steve25]

The dash 4 stamping on the heads means they are the correct 89 to 92 CC heads for the higher performance TA motor as opposed to the bread and Butter 101 CC heads.

I would stick with the factory Intake as it's not a restriction on those stock 6X heads.

A nice gain in power can come from opening up the rear of that shaker scoop and jetting the secondary side of the Carb richer as can adding a true duel Exh with out the cat if you can get away with it in your state?

[TAKerry]

Originally Posted by steve25

The dash 4 stamping on the heads means they are the correct 89 to 92 CC heads for the higher performance TA motor as opposed to the bread and Butter 101 CC heads.

I would stick with the factory Intake as it's not a restriction on those stock 6X heads.

A nice gain in power can come from opening up the rear of that shaker scoop and jetting the secondary side of the Carb richer as can adding a true duel Exh with out the cat if you can get away with it in your state?

Thanks for the info. Good to know about the heads, I guess they are correct as well. On the 400 in my 77 scoop is open and I do have dual pypes. Motor was built up a bit and plenty of power. Looking to do similar with this one.

[Navy Horn 16]

The Edelbrock P4B is an EARLY after-market intake. Is the carb flange square or spreadbore? The P4B intake isn't anything special and I can't imagine that there is much of a market for it. Maybe a $100 bill at a swap meet if it is shiny. The factory intake will be fine, as long as you don't care about weight and don't do anything radical with your cam that would require more flow.

I don't know what your budget is, but with that base set of parts and looking for a little more HP than street...I"d spend it on an RPM Performer Intake, Drop Base air filter, cam, headers and as free-flowing exhaust as you can get away with in your state.

[TAKerry]

Thanks again. I see them f/s in the $300 range on ebay, new they are about $350. I was going to list at $250 obo. I already have too much stuff laying around no need in putting it on the shelf just because.

[Cliff R]

I have a couple of early P4B's here, can't give them away but they are the "square" flange version.......

[android 211]

Cliff tested the P4B against the cast iron and it looked like performance was similar, didn't it? I've noticed there are different versions of the P4B. Some have thick tapered runners and some have thinner cross section runners more like a Performer. I believe the tapered runner versions are better for performance motors. The other version might feel better on mild cam low compression motors. The square (Holley) flange version would be preferred for EFI throttle body installations.

[ta man]

For your goals I'd use the cast intake and a quadrajet, bring the compression up to 9.25 select a nice cam add free flowing exhaust. Keep it simple and stock appearing.

[NeighborsComplaint]

The square bore version (Holley) of the P4B will not clear a HEI distributor, the spreadbore (Quadrajet) version will. You should check hood clearance with it if your car has a shaker hood. About all you will gain is the weight savings of the aluminum over a cast iron unit. I'd stick with the cast iron factory intake in your build.

A stock rebuild with forged pistons, reconditioned rods with ARP bolts (which may cost as much as new, forged aftermarket rods so check with your machine shop of choice), a good valve job with viton positive valve stem seals, new oil pump and timing chain set, and a street performance camshaft and lifters with matching springs and retainers would complete the build. Your stock HEI and Quadrajet will be fine.

You're going to get a multitude of camshaft recommendations here but a Melling MEL-SPC7 (Pontiac factory 068 camshaft) is a sure bet for reliable street performance and good driveability.

[b-man]

The iron intake and matching carburetor will more than meet your performance goals.

The fact that you’re not messing around with the throttle cable bracket, fuel line, vacuum lines, crankcase breather tube, worrying about fit of your shaker air cleaner and everything else associated with swapping to an aftermarket intake and carb is something that makes keeping the factory intake and carb a smart thing to do.

[TAKerry]

Thanks for all of the info. I have pretty much decided to go with the Iron intake. Like y'all have said it looks like the only advantage is about 40lbs. Im not looking to quarter mile so I think it'll be fine.
I had a local engine builder do my 77. He does a lot of race motors and has a good rep in the area. He also knows Pontiac motors very well. He said he will help me at what ever level I may need it. I really would like to build as much so I can advance to the next level of car ownership. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I have all of the body work done and would like to start the motor work soon. The motor was completely disassembled when I got it, thus the reason I did the number crunching on all of the loose parts. I do have a complete 400 that I can go to for reference. I have read Rocky R.'s book several times and ready to dive in.

[TAKerry]

What should I look for in pistons? Also, the block has been stripped bare and has a bit of surface rust, I assume a machinist can take care of everything. Is that whom will determine piston size?

[TAKerry]

One other question regarding the iron manifold, I have seen ytube vids. of guys honing them with a die grinder to match the gaskets. Is this something that can be done in a home shop (me) with success or does it need to be refined so much that a machinist should do the job. I am not trying to cheap out, I will get the best I can afford, even if takes a bit longer to get the job done, but if there is something I can do along the way that would be great too.

[455-4+1]

Having run a factory iron intake (a dreaded late EGR version) deep into the 11's at 124mph in a 4000lb street car, i would say your decision to keep the factory intake is a good one,, 😊.
Not to mention the fitment bonuses mentioned by Cliff and others.
Check out Jim Hands info on spacers etc if you have room. Even 1/2" can make a difference if you can fit it in (possibly in conjunction with a dropped base)

[Kevspontiacs@aol.com]

Kerry check the gaskets with the heads first, you def don't want the intake side bigger than the head opening. Optimal is both the same size, acceptable is head slightly larger. And yes you can do it at home. Just slightly taper it back into the port, i took a piece of wire and bent it to the port shape and used it as a guage to keep somewhat of a consistency from port to port

[TAKerry]

Thanks, what would you recommend for gaskets?