FAQ |
Members List |
Social Groups |
Calendar |
Search |
Today's Posts |
|
The Body Shop TECH General questions that don't fit in any other forum |
Reply |
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
|
||||
|
||||
PPG Help. Old Paint
OK, so how old is old when it comes to stored paint? I have a full gallon of DBU9700 and the drr1185 reactive reducer that goes with it. I purchased it back in the 90s and never used it. Now I am painting my 86 fiero gt and its black. The DBU would be perfect. Ive used old stuff before...8 or 10 years old, but this is pushin nearly 20 years. I havent popped the lid but it shakes just fine and sounds healthy inside.
My main concern is did DBU change over the years? Is the clearcoat they sell today compatible with DBU from the 90s? I would think if they changed the formula too much they would have changed the part #s too but who knows? My thaughts are that if its not separated and settled when I open it that its probably OK to use. Any opinions? Anyone else use paint from their archives with no issues? |
#2
|
||||
|
||||
I would toss it.The activator is certainly no good after all these years and the base is another risk I would not take. If the stuff was exposed to any freezing temps over the past twenty years, that would also clinch it.
|
#3
|
|||
|
|||
Try it out on a test piece with some new reducer and see what happens if the can isn't rusted out when you open it up.
|
#4
|
||||
|
||||
Definitely toss the activator. Then with new activator (assuming the formulations haven't changed) you might try a test panel. Or just ask the supplier or a body shop that uses PPG and see what they think.
|
#5
|
|||
|
|||
Yeah, no if you have any kind of labor wrapped up in doing this, I would not chance it. Tops for shelf life in moderate storage conditions should be 6 years. Not saying that all paint products are "dead" at 6 years, but the odds start going against you. Irgoatmike
|
#6
|
|||
|
|||
Does someone have a source for any of the information presented (and not just hearsay)?
I've read a lot of conflicting advice on 'old paint' over the years and to be honest, little of it makes sense to me - especially about the 'freezing' bit. At what temp does solvent-based paint freeze? I'm going out on a limb and thinking it's at a lower temp than water. Do paint companies suspend shipments to Alaska/Canada/North Dakota/etc. for several months out of the year? Also, if it does freeze, what is the result (on a chemical level) that makes it 'go bad'? And what exactly does 'go bad' mean? What exactly fails? Also, what happens (at a chemical level) after a seemingly arbitrary 6 years that would make basecoat go bad? Can anybody point me to specific answers about this? Not trying to be an @ss - I'm truly curious. |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
I would not use it myself. Activator will certainly be bad and who knows about the base. You may want to talk directly to PPG but I'm guessing you already know the answer!
__________________
My money talks to me-it usually says goodbye! |
#8
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
Yeh, you pretty much nailed it. There is a lot of conflicting info and opinions out there I found while searching which is why I asked. I may just try a test piece. Ive had the guys at the paint store give me both good advice and terrible advice in the past. Im going to ask him but Im not sure Ill have faith in his answer either way. For what its worth, its always been inside the home in steady temperatures. Im not a gambling man, so for the lack of facts Im probably not gonna chance it. However, when I do get to spraying the car I may just mix up some of the old stuff and spray an old tool box or something.....If it holds up... a year or so down the road Ill have my answer. |
#9
|
||||
|
||||
I would say to put some trust in the advice given here by 400 4spd.
He's been in the old car restoration business for a very long time and has restored hundreds of cars which includes a good number of high-end muscle cars.
__________________
1964 Tempest Coupe LS3/4L70E/3.42 1964 Le Mans Convertible 421 HO/TH350/2.56 2002 WS6 Convertible LS1/4L60E/3.23 |
#10
|
|||
|
|||
Don't use that product!
I'm taking auto body at the local trade school. Not a novice but I've restored a few cars. The first thing I learned is products change and the chemicals are different. Fillers,primer,activator,etc. So therefore the paint might seem ok. Chemically it may blister raise,colors separate. It's definetly not worth it at all! Imagine you paint this car and all your work is done for nothing? Cause you aren't happy with your results. Or if it's for a customer. Paint there car twice! I'm just saying.
|
#11
|
|||
|
|||
old paint
Quote:
|
#12
|
|||
|
|||
Hope this helps.
Latex paint cannot tolerate a freeze without some negative consequence. In many cases, it may not be noticeable in the can or during application; however, long-term durability will suffer relative to how hard the paint freezes.
Oil paint, in most cases, can take almost any temperature. There are some formulations that can 'shock' if exposed to extreme cold. A paint that has been 'shocked' will have the different ingredients (oil, resin, pigment, solvent and additives) separate. Once the different ingredients have separated, they are very difficult to remix. As a general rule, keep all paint in a freeze-protected area. |
#13
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
Sounds good to me! |
#14
|
||||
|
||||
Well...in case anyone is wondering I definitely decided against using it. Im just not a gambler and all your responses are great. Thanks again guys.
|
Reply |
|
|