[lrust]

The gas tank in my 67 GTO is leaking and I have to take it out anyway for repairs. I want to install baffles to minimize fuel slosh away from pickup under acceleration. I want to keep the stock style tank for a couple reasons: already have 1/2" pickup and return in a factory style pickup from RobbMc, want to keep factory fuel gage, need large tank for drag and drive, need trunk space for drag and drive.
I am hoping it is not full of rust and trash when I take it apart. Anyone have pictures from doing this or suggestions? Thanks in advance.
Lowell

[steve25]

I can only envision doing such being a great amount of work and if done having a high probability of new leaks after you get it all stitched it back up.

[PAUL K]

I used a trick factory tank in my 80 Trans Am. I wanted to keep the "stock" look. Once the car started running solid tens the pressure became inconsistent. After trying a bunch of things to improve the situation I finally gave up and went with a sump.

What worked best was adding a pick up point in the lower left (location probably doesn't matter) of the tank. We used 1/2 inch tubing that extended towards the rear center of the tank.

[65madgoat]

Waaaaaay easier to just buy a new baffled tank that still looks stock.

[lrust]

Originally Posted by 65madgoat

Waaaaaay easier to just buy a new baffled tank that still looks stock.

hmmm.....who sells them?

[65madgoat]

Tanks Inc and/or Rick's Tanks and others.

https://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/p...rod/prd419.htm


Also instead of modding your tank easier to start with a new cheap Spectra tank and add baffles if you can't find one already with baffles. But unless you are autocrossing not much need I see for baffles.

[PAUL K]

Originally Posted by 65madgoat

Waaaaaay easier to just buy a new baffled tank that still looks stock.

Not many folks making those in 1990

These young guys are spoiled lol

[Dragncar]

I just pulled my stock tank that I modified with 1/2" pickup silver soldered in with return and drain plug added. What a pain. After I added the back brace to the 9" I could not get it out. I put the frame up on blocks and pulled the coil springs and was barely able to jack it up with jack backwards under the car and get it out.
A 5 gallon fuel cell is going in.
Not sure which pump I am going to put in. I have a 160gph Speedmaster Mallory copy that would be the easiest. I can just use the 1/2" return from the carb mounted regulator already set up.
Or have a used BG 400 pump I bought here. You can return right from the pump on those things but going that route is all new to me. 5/8 to the pump and return.
Robb Mc told me they did a test on a Pro Stock car and the fuel required was not even 150 gph.
So I have a fuel pressure gauge and 2 vacuum gauges, one crankcase and one manifold set up on the cowl for testing. If the 160 won't do it the big pump is going on.
Think I might get some sort of camera set up on the dash so I don;t actually have to watch them down the track.
I also did my stock tank mods back in the 90s. Had to do it all yourself in those days. Part of the fun of Hot Rodding IMO.

[Mr Twister]

New rust free tank plus a Holley HydraMat sounds like a good combo for you.

[krisr]

Originally Posted by Mr Twister

New rust free tank plus a Holley HydraMat sounds like a good combo for you.

I'd be trying this. I dropped a Holley Muscle car EFI fuel module in my 66 tank and i'm astounded that it's never surged since I put the Sniper2 on and i've run it pretty low on fuel. The module is a drop in replacement for the level sender that has a Walbro 255lph fuel pump and small hydramat on the suction side of the pump. Very happy with it so far!

[Tim Corcoran]

Another option is a new tank with an in tank electric fuel pump. No more problems with fuel delivery and the tank looks stock. Tanks Inc sells them and not as pricey as you might think.

[Tom Vaught]

I have a custom Tanks,inc tank with the normal baffles etc.
There is a place near Chicago that sells a oval shaped DUAL fuel pump mount that bolts
in place of the normal Tanks,inc fuel mount/pick-up.

I mounted two electric fuel pumps on the mount but had room to mount 3 EFI pumps.

One pump would cover the fuel requirement but I wanted two pumps in case one failed on the road. Simple power switch to each pump allows swapping to the other fuel pump (IN SECONDS) if an issue.

Tanks, inc Pontiac Tank With extra baffling, dual 400 lph pumps, custom mount for the pumps, and fuel tank fuel sender works with factory gage.

A 1000+ HP capability fuel system (Vortech Supercharger) that looks stock. Tank is baffled as received from Tanks,inc.

Tom V.

[65 Lamnas]

Originally Posted by Tom Vaught

I have a custom Tanks,inc tank with the normal baffles etc.
There is a place near Chicago that sells a oval shaped DUAL fuel pump mount that bolts
in place of the normal Tanks,inc fuel mount/pick-up.

I mounted two electric fuel pumps on the mount but had room to mount 3 EFI pumps.

One pump would cover the fuel requirement but I wanted two pumps in case one failed on the road. Simple power switch to each pump allows swapping to the other fuel pump (IN SECONDS) if an issue.

Tanks, inc Pontiac Tank With extra baffling, dual 400 lph pumps, custom mount for the pumps, and fuel tank fuel sender works with factory gage.

A 1000+ HP capability fuel system (Vortech Supercharger) that looks stock. Tank is baffled as received from Tanks,inc.

Tom V.

Interesting thought regarding the 2nd pump.....what do you like to run for a regulator?? I've had mixed success, but ultimately went with Magnafuel/Magna Flow for steady and predictable pressure control.

[R 70 Judge]

A new tank would be the way to go. I have a Tanks Inc 20.5 gallon in my car and I’m happy with it. I’m using the Holley 12-173 kit that has dual Walbro 450’s. I went with a floatless sending until for the fuel level. A small kick-out had to be added to the tank get the dual pumps to fit right. Extra baffling was added as well.