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Old 01-23-2023, 07:37 AM
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I found this which I found to be a pretty good document concerning PCV and crankcase ventilation. A good read. >

https://speedtechperformance.com/wp-...entilation.pdf

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Old 01-23-2023, 09:05 AM
Jbyers1956 Jbyers1956 is offline
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The motor in my 64 was modified by the po. So, I purchased a pcv from ME Wagner. I do believe it works. Wasn't cheap. Slowed down oil leaks. And from a dead stop the car acceleration is better. It feels smoother. With a modified engine, finding the right valve to work may be difficult. Look them up, see if you think it's worth the time, and $$. Hope this helps.

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Old 01-23-2023, 09:23 AM
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Thanks again for the informative answers. Mine is an engine that is raced and regularly driven on the street. I will replace one of the valve cover breathers with a PCV connected to the inlet vacuum and see if it helps with the silly little drippy leaks.

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Old 01-23-2023, 12:15 PM
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Well-written article.
His engine data: 6.4L engine 3 cfm of airflow in right where it should be.
Average 6.5 liter to 7.5 liter would need that additional 1 cfm of air flow as far
as crankcase pressure removal and corrosive gas removal (to be burned).

Thanks

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Old 01-24-2023, 01:04 AM
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Does it actually state the CFM of a PCV when ordering? I can't see it mentioned anywhere.

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Old 01-24-2023, 01:10 AM
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I had enough dealing with PVC’s and got a vacuum pump….problem solved

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Old 01-24-2023, 01:05 PM
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JL -

Can you share your mounting setup for the MightyMouse can? Did you use one of theirs and if so which one?

Thanks.

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Old 01-24-2023, 01:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mklinger View Post
JL -

Can you share your mounting setup for the MightyMouse can? Did you use one of theirs and if so which one?

Thanks.
I used one of their universal mounting types and I have it attached to one of the posts on my torker II intake manifold. It does okay, but I'm not thrilled with how I mounted it. I may try and get it on the firewall at some point because I have to capture it towards the bottom of the can currently and it vibrates a bit.

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Old 01-27-2023, 02:50 AM
wakesupremo wakesupremo is offline
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Originally Posted by mklinger View Post
I found this which I found to be a pretty good document concerning PCV and crankcase ventilation. A good read. >

https://speedtechperformance.com/wp-...entilation.pdf
A very informative read, thank you for posting the link. It doesn't however, mention if its important to put the PCV valve in the correct valve cover. Is there a preferred or correct way?

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Old 01-27-2023, 09:16 AM
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I don’t think it matters as long as the PCV system has a good, clean fresh air source and that could be either valve cover. The factory used the passenger side. Since the valve covers would be more prone to sucking oil vs. a factory valley cover PCV valve location, a catch can might be in order to keep the dirty side air clean at the manifold.

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Last edited by mklinger; 01-27-2023 at 09:43 AM.
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Old 01-27-2023, 09:32 AM
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Thank you again for the information.

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Old 01-27-2023, 04:41 PM
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I think there is a preferred side for the PCV; but I also suspect there's not a huge difference.

Has to do with the direction of crank rotation, which affects the direction of windage, which may/may not affect the amount of oil mist pulled up to the valve cover.

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Old 01-27-2023, 09:39 PM
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I think there is a preferred side for the PCV; but I also suspect there's not a huge difference.

Has to do with the direction of crank rotation, which affects the direction of windage, which may/may not affect the amount of oil mist pulled up to the valve cover.
My wife had a 302 Ford years ago that had the PCV in the left valve cover (drivers side) and (I can't remember exactly) but I had a 350 SBC that also had it in the left cover.
FWIW

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Old 02-05-2023, 09:59 AM
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Default Updated CCV / PCV

Ok, so after a lot of research and thought, here’s where I settled on updating the PCV and CCV on the car.

#10’s from both valve covers to clean air source between air filter and throttle body.
Eliminate the PCV valve, sourced a 1/2” barb to #8 male adapter at the valley cover.
Installed a Mighty Mouse PCV can.
#8 from valley cover to MM.
#6 from MM to PCV port on throttle body.

The car has a Fitech, I did have to tweak the IAC but beyond that no issues.

Thoughts and opinions on this setup welcome.



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Old 02-05-2023, 07:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mklinger View Post

#10’s from both valve covers to clean air source between air filter and throttle body.
Eliminate the PCV valve, sourced a 1/2” barb to #8 male adapter at the valley cover.
Installed a Mighty Mouse PCV can.
#8 from valley cover to MM.
#6 from MM to PCV port on throttle body.

The car has a Fitech, I did have to tweak the IAC but beyond that no issues.

Thoughts and opinions on this setup welcome.
Enormously expensive and complex for no good reason. This is a "three hundred dollar solution" to a twenty-dollar problem. What Mighty Mouse seems to do best is vacuum-clean people's wallets. Hey, it's your money not mine. As long as you're happy.

There's a PCV valve (or at least a restriction) in the "Mighty Mouse PCV can"? The Mighty Mouse web site talks about a "PCV can", but I can't find that product on the site. All I see is "Draft cans". IF (big IF) you have unrestricted flow through your Dash 6 hose into the PCV port on the throttle body, I can see why you needed to "tweak" the IAC valve.

I can't figure out why the Mighty Mouse can has a filter on top. Are crankcase fumes are being vented out that filter? You've already got a fresh-air inlet to the engine via the connection between the engine air filter and throttle body, to BOTH valve covers via Dash 10 hose. The Mighty Mouse filter is not for air inlet. And excess crankcase fumes beyond what the PCV system can handle would be vented from valve covers to the air cleaner via your Dash Ten hoses. So I have no idea what the Mighty Mouse filter is supposed to accomplish.


Last edited by Schurkey; 02-05-2023 at 07:56 PM.
  #36  
Old 02-05-2023, 08:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Schurkey View Post
Enormously expensive and complex for no good reason. This is a "three hundred dollar solution" to a twenty-dollar problem. What Mighty Mouse seems to do best is vacuum-clean people's wallets. Hey, it's your money not mine. As long as you're happy.
Have to agree totally with the comment above.

If the guy feels better at the end of the day buying the "complex" system vs the factory engineered systems that has been around since the early 60s, go for it. It is his money BUT personally I have to totally agree with Schurkey that a $20 FACTORY system would work just as well with a less complex group of parts.

Usually if the Factory Parts do not work you have OTHER internal Engine issues.

Tom V.

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  #37  
Old 02-05-2023, 08:36 PM
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That does look a bit complicated with a lot of plumbing.
I've had no issue running a proper pcv in 600+HP engines. As mentioned if using a valve cover for a pcv, the pcv is placed in the driver side valve cover in a typical V8 due to crank rotation.

If it's oil contamination in the combustion process you're looking to eliminate all you need is a simple small air/oil separator can plumbed in to the pcv hose. That's what we did on LS engines years ago because they were bad for sucking oil through the pcv, even when the cars were brand new.

Or maybe it's just time for a vacuum pump

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Old 02-06-2023, 08:54 AM
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Hey, my wife says I overthink everything so this was no exception.

Here’s the link to the PCV can. https://www.mightymousesolutions.com...t-page/pcv-can

I think we can agree a catch can is a good idea. In this case, that can is designed like a fixed orifice valve. It is well engineered internally.

Regarding the IAC step adjustment, it was minor. On installation, hot idle went to 1-2 steps, I adjusted back to 5-7. I probably could have left it alone.

Do I think I’ll have any excess crankcase pressure? Nope.
Is it overkill? Ubetcha.

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Old 02-06-2023, 11:10 AM
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Hey, my wife says I overthink everything so this was no exception.

Here’s the link to the PCV can. https://www.mightymousesolutions.com...t-page/pcv-can

I think we can agree a catch can is a good idea. In this case, that can is designed like a fixed orifice valve. It is well engineered internally.

Regarding the IAC step adjustment, it was minor. On installation, hot idle went to 1-2 steps, I adjusted back to 5-7. I probably could have left it alone.

Do I think I’ll have any excess crankcase pressure? Nope.
Is it overkill? Ubetcha.
I agree a catch can or an air/oil separator is a good idea. Especially if the OEM system has a bad habit of pulling in oil. No one really wants oil mixed in with the combustion process, not a good idea.

I just generally lean towards a small air/oil separator because they are small and easier to conceal, and allows me to keep the PCV setup in place for a factory appearance. But I do see a lot of hot N/A street cars that are more setup for race than street with roll cages, gutted interior and big stroker engines that do have pretty elaborate crank case vent setups. In that case I wouldn't be too concerned about hiding anything, lol.

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  #40  
Old 02-06-2023, 11:27 AM
wakesupremo wakesupremo is offline
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I don't fully understand the air filter on top of the catch can scenario. Surely, if there's air able to get in there it illiminates the vacuum

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