#21  
Old 02-09-2022, 10:31 AM
Schurkey Schurkey is offline
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Originally Posted by TRADERMIKE 2012 View Post
I own the 1967 TH400 with the Rectangular Filter and it is Metal with a 4" tube, I read that they are cleanable.
Buy a newer pan, a valve body filter bolt, drill and tap one hole. Convert to the newer filter and fluid tube.

GM did.

I use double O-rings on the pump end of the fluid tube.

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Originally Posted by TRADERMIKE 2012 View Post
that Gray Silt, I read is called "Stiction"
That's not my definition of "stiction". That's what I call "debris". A small amount is not alarming. A small amount is totally normal.

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Originally Posted by TRADERMIKE 2012 View Post
and is in solution to help the used Clutches as they ware over time to have a little more material to grab to the Metal disc.
HELL, NO. I've heard that story before. I don't know who invented it, but they should be beaten briskly about the head and shoulders.

Any grit in the fluid will destroy the soft-metal bushings, the roller thrust bearings, and the soft plastic thrust washers. Grit would score shafts and harm the geartrain. it would wear the pump, and the valves in the valve body, especially those transmissions that have an aluminum valve body. It does NOTHING beneficial. If you're lucky, it settles-out in the pan overnight never to be picked-up again.

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Originally Posted by TRADERMIKE 2012 View Post
I read the literature on the side of the Fix-it bottles and one said it removes the Stiction from the surface of the Trans. Case.
Maybe. I suspect they'll claim anything if it helps sell the product.

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Originally Posted by TRADERMIKE 2012 View Post
Would you know if my particular Trans. Filter has a screen inside or should I just open one of the old ones to see?
Doesn't matter. Convert to the newer filter.

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  #22  
Old 02-09-2022, 11:02 AM
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..68-to-newer filter and pan is a wise and easy upgrade. I missed that because i never use the 65-67 filter deal.

  #23  
Old 02-09-2022, 11:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Half-Inch Stud View Post
..68-to-newer filter and pan is a wise and easy upgrade. I missed that because i never use the 65-67 filter deal.
'64--'67 on the TH400.

The TH425 used the "old" style filter through the end of production. Not surprising, since it used the '64-style valve body, too. A shift kit that fits a '64 TH400 should also work in a '66--'78 ElDorado or Toronado.

  #24  
Old 02-21-2022, 10:14 AM
TRADERMIKE 2012 TRADERMIKE 2012 is offline
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Originally Posted by Schurkey View Post
'64--'67 on the TH400.

The TH425 used the "old" style filter through the end of production. Not surprising, since it used the '64-style valve body, too. A shift kit that fits a '64 TH400 should also work in a '66--'78 ElDorado or Toranodo.
I have installed a remote Trans. oil cooler for after I rebuild the current TH 400 Trans. We have been reading all my downloads and watching Trans. build videos, so when we decide to rebuild it, we know what we're doing, that is my roommate and myself.

  #25  
Old 10-07-2022, 03:06 AM
TRADERMIKE 2012 TRADERMIKE 2012 is offline
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Mikes Reply:
I started this thread 8 months ago and I would like some input from those people who know all about the Pontiac th 400 Trans. only.
First, I needed to read all about the th 400 and watch many videos to build my confidence to rebuild this Trans. with my roommate. I bought a rebuild kit from B+M products plus some additional parts on the net that are needed for a fresh rebuild. I also bought the tools needed for the job that I did not have. First to refresh this story, I ran over a root under an asphalt driveway that a tree root lifted the driveway enough to damage my Torque converter as I slowly moved forward the Trans. bottomed out raising the drive train up. It turned out that the T.C. had a half a dime size chunk missing out of the front Bearing in the Hub that enters the front of the pump area. This is a leak and so I had to replace the T.C. Then, I installed this new T.C. and tested to see if I could fix the other problems that had occurred internally. I went 300 miles more and tried cleaning the valve body, Govenor and Modulator, plus the inner screen and Accumulators to some positive results. Eventually, I lost the forward movement completly. I then decided to buy a rebuild kit and here are the results so far on the tear down:

Upon pulling the Pump we found that the seals between the Front Drum and the Direct Drum on the Stator Shaft were damaged. One completely in half and lodged in the Direct Drum forward area and the second one was in place but not clamped together. These are the Metal Factory type "o" rings. Thus, there was loss of Hydraulic pressure, I can say only that I have Reverse but no Forward gear at this time. Secondly, we found that the Intermediate Clutches are worn and all need replacement. Since we disassembled the Trans. in complete assemblies, we have yet to break it down into single components. No other damage to the outer Drums is noted and the Forward Band needs to be replaced. The rear Band looks good. Since I have the B+M rebuild kit, I want to know if I should replace all the Bushings or only the ones that I think need replacing like the Pump bushing as a matter of that I was told to in my reading. Should I keep the rear Band since it is in good shape and the factory one is better than the one that comes in the kit or so I have read? Also, I bought a new Oil pump Gear for $12.00, should I use the new gear or not? At the rear of the Trans, I bought a Bushing that goes with a Torrington Bearing. I also bought Torrington bearings for three other places. This is a 376 - 430 HP motor, A 428 ci HO Pontiac Engine, Stock, with a "041" Cam and New Hydraulic Lifters, timing gears and chain advanced to 108 degrees for super tune. Plus, New Chrome moly, HD Push Rods. Headers and Tri-Power intake with cold Air induction. I will check my Tolerances while rebuilding each section at a time and while assembling. Do I need to be careful with the Front and Rear end play and just build the center as it is or should I be very careful with the middle two areas Tolerances. Some say that there are four and the factory calls for only the 2, front and rear?


Last edited by TRADERMIKE 2012; 10-07-2022 at 03:26 AM.
  #26  
Old 10-07-2022, 09:12 AM
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Sounds like the clutch pack didn't get the lipseals refreshed, or/and was driving around Low-on-Fluid and schortched the FWD Pack. Clogged Fabric filter.
This is a 10-foot pole drama of errors to me, so don't want to get involved: too far away for eyes-on guidance. Aside from that:

Replace the Front Pump, Converter because something got whacked badly. Take high impact to crack-out a Converter Neck fracture. Front Pump bushing-bore took the force.
Visual inspection of bushing wear, parts wear is the big deal for the TH400, all rebuilds.

FWD drum: look for scoring inside the 2-seal ring contact area and shaft wear there.
DIR Pack: needful to perform the Mid-Seal removal, Center-support 2nd ring removal, and Reverse-Bleed tiny-hole plugging in Separator plate. <-- a modification for nice 2-3, 3-2.

Valvebody: Flip the 2-3 Puck, toss the big valvespring, puck immoble in VB (some pucks may have 3-tabs to gring down)

use only 3 checkballs: they are nearly in a straignt line in the Case.

In conclusion; Good luck, and donta want to get involved beyond the above-typed internet advice. HIS


Last edited by Half-Inch Stud; 10-07-2022 at 09:50 AM.
  #27  
Old 10-07-2022, 03:19 PM
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The TH400 is "THE" easiest-to-rebuild-as-a-DIY-project 3-speed transmission. All the gears in the back, all the clutches in the front, no pistons in the case. A danged fine unit; similar to but more sophisticated than the Mopar 727 because in "Drive" the 400 never has to release a friction (band or clutch) to engage the next gear--it just adds another clutch on the upshift. Therefore, shift timing is easier.

1. I really liked the B&M rebuild instructions when I did my first 400 about a thousand years ago. Still have a photocopy of them in The Library downstairs. They make a big deal out of drilling various holes in the hard-parts "oversize"; when I've checked the 400s I've gone through, all those holes were already at the sizes specified. APPARENTLY, drilling those holes applies only to very early 400s. Mind you, I've got little use for B&M shift kits, but the rebuild instructions are excellent in terms of pictures and simplicity. They don't cover bushing replacement and other, more-in-depth items. And when it comes to shift kits, I'll take TransGo, thank you very much.

2. Bushings are a great idea...if you can install them properly. If you can't push 'em in correctly, you're better-off with the originals if they're in usable condition. Of course, any bushing that's obviously worn-out or damaged has to "go".

3. Not a big fan of the plastic thrust washers. Yeah, lots transmissions have them and they work just fine. Given a choice, I'd replace 'em.

4. Far as I know, rear end-play and front end play are the only end-play measurements to be concerned about. If there's more than that, I don't know about 'em. (That does not include "clutch clearances" of course.)

5. I've heard really good things about the 4L80E pistons with molded-on seals. Never use 'em personally. About the same with the solid Teflon sealing rings. I used the metal rings with the hook ends; I've used Teflon scarf-cut seals, (Put the scarf-cut seals on properly!) but "I'm told" the solid Teflon rings are the way to go...if you have the expander tools and the re-sizer tools; and virtually nobody in a D-I-Y capacity will have that.

6. There's "special tools" to select the proper pin-length for the band apply pins. Again, "good luck". Everyone I know just re-uses whatever pin came out of the transmission.

7. Get the center support properly loaded, and the bolt torqued to spec. I keep a socket JUST for that use, so that I don't wear out the socket points on other fasteners, and then wreck the wrenching surface of the center-support bolt. Most folks wouldn't bother with that. What I'm saying is "don't use a worn-out socket" on that bolt. This is a lesson I learned from 12-point Honda cylinder head bolts; if the socket isn't PERFECT, "good luck" getting the head bolts out without tearing up the wrenching surface, or rounding them off. Look for case wear from the center support moving around.

8. I put two lubricated O-rings on the filter tube where it shoves into the pump; and two lubricated O-rings on the modulator where it goes into the case.

9. Verify Governor operation, and tune the governor as needed to get the shift points where you want them. Don't dick with the modulator to tune the shift points, at least not excessively. If the original, huge, black OEM modulator isn't defective, I use that in preference to the small, compact, inexpensive aftermarket modulators. The OEM modulators are altitude-compensated (barometric pressure compensated).

10. MAKE SURE THE TRANS COOLER TUBES ARE NOT RESTRICTED, AND THE TRANS COOLER(S) ARE CLEAN AND NOT RESTRICTED. Given a choice, I'll use 3/8 cooler tubes instead of the more-common 5/16 tubes. Flush the cooler(s) to get debris out. If they're too bad, they'll have to be replaced. Restrictions in the cooler circuit can destroy the crankshaft thrust bearing/crank thrust surface. Some guys restrict the fluid passage into the converter to prevent over-pressurizing the converter leading to thrust problems; I don't know that that would be needed in your situation. Have a local trans shop flush a used torque converter, too. But I suppose you'll have a new or rebuilt converter for your assembly.

11. The TH400 world seems to revolve around the 34-element sprag clutch on the Direct drum. That's what I've used when I can get a suitable drum to use it with. HOWEVER, I have heard that the roller-clutch is just as good, and way cheaper. This is not something I've experimented with. If other folks tell you that the roller clutch is a troublemaker, I suppose you should believe them. IF you use a sprag clutch, or IF you're buying a core direct drum from some unknown transmission, MAKE SURE THE SPRAG/ROLLER CLUTCH SPINS THE PROPER DIRECTION. The rear-wheel-drive versions of the 400 (375, 400, 475) spin the clutch one direction, the front-wheel-drive TH425 has an identical drum generally with the extra clutch plate inside; but the clutch spins the opposite direction. DO NOT SCREW THIS UP.

12. Consider the ATSG manual, the Cliff Ruggles TH400 rebuild/modification book, and--if you can find it at a reasonable price--the out-of-print Ron Sessions TH400 rebuild/modification book.


Last edited by Schurkey; 10-07-2022 at 03:58 PM.
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  #28  
Old 10-08-2022, 11:33 AM
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Given a choice, I'll use 3/8 cooler tubes instead of the more-common 5/16 tubes.
I was thinking about this last night while installing the transmission cooler lines in my '66.

Before I restored my car, a previous owner had installed 3/8" trans lines but had to use fitting adapters where they connect to the trans and the radiator since they were both intended to be used with 5/16" lines.

I installed 5/16" lines last night, which I am fine with, but it also dawned on me that since the threaded fittings in the transmission and radiator have openings big enough only for 5/16" tubing, wouldn't using adapters to connect 3/8" tubing to 5/16" fittings ultimately prove to be pointless? The inlets & outlets would still be restricted to 5/16" levels of flow, right?

I suppose I could have swapped the threaded fittings in the trans for larger 3/8" units, but the fittings on the radiator are of course welded on.

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  #29  
Old 10-08-2022, 12:16 PM
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Had a local trans shop rebuild my Turbo 400 with the B&M trans rebuild kit. My trans came out of a Buick. I told them to use the mildest shift kit of the three levels included. I'm very happy with it, it shifts at 4800 which is just right for my 455. It will chirp as it goes into 2nd under the right conditions. When you let off the gas in 2nd it does 'clunk' a little as it upshifts into 3rd but otherwise its like stock but better.

  #30  
Old 10-08-2022, 04:46 PM
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Originally Posted by ZeGermanHam View Post
since the threaded fittings in the transmission and radiator have openings big enough only for 5/16" tubing, wouldn't using adapters to connect 3/8" tubing to 5/16" fittings ultimately prove to be pointless? The inlets & outlets would still be restricted to 5/16" levels of flow, right?
The tubing itself would have reduced restriction. Overall fluid flow should increase based on greater pressure-drop across the cooler.

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Originally Posted by ZeGermanHam View Post
I suppose I could have swapped the threaded fittings in the trans for larger 3/8" units, but the fittings on the radiator are of course welded on.
Have a local radiator shop pop the tank off, and install a cooler with the 3/8 fittings. Or buy a radiator with the 3/8 fittings.

  #31  
Old 10-08-2022, 09:29 PM
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68-PC & 69-PC TH400s had 3/8 Coolng lines for 428 HO with Towing Pkg option. Front Pump & Case will flow it.

  #32  
Old 11-12-2022, 05:10 AM
TRADERMIKE 2012 TRADERMIKE 2012 is offline
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Mike here, I am disassembling the TH 400 and am now assembling it. The rear portion got a roller bearing and did not need to be shimmed. I Installed New roller bearings forward and aft of the ring gear and output shaft. At the Main shaft I used a 3-prong .010" shim behind the roller bearing and Sun gear to reduce the rear end play instead of shimming the rear case bearing. The Reaction Carrier is shimmed .020" behind the 4 - prong metal thrust washer. This helps the rear band from moving as much, a racer thing, keeps the rear band from excess floating. The Reaction Carrier Drum was in good shape, I simply polished it on my grinding wheel using various type buffing wheels and the compound each uses. The rear Band is also good, but since the B+M rebuild kit came with a new one, it gets the new one. The Front Band was in bad shape and I sanded out the shallow grooves and then buffed them out completly. All the Bushings are being replaced as I go, I bought a new Bushing driver kit online just for this job.
All the Thrust washers are being replaced as I go as well. were at the Center support, got new metal clasp sealing rings and new Piston seals too. I have all Aluminum pistons in this 1967 Trans. is getting all new Frictions and Steels. The Intermediate clutches were worn and missing Friction material. Moving past the center to the Direct Drum, this is where the damage begins, both the Direct and Forward Hub got hot. There were 4 Frictions and Steels glued to the Direct Hub, they had to be lubed up and hammered off to get to the Hub. The Forward Hub got hot as well and the Frictions and Steels came off, but were nasty also. Because I don't know what heat range these parts can take, I opted to replace them both. I found a Direct Hub included in a Forward Drum complete deal for the low price of $60 delivered, so I purchased the assembly for the Direct Hub only, I will sell the rest.

Shopping online, I found a New Billet Forward Hub, with 2 Bearings, one on each side, I wanted to rollerize the front half of this build as well. At a cost of $160 I can reduce the front endplay by using a thinner shim behind the pump where it takes a phenolic plastic type Thrust bearing. Since my B+M rebuild kit was purchased during the Coved Pandemic I had to take what I could, otherwise I would have opted for more in the kit than this one came with, for example: I had to buy the 4 Torrington Bearings, the complete Thrust washer kit, Filter and there are no Koleen Steels either. I saw kits online that include these parts for around $300 and I paid that for mine. I had to spend another $100, to equal the kits, for sale now. Over and above, I bought a Pump Gear set, a Rear Sonnax Accumulator kit, that is adjustable and a Pump Regulator/Boost valve kit, also from sonnax.

I was wondering if the used Direct and Forward Hub that I pulled from this Trans. is reusable to someone else? So, I am installing the new Frictions and Steels as soon as they come in. I also found that the Pump is also damaged inside the pocket where the gears live. I opted to buy a $295 remanufactured unit, on its way as we speak. So, to keep on moving forward I am at the Valve Body, we disassembled the valves and I used my Gun Cleaning kits tools to ream out the inside of the valve body's valves and sleeves. The gun kit uses soft Brass Brushes and won't hurt the Steel Bores. I had some trouble with one valve, because the ATSG Manual, had the schematic wrong on one valve and my roommate and I had to figure out how to install the valving, so with trial and error we had to remove the sleeve and hone it out and the valve bore as well, the valve was tapered and could go in only one way and I will check with my other books to see if I am correct, otherwise I am going to check with the shop Manual next. We are far from being finished and I am waiting for a deep oil pan that is on its way anyway, so I won't close it up yet.

So, soon I will be setting the forward end play and just to let you know I have .008 endplay in the rear. The Pump was the problem, we found that the 2 metal clasp rings at the Stator behind the pump, between the Forward drum, one was split in half and the other was unclasped. The lost oil pressure ruined the pump and the Forward and Direct Hubs along with the Frictions and Steels. Then add me driving it, trying to figure out what the problem was, just amplified the problem. For those of you who have not read the entire post or any of my other posts, the original problem began when I drove over my friend's new driveway that he had just moved to and I was at my first visit there and unaware of the tree roots growing under an Asphalt driveway with no cement under it. I was moving at a slow pace and the Trans. bottomed out, on the way home it was acting up strangely. I made it home some 50 miles, and continued to test and tune until the Trans would move no more, I was left with reverse. I drove another 300 miles, 50 miles out and 50 miles back three times. My advice, if you damage your trans. , plan on taking it apart. Had I parked this car, I could have saved myself all the hard parts inside, at least. In addition, I spent the last two years reading and studying, plus watching videos, in order to rebuild this trans. I had to buy parts and tools and build my confidence. Even now I am going over and over the work to make sure it is right. The Torque Converter broke a front Bushing in this accident and that was replaced with a 13", Hughes (HD) RV type unit, with 1800-2000 stall.

Mike out for now, Any Knowledgeable Trans. Mechanical advice is gladly appreciated.
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Last edited by TRADERMIKE 2012; 11-12-2022 at 05:45 AM.
  #33  
Old 11-12-2022, 04:58 PM
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Good luck. Luck is a byproduct of planning and design.

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  #34  
Old 11-21-2022, 06:36 PM
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Mike here, I ordered a forward and Direct Hub from ebay along with extra parts from a vendor, but he never shipped. Then I ordered a new Forward Billet Hub with 2 Berrings to rollerize the forward section of my Trans. only to find that they sent one with too small of a diameter. This vendor did not do their homework. My research shows 2 Main shafts in 1964 -1966 and one in 1967 and up. They are only 0.0075 difference and that is all it takes. I will recheck Sonnax , there's has only one Berring but it has extra thickness to allow less shimming, question is, are they only selling the version that is the wrong diameter for me. It turns out mine is a very rare Main shaft and that is why it is not produced in the aftermarket. Needless to say, I have to wait on ebay to credit my account and then I need to send the wrong Forward Hub back and they want me to do so at my expense. I was clear on the year I ordered and they should pay for the return. I am waiting for that issue to be resolved. Mike out for now.

  #35  
Old 11-21-2022, 06:41 PM
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Wouldn't it be ENORMOUSLY easier to go to any local trans shop, and get the "other" main shaft from a core transmission? Is there more to the swap than just crammin' in another mainshaft? I've never dealt with that. Didn't know there was a difference until now.

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Old 11-21-2022, 07:29 PM
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Wouldn't it be ENORMOUSLY easier to go to any local trans shop, and get the "other" main shaft from a core transmission? Is there more to the swap than just crammin' in another main shaft? I've never dealt with that. Didn't know there was a difference until now.
Every part on the Main shaft would have to be replaced in that case, the Ring gear is where the Main Shaft ends and attaches to the (through) the Direct Drum and into the Forward Hub, it is better for me to use the Factory Thrust washers that came in the rebuild kit, instead. I am hoping that the sonnax one fits, but I won't hold my breath, because most aftermarket manufactures build in volume to supply the most commonly used parts and you can't blame them for that, after all they have to sell these parts and since I have the rare Main shaft, I lose.
It also turns out that the 1967, as I have read, uses the 34 roller clutch behind the Direct Hub and a sprag at the Reaction carrier, and they were correct, in my case. The 1967 factory-built TH 400 was built tough in those days. Also, I would like to say that my Main shaft is 0.0075 larger in diameter, adding to the overall Trans. durability.


Last edited by TRADERMIKE 2012; 11-21-2022 at 07:39 PM.
  #37  
Old 12-05-2022, 07:35 PM
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Mike here, this is a correction to the last post: It also turns out that the 1967, as I have read, uses the 34 element Sprag clutch behind the Direct Hub and a roller Clutch in front of the Reaction carrier, and they were correct, in my case. The 1967 factory-built TH 400 was built tough in those days. Also, I would like to say that my Main shaft is 0.0075 larger in diameter, adding to the overall Trans. durability. Also, the 1967 uses three roller Bearings like the Torrington ones in the back half of the Trans for less friction.

Please buyer beware, that I purchased the Forward Hub, that is Billet steel and came with two Bearings from Trans parts ware house, inc. that was not labeled that it is for the TH 400 with .970" Major diameter and mine is the 1967 rare big block one that has a .980 " Major diameter. Unlike Sonnax that makes the customer aware of that difference, but there's only uses one roller bearing and they widen the Forward Hub they make to lessen the amount of forward endplay in the Trans. when rebuilding. Now, I ask to return the wrong part to the Trans parts ware house, inc. and they make me pay to send it back at my own expense, $16.00, and I was very clear about the year of my Trans. I spoke to the sales man Robert Gull who insisted I pay for the return even though the customer is right or so I live by that rule. He sends me to Nick the manager who is also insisting I pay to return the wrong part. I said let me speak to the owner and Nick said that he is on vacation until next year and is not available to help me anyway. What about Transparency in business? Be honest, I said and eat the return, it is the wise move to make here. I will be going on your face book page and since you're the distributor I will also go on TCS performance Transmission products Facebook page because they also do not worn the public about the two different shaft diameters.

It seems that they group 1964, 65,66,67 up to 1998 as using the smaller diameter shaft without letting the consumer in on the difference, HUMM!!!! At the time of my purchase, I did not Know the difference between the Sonnax and TCS Forward Hubs, so if I had purchased the one by Sonnax without measureing the Major diameter, I would be at fault. However, that is not the case, nor am I supposed to anticipate anything between two separate manufactures, am I? So, I am waiting for the $160.00 to be returned to my account as we speak. Now, I cleaned up my own Forward Hub and Direct Hub/Forward pressure plate for service back where they came from, in my Trans. It turns out that they can take the heat generated with in the Trans. after the accident that caused this rebuild and only the Clutches and Steels suffered unusable consequences. For now, I am working on the outside of the Aluminum Case to rid it of casting defects by sanding and grinding any imperfections on the exterior. I still would like to find a set of Bearings for the Forward Hub in case anyone knows from what Trans. they come in, perhaps the best thing is to call sonnax?

After I take down the High areas on the Case, I will fill in the lows with some Bondo and Nitro Stain for a professional looking Case, sanding with the appropriate grit sand papers and primer prior to final painting. At this time, I closed the case with the pump and gasket and all internal parts to find I have .040" tolerance total front endplay to deal with. Thus, if I want, I can simply use the proper Phenolic thrust washer behind the Pump to keep the forward half's endplay within (.002" - .005") greater than the rears .008" as it stands now. If I find Bearings for the front half then I will consider that in my computations.

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  #38  
Old 12-05-2022, 10:49 PM
TRADERMIKE 2012 TRADERMIKE 2012 is offline
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I just came in from the shed where the TH 400 Pontiac Trans. is on the stand being prepped, a little more cast flashing at the two halves when they poured the mold is being ground as we speak. The Aluminum actually looks buffed with sand paper up to 300 grit. there are no low spots, therefore we need only prime the Trans. case with non-sand-able primer prior to finish painting.

Now that I have had time to reason more clearly about how the accident affected the damage to the Pontiac TH 400 in the first place: The Trans. pan was dented in the middle and I don't think the Metal cover under the Torque Converter ever got hit, because it is metal and it is not dent damaged. The Trans. was lifted up and attached to the Bell housing to motor and the various mounts were raised simultaneously. The Torque Converters Stator, being hung off the Input Shaft, was abruptly moved inside by shock. The Turbine suffered inadvertently being attached as well, causing the Hub bushing leak in the Torque Converters Hub by such an upward movement. The two metal rings on the back of the Pumps Cover Stator that seal the Forward Drum oil, one broke in half and the other unclamped. Most likely my continuous driving contributed to the damage to the sealing rings between the Forward Drum and rear Pump supply oil to the (first) Forward Clutches and then Direct Clutches and finally, the Center supports Intermediate Clutches. The Trans. was leaking from the Torque Converters forward Hub a dime size chunk missing, broken bushing. So, I put a diaper in the Flywheel Pan, that captured the fluid, but kept driving, while testing and diagnosing the Trans. Issue. The second, internal leak, was not discovered until dissassembly. By then all the Clutches and Steels were toasted. It is Ironic that I was able to salvage all the Hard parts in this Trans. by coincidence, with returning some parts and other parts not arriving, we ended up polishing and sanding the Drums and Front and Direct Hubs and putting them back into service.

Cost is a new B+M rebuild kit plus many upgrades, this Trans was down shifting from third to second and back to third prior to the accident. I believe that my cleaning of the fluid, filters and valve body plus the two accumulators, solved that issue. It also turns out that the kick down Detent Solenoid needed repair and that is why I thought I might need to go back to my old type Cam, but that is not necessary anymore. I did Install a 041 Cam and new adjustable timing chain and gears that are adjustable. I can't wait to see this engine go into passing gear again. When we had the Detent Solenoid apart, we found the faulty wiring and were able to rebuild it and added a new gasket. We added the original Valve body plate with new gaskets because the plate had been drilled for a B+M street/strip kit using only 5 balls in the Valve body Maze area. I added the Sonnax Rear Accumulator adjustable kit and their Pump Booster/Regulator kit. We purchased a remanufactured Pump as well. We added upgraded springs to the Clutches and filled the holes as per direction along with the new rubber Piston seals. Complete Bushing replacements makes this a new Transmission. I added a large Truck deep pan with Studs and nuts using the best Gasket, plus we added an oil drain kit to the pan. B+M makes an adaptor to add to the (can type) 1967 filter I use, so the oil pick-up will be closer to the bottom of the pan, I have to order this part next.


Last edited by TRADERMIKE 2012; 12-05-2022 at 11:11 PM.
  #39  
Old 04-06-2023, 03:14 AM
TRADERMIKE 2012 TRADERMIKE 2012 is offline
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Today is 4/5/23 and we finally installed the Trans. (TH 400) in the 1979 Pontiac T/A, Gear Vendors is backing it up. The Drive shaft is in place, the lines are attached and the linkage is hooked up as well. The fluid is installed and when we start the Engine, we will be able to top the fluid off. We cleaned the bottom of the car and spot painted any area's that needed paint. We are modifying the Carb. lower pan by drilling the tops of the Tri-power lids to add more air volume to the engine, in hopes to add to the VE or so I have read. They produce air filters that have filters on top as well as the sides but I can't find them to fit my set-up. I will be manufacturing my own screens and backing them up with homemade filters under the lids this week. By this coming weekend, I will try to start the vehicle with the two new batt. that I purchased for $120 each. I have a mini-starter and HD wires. Plus, a Sudbury switch and dual HD batt. in the trunk.

The vehicle has been off the road for at least two years and the carbs. were drained by running the engine until it ran out of fuel, so I don't expect any varnish in the Tri-powers. I have the car off the ground and high enough to work under safety jack stands and cinder blocks are located in all the rite positions. Before we rebuilt this Trans., we had replaced all the wires in the engine compartment and installed new wire loom over them to give them the 1967 look to go with the 1967 Pontiac 428 ci engine and 1966 Tri-power Intake Manifold. We have yet to start this engine with the new adjustable timing gears. We found that the passing gear was not working and it will be a change to drop down when I pass again. We installed a deeper Trans pan off a truck too. I will order a deeper pan for the Gear Vendors soon with an adaptor extension for the oil pick up. After I put 500 miles on the Trans., I will purchase a new screen only filter, less the yellow membrane some filters use. plus, an extension for the deeper pan, that fits up in the Valve body area. We installed a remote oil filter for the Trans. fluid to go through, but won't use it until we break in the rebuilt trans. After I break in this Trans. with the rubber lines, I will be replacing them with all metal lines, except where rubber is necessary. I expect to run into some unforeseen problems; however, we will overcome any and all of them. After two plus years of studying about this trans. and purchasing parts, it is going to be nice to get behind the wheel again.

Lord, please keep me safe and keep the vehicle from breaking again, Amen! We will test the trans. on stands and record the pressure in each gear and top off the fluid on a level surface. I run the fluid that exits the torque converter to the radiator cooler first, there the temp. is about 180 degrees F, then to the air-cooled trans. cooler, that lowers the temp. to about 160-170 degrees F, then to the remote filter and back into the Trans. I use the factory shroud and 19" fan blade plus I have two oil coolers and a doughnut adaptor. Inline I use one copper pipe to and from the engine about 12-16" that transfer heat to the atmosphere. There was a time when I was working on the AC unit installation and I removed the Condenser unit from the vehicle and I realized that the Condenser unit in front of the Radiator was like a wall in front of it, the temp. was about 30 degrees cooler without the Condenser in the way. But I need my AC so I eventually Installed it when I bought the new Compressor. So, those proud people I have spoken to in the past. Since you don't use a Condenser in your cars as the manufacturers installed them, there you have it. I think if the factory had made the Radiator fins tighter and the Condenser fins wider it would have let more air into the radiator, keeping the engine cooler. It was much later that the factory would not overlap the two. I will add some photos of the Tri-power Carb. lids as I put the vehicle back together. Mike out for now, progress in motion.


Last edited by TRADERMIKE 2012; 04-06-2023 at 03:27 AM.
  #40  
Old 04-06-2023, 05:08 AM
TRADERMIKE 2012 TRADERMIKE 2012 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Schurkey View Post
You have reverse, but no forward gears?

I suspect Forward clutch seal, or a leak in the oil circuit supplying the Forward clutch.
You were correct, the two ring seals that in my case clasp together, one was broken in half and the other was unclasped. These rings were after the pump and lived in the forward drum area. Because there was no oil getting to the forward drums clutches the symptoms were like always being in neutral, as not getting first, thereby "not moving" forward. The forward, direct and intermediate clutches and their metal discs were destroyed.

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