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Old 02-11-2021, 02:52 PM
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Default Traction improvement suggestions?

After setting up a limited slip axle and adding slicks what is the next smartest thing a guy can do?

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Old 02-11-2021, 03:01 PM
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First tell us what body type you are making these improvements on, like is it leaf spring, or coil?

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Old 02-11-2021, 03:20 PM
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Go to the track, get a few back to back runs and then go from there

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Old 02-11-2021, 03:31 PM
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Probably Blizzaks or maybe BFG all-terrains.

Oh wait, wrong forum ... my bad!

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Old 02-11-2021, 03:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaleO View Post
After setting up a limited slip axle and adding slicks what is the next smartest thing a guy can do?
Hope it don't rain....

Is this a street car?



Frank

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Old 02-11-2021, 04:03 PM
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Yes! In regards to the above post as far as going into a tight turn under hard throttle on a wet road, lol!

It’s a great way to go back to where you where headed from and get your knuckles instantly white!

BTDT a few times!

Ok back to your question.

Replace your hollow greasable stock type U- joints with race ones and then also add a driveshaft loop, this all assuming your driveshaft still has good wall thickness!

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Wernher Von Braun warned before his retirement from NASA back in 1972, that the next world war would be against the ETs!
And he was not talking about 1/8 or 1/4 mile ETs!

1) 1940s 100% silver 4 cup tea server set.

Two dry rotted 14 x 10 Micky Thompson slicks.

1) un-mailed in gift coupon from a 1972 box of corn flakes.
Two pairs of brown leather flip flops, never seen more then 2 mph.

Education is what your left with once you forget things!

Last edited by steve25; 02-11-2021 at 04:16 PM.
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Old 02-11-2021, 09:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steve25 View Post
Replace your hollow greasable stock type U- joints with race ones and then also add a driveshaft loop, this all assuming your driveshaft still has good wall thickness!
With slicks, this right here ^ ^ ^ is the best advice so far.

You'd be surprised just how easy a driveshaft can cut through a floor pan. If that happens you may never have to worry about trimming your toenails ever again. If you know what I mean.

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Old 02-12-2021, 10:59 AM
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i'd go for a driveshaft loop next!

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Old 02-17-2021, 12:41 PM
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Look at what gears you have? Definitely want a stall converter depending on cam and gears,minimum stall converter at 2800, drag radials, stiff poly bushings, practice your launch..start there..

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Old 02-12-2021, 09:02 AM
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X10 on the driveshaft loop so you're legal at the track and check u joints. Make a couple passes and get a baseline.. If your rear is an 8.2 start planning on a replacement. High 12s doesn't require major mods

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Old 02-11-2021, 04:49 PM
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Duh, some data might be helpfull eh?

1967 GTO, 3.23, 428, TH400 with Cliff influenced 9.5 inch convertor. Rear sway bar/boxed control arms. Rear frame reinforcement bars. These noticeably stiffened up the car BTW. Factory replacement springs with coil over shocks which I suspect might be an issue.

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Old 02-11-2021, 05:08 PM
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Quote:
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Rear sway bar/boxed control arms. Rear frame reinforcement bars. These noticeably stiffened up the car BTW.
That's a good start.

1. Replace the body bushings and whatever body bushing hardware is needed--probably all of it. The frame is a flexible mess until it's securely bolted to the body.

https://www.chevelles.com/threads/bo...-body.1131908/

2. Verify rear ride-height. The taller the ass-end is, the worse the traction is likely to be.

3. "Drag strip" traction is enhanced with tall, soft springs in front, and drag-race shocks. But that's a disaster on the street, which favors short, stiff springs for handling and braking. OEM springs are closer to the tall/soft drag ideal than to the short/stiff "handling" ideal.

4. My "A-body" '68 'Camino has No-Hop/Hop-Stop bars on the rear axle. Some folks don't like them, but I'm happy with 'em. Mind you, that thing hardly gets driven, and has never been to a drag strip. I plan to change that...someday.

5. A "posi"/limited-slip differential that actually works.

6. If the rear frame-stiffening bars made that much difference...I'd be looking for cracks in the frame.

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Old 02-11-2021, 09:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaleO View Post
Duh, some data might be helpfull eh?

1967 GTO, 3.23, 428, TH400 with Cliff influenced 9.5 inch convertor. Rear sway bar/boxed control arms. Rear frame reinforcement bars. These noticeably stiffened up the car BTW. Factory replacement springs with coil over shocks which I suspect might be an issue.
Heads, cam, stall?

The next step is to run it again with a good tire under it.....you may not need any other improvement at the moment.

Just Guessing, but at your current power level with slicks you should have zero traction problems?

If you do find the need, you might want to loosen up the front suspension by removing sway bar, loosening end links, drag shocks etc etc as others have mentioned.

Fun times!

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Old 02-13-2021, 07:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaleO View Post
1967 GTO, 3.23, 428, TH400 with Cliff influenced 9.5 inch convertor.
1 or 2 fifty pound sand bags behind the back seat - in trunk.

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Old 02-17-2021, 11:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Baron Von Zeppelin View Post
1 or 2 fifty pound sand bags behind the back seat - in trunk.
A few years back. I had about 150 lbs of softener salt in my trunk to aid traction on a cool night. When the car hooked after the first pass and we realized the track wasn't that bad..we quickly pulled the bags out and picked up another tenth and a mph real quick. Weight helps if you want to tune your 60ft as far as carb or timing if you are traction limited.

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Old 02-17-2021, 01:13 PM
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You can double-duty a street/strip car with good adjustable shocks, but not cheap.

Yes on the roto joints or the GW ones.

Body bushings are a touchy subject for many, but to throw it out there, solids are the way to go. People that say they increase road 'harshness' I doubt have ever really tried them, because it's just a farce.

.

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Old 02-11-2021, 04:58 PM
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In that case get a set of what’s called Hop Stop bars/ anti hop bars.

Also what’s the HP level planed for the motor, and or the ET you would like to turn in the 1/4 mile?

If your looking for making more then some 525 hp then fuel system up grades will be needed while we are talking about working on things under the car.

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Wernher Von Braun warned before his retirement from NASA back in 1972, that the next world war would be against the ETs!
And he was not talking about 1/8 or 1/4 mile ETs!

1) 1940s 100% silver 4 cup tea server set.

Two dry rotted 14 x 10 Micky Thompson slicks.

1) un-mailed in gift coupon from a 1972 box of corn flakes.
Two pairs of brown leather flip flops, never seen more then 2 mph.

Education is what your left with once you forget things!

Last edited by steve25; 02-11-2021 at 05:34 PM.
  #18  
Old 02-11-2021, 05:05 PM
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Steve25 - appreciate the strength and enhancements.

Steve 65 GTO - know where I can get a lift kit- ?!

Bill - I've had it to the strip once and did a best 13.582/103mph. Was with a stock convertor and marginal limited slip and limited experience : ) An error I think I did was to load up the trans just under 1,800 and "eased" it off the line and then laid into it best I could

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Old 02-12-2021, 10:41 AM
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It is a fun journey for sure going from 13s to 11s. The video camera on slow mo is your best friend. Make a change, go test and video.

The people on these forums then can give you great advice. I got tons from these awesome people. I ended up 11.71@118 and reliable as hell. Started with a totally stock 70. Did Drag Week 2019 zero failures.

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Old 02-11-2021, 05:15 PM
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I'll look up the hop shop's. Are they bolt on, is there any drilling needed?

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