[78w72]

Originally Posted by tooski

I am using an old set I got a bit before the new design was made. I did the lifter bore mod. I also soaked the lifters in lacquer for a few weeks before installing. Blew them out, operated the plungers, soaked some more, until the sticking ones worked well. Using 10-30, no road miles, idling for tuning/moving in/out of garage. No ticking.

no road miles? keep your finger crossed after some miles/use. my old ones were quite for about 1000 miles & a few drag strip runs, once they hit ~6000 rpms a few times & some streetmiles they started ticking pretty bad. comp warranted them even after the 1 year timeframe.

[Formulajones]

We use 20w50 Amsoil year round, which has excellent cold flow properties for it's rated viscosity. Haven't had a problem with Pontiac roller lifters. I think Tom has stated in the past he uses a thinner 10-30 oil. So if I'm not mistaken, there's a perspective for you from both ends of the oil spectrum with no issues.

[tooski]

Originally Posted by 78w72

no road miles? keep your finger crossed after some miles/use. my old ones were quite for about 1000 miles & a few drag strip runs, once they hit ~6000 rpms a few times & some streetmiles they started ticking pretty bad. comp warranted them even after the 1 year timeframe.

From reading the various posts on the subject the ticking will start as soon as the engine starts to warm up while idling. I am optimistic, but still keeping my fingers crossed.

[78w72]

Originally Posted by Formulajones

We use 20w50 Amsoil year round, which has excellent cold flow properties for it's rated viscosity. Haven't had a problem with Pontiac roller lifters. I think Tom has stated in the past he uses a thinner 10-30 oil. So if I'm not mistaken, there's a perspective for you from both ends of the oil spectrum with no issues.

just curious what tom s was using, i think i recall reading he used 10/30 & many others do as well, comp says to use 10/30 too. thats what ive been using with good results so far.

i cant afford ~$10/qt amsoil 20/50, & although it may have good cold pour properties, 50wt is too thick IMO for a street engine & just not needed. plus the warm weight (50) is what matters more when a engine is at operating temps. cold pour is good for cold temps & initial start up. thats great if it works for you though & thanks for teh perspective.

[grivera]

Originally Posted by Formulajones

We use 20w50 Amsoil year round, which has excellent cold flow properties for it's rated viscosity. Haven't had a problem with Pontiac roller lifters. I think Tom has stated in the past he uses a thinner 10-30 oil. So if I'm not mistaken, there's a perspective for you from both ends of the oil spectrum with no issues.

What part of the country are you in?

[Formulajones]

Prescott Arizona. 4 seasons up here at 5,000 ft. Summer temps are 105+ but we frequent the valley where it's 115+. Winter up here is chilly for a couple months out of the year. This morning was 8 degrees at the house but will warm to 48 today and 54 tomorrow which is our typical highs during winter. Usually a 40 degree swing from night to day temps isn't unusual here in the desert.

So we have a very broad swing in temps here which is why I pay close attention to cold flow properties of various oils.

[Formulajones]

Originally Posted by 78w72

just curious what tom s was using, i think i recall reading he used 10/30 & many others do as well, comp says to use 10/30 too. thats what ive been using with good results so far.

i cant afford ~$10/qt amsoil 20/50, & although it may have good cold pour properties, 50wt is too thick IMO for a street engine & just not needed. plus the warm weight (50) is what matters more when a engine is at operating temps. cold pour is good for cold temps & initial start up. thats great if it works for you though & thanks for teh perspective.

I can't afford it at $10 a quart either, especially with 9 cars here running it. I simply order online in bulk for the year and even with shipping it works out to just under $7 a quart.
I don't know what Comp recommends for their lifters, I never paid attention to it, but I can say without a doubt the 20w-50 works just fine with them. Matter of fact the first set of lifters in the picture (on the left) were run with 20W-50 Valvoline and they were perfectly quiet as well. New set is running with 20w-50 Amsoil, again quiet.
I've played around with 10w-30 in 2 other cars here and didn't find any significant oil pressure changes hot or cold. I do like the heavier viscosity though because like I mentioned, ambient temps here of 115+, and extended high rpm highway cruising along with that (90 miles to Phoenix) I feel provides more protection. I then switched to Amsoil because that high viscosity has such a good cold pour property (-47 degrees) that it flows in the cold temps here as well. So I'm not switching viscosities all the time as the seasons change here. Keeps things simple. I've had these engines torn down as well and show perfect bearing wear. So I just stick with it.

[Formulajones]

I don't care to get into these discussion but dad thought I should mention this so I'll throw it out there.

About 20 years ago when I did the first stock engine for my firebird I ran a hydraulic flat tappet in it. From the start that engine always had mild lifter tap noise. Didn't affect how it ran, still ran 13's at the track and got respectable MPG with it. I didn't care about the noise, I drove it for years like that with no ill affects. At that time I ran 20w-50 Valvoline. Years later I switched that engine over to Amsoil, still the same 20w-50 viscosity. Lifters went dead silent and remained quiet. This was not an experiment, just something I noticed as I was switching all the cars over to Amsoil at that time.

I can only theorize that it is the better flow properties of the Amsoil in the additive package (cold flow and others), because the viscosity ratings were the same. Not promoting it, just thought it was interesting.

[grivera]

What oil pumps in your engines? 60# vs 80#

[Formulajones]

80 lbs.

[Dick Boneske]

We have Lunati HR lifters in our 467 engine. They are perfectly quiet at startup until the engine is warm. Then, there is a noticeable ticking sound from some of the lifters--not all. Oil pressure is between 60 and 80- psi with Brad-Penn 20w-50.

We thought it may be the fuel pump, so we changed it. No help on the ticking.

[Dragncar]

Question before I read the whole thread. The lifter bore mod lowering the hole 1/4". How is it done ? By hand with a 1/8" die grinder and a stone ? Then a wheel cylinder hone in the lifter bore to clean it up ?
I am doing a engine right now with a solid roller. But plan on putting it in a street car in a couple years with hyd roller. I would not think the lifter bore mod could hurt anything with the solid roller lifter.
I have a nice used set of the original Comp hyd rollers I bought in the for sale section and a used cam a bit bigger than a RAIV . Plan on running it with ported HOs and ex manifolds on s 462.

[tempest1964]

I believe ‘gtofreak’ posted an in-depth thread on this modification with photos. If you do an ‘advanced’ search with threads started by and put grofreak you should be able to find it. Others may chime in.
Good luck

[gtofreek]

Originally Posted by Dick Boneske

We have Lunati HR lifters in our 467 engine. They are perfectly quiet at startup until the engine is warm. Then, there is a noticeable ticking sound from some of the lifters--not all. Oil pressure is between 60 and 80- psi with Brad-Penn 20w-50.

We thought it may be the fuel pump, so we changed it. No help on the ticking.

This is EXACTLY what I found when the oil band is wrong. While the engine cranks slowly, the lifter bore clearance is enough to fill the lifter at those low cranking speeds, but as it runs, the oil bleeds out, and because they are staying on the base circle for less time, they can't refill, and they get noisy. Shut it off, and restart and it's quiet until the oil bleeds out, then noisy again.

[gtofreek]

Originally Posted by tempest1964

I believe ‘gtofreak’ posted an in-depth thread on this modification with photos. If you do an ‘advanced’ search with threads started by and put grofreak you should be able to find it. Others may chime in.
Good luck

It is early in this thread.

[gtofreek]

1/4" ball burr and start 1/4" below oil hole and grind up to hole. Make it about .050"-.060" deep. Won't hurt anything when using other lifters.

[Steve C.]

Dragncar

I run a solid roller cam and did the lifter bore modification in order to elongate the oil hole in the block to extend it down another 1/4" so it is open to the lifters oil band. As described by 'gtofreek’. The cam has 0.4300" lobe lift and while it is on the base circle the oil band is not exposed to the lifter bore feed hole. Further I also run the IA2 block and was told that the lifter bore feed hole is located higher up than in a factory block. Therefore while on the base circle little oil or no oil is being delivered to the small 0.024" diameter hole that is located within the oil band that feeds the bearings in the Crower solid roller lifters with the HIPPO option ( Hi-Pressure Pin Oiler). That means it is not getting 100 percent oiling to that hole. The lifter has to move a considerable distance upward before it gets oil into the oil band. With the modification the bearings now get oiling 100 percent of the time.


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[ponjohn]

Don Johnston (DCI) just posted a video on FB that will show the oiling characteristics of various solid and hyd roller lifters.
It is a multi-part video.

[Dragncar]

Thanks Paul and Steve. My only concern with the engine is I am going to race it for a season or two while I am building my 540 IAII. 73 block,billet splayed caps, bottom filled, std bore so i can take it .035 over. I was not going to go through the expense of the caps unless I could find a std bore.
Anyway its a cast Eagle crank. The crank is all good for a cast. Whittmores last engine. He ground it .010-.010 and polished the trust. As is it was way off. .001 tapper on the rods and bent .004, new. But its all balanced with billet steel rods and Ross 4.155 FTs.
I would like to put a steel crank in but thats 1200$ by the time you are done with re balancing and maybe grinding.
Any of you guys see a problem in pushing 650 HP through it. 350 High Ports and Crower SR. >667 .270-.275 108.
I dont plan on running it past 6500 RPM.

[Tim Corcoran]

I couldn't find part 2 of the video showing the lifter test? Anyone find it?