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Old 01-03-2005, 07:42 AM
oville oville is offline
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Any suggestions on replacing the blower motor on a 71 firebird?
Can I pull the pass inner fender & get it through there or do I have to pull the whole pass fender off?

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Old 01-03-2005, 07:42 AM
oville oville is offline
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Any suggestions on replacing the blower motor on a 71 firebird?
Can I pull the pass inner fender & get it through there or do I have to pull the whole pass fender off?

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Old 01-05-2005, 09:36 PM
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Squidward Squidward is offline
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My input: I was putting in a replacement evap box on my 73 last summer, which necessitated pulling the fender. I forgot to reconnect the blower motor leads before putting the fender back on, and almost had to pull it to get the wires back on. And that was with the inner fender well dropped as far out of the way as I could.

Pull the entire fender. It will be an easy replacement at that point. Of course, if you are into pain and frustration you could try it with the fender on... I just don't see how it could be done otherwise.

Just make sure you mark your fender and hood alignment. Also, put some duct tape along the edges so you don't ding the crap out of the paint.

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Old 01-06-2005, 06:16 AM
Hawk397 Hawk397 is offline
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I agree, if you want the easy way, pull the fender (just remember where your shims come from!) However, it can physically be done with just the inner fender well out - Patience is required, and a steady hand.

Mark

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Old 01-08-2005, 06:26 PM
gobrdgo gobrdgo is offline
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The blower motor was replaced in my 70 by the previous owner by cutting and folding the inner fenderwell. That's a good example of how not to do it.

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Old 01-09-2005, 02:40 PM
Trev Trev is offline
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You only need to remove the inner fender. It's not too difficult.

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Old 02-26-2005, 11:20 PM
garfield garfield is offline
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Posts above reminded me that I had to replace my blower motor back in the 70's when my 72 TA was still fairly new. Factory service manual tells you to identify a stamped circle on the inner fender and cut a hole using the factory-furnished stamping as an outline. That's what I did and then patched the hole as described in the manual. It may be crude, but it was the "correct" method of replacement. (You have to really look to see the patch.)

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