[JLMounce]

Originally Posted by rohrt

If we assume that is true we would have to also assume the intake was milled also in order to fit properly, correct?

Yes, which would require a new intake manifold.

Having had a P4B myself, I'd kind of be in the market for something different on this motor even if excessive milling wasn't the case.

[mjm421]

Originally Posted by b-man

Check the stroke with a measuring tape or ruler now that the heads are off.

Would be easy to the difference between 4.00” stroker crank and a stock 3.75” one.

That would depend if you’re a rough or finish carpenter. 🤣

[Chris65LeMans]

Ok. I stopped by the shop today. The guy I talked to was the office guy. He’s sharp, but didn’t have eyes and hands on the car, so the message got garbled.

This is what I learned:

1. The 1971 96s didn’t appear to have any work done to them. They will measure the combustion chambers. I’m assuming they are stock.
2. The 96s most likely cracked due to heat, per the machine shop. Possibly happened before I bought the car since it came with a tiny aluminum radiator, a 4 blade fan, and no shroud. (It ran super hot when I bought it.)
3. Given #2 above, we are going to take a close look at the bottom end to make sure it’s not toast. We’re also going to measure to check ci.

This is what we’re doing:
1. Me and him are on the same page. If we confirm the block is good, then we’ll choose E heads with a chamber size to give us the compression we’re looking for.
2. The three tube headers made sense when I bought the car as an “old school iron-headed hot rod” with offy valve covers. Since then, I’ve added power steering, a serpentine pulley kit, hydro boost, an updated alternator (delete voltage regulator, and a big aluminum radiator with dual electric fans.
3. Since I’m going with E heads, the 3 tube headers make even less sense. I’m going to upgrade to 4 tubes.
4. Since I’m getting new headers, I’ll also be switching over to round ports on the e heads.
5. If the bottom end is toast, I’m leaning towards buying a turn-key crate engine from one of the well known Pontiac suppliers.

Extra notes:
I reached out to Dave at SD performance about some KRE heads, and he’s looking at July delivery.

Questions:

A. Anyone have any suggestions for a nice set of 4 tube headers that’ll fit on a ‘65?
B. Any suggestions for a place to get them ceramic coated at?

[4zpeed]

Originally Posted by Chris65LeMans

Ok. I stopped by the shop today. The guy I talked to was the office guy. He’s sharp, but didn’t have eyes and hands on the car, so the message got garbled.

This is what I learned:

1. The 1971 96s didn’t appear to have any work done to them. They will measure the combustion chambers. I’m assuming they are stock.
2. The 96s most likely cracked due to heat, per the machine shop. Possibly happened before I bought the car since it came with a tiny aluminum radiator, a 4 blade fan, and no shroud. (It ran super hot when I bought it.)
3. Given #2 above, we are going to take a close look at the bottom end to make sure it’s not toast. We’re also going to measure to check ci.

This is what we’re doing:
1. Me and him are on the same page. If we confirm the block is good, then we’ll choose E heads with a chamber size to give us the compression we’re looking for.
2. The three tube headers made sense when I bought the car as an “old school iron-headed hot rod” with offy valve covers. Since then, I’ve added power steering, a serpentine pulley kit, hydro boost, an updated alternator (delete voltage regulator, and a big aluminum radiator with dual electric fans.
3. Since I’m going with E heads, the 3 tube headers make even less sense. I’m going to upgrade to 4 tubes.
4. Since I’m getting new headers, I’ll also be switching over to round ports on the e heads.
5. If the bottom end is toast, I’m leaning towards buying a turn-key crate engine from one of the well known Pontiac suppliers.

Extra notes:
I reached out to Dave at SD performance about some KRE heads, and he’s looking at July delivery.

Questions:

A. Anyone have any suggestions for a nice set of 4 tube headers that’ll fit on a ‘65?
B. Any suggestions for a place to get them ceramic coated at?

To be honest Chris, I think you should just copy this post, paste it in a new thread and start over to keep the confusion to a minimum. Just trying to help.



Frank

[steve25]

Frank, so where is there in your opinion wrong info posted here?
Please take the time to post back and detail your comment you have made here.

Thanks in advance!

Overall street power decline across 80 to 90 percent of a power band from running too large of a carb is the same as running a head and or intake manifold with too much port area,
All things being equal a 185 CC head on a 400 cid motor is enough to support 600 hp @ 7000 rpm, a 440!cid motor with a 185 CC head would be good for 6300 rpm basically.

Now ask yourself how much time does a street 440 spend up at 6300 rpm to call for a need for yet a 215 CC intake runner?

[4zpeed]

Originally Posted by Chris65LeMans

Ok. I stopped by the shop today. The guy I talked to was the office guy. He’s sharp, but didn’t have eyes and hands on the car, so the message got garbled.

This is what I learned:

1. The 1971 96s didn’t appear to have any work done to them. They will measure the combustion chambers. I’m assuming they are stock.
2. The 96s most likely cracked due to heat, per the machine shop. Possibly happened before I bought the car since it came with a tiny aluminum radiator, a 4 blade fan, and no shroud. (It ran super hot when I bought it.)
3. Given #2 above, we are going to take a close look at the bottom end to make sure it’s not toast. We’re also going to measure to check ci.

This is what we’re doing:
1. Me and him are on the same page. If we confirm the block is good, then we’ll choose E heads with a chamber size to give us the compression we’re looking for.
2. The three tube headers made sense when I bought the car as an “old school iron-headed hot rod” with offy valve covers. Since then, I’ve added power steering, a serpentine pulley kit, hydro boost, an updated alternator (delete voltage regulator, and a big aluminum radiator with dual electric fans.
3. Since I’m going with E heads, the 3 tube headers make even less sense. I’m going to upgrade to 4 tubes.
4. Since I’m getting new headers, I’ll also be switching over to round ports on the e heads.
5. If the bottom end is toast, I’m leaning towards buying a turn-key crate engine from one of the well known Pontiac suppliers.

Extra notes:
I reached out to Dave at SD performance about some KRE heads, and he’s looking at July delivery.

Questions:

A. Anyone have any suggestions for a nice set of 4 tube headers that’ll fit on a ‘65?
B. Any suggestions for a place to get them ceramic coated at?

Originally Posted by steve25

Frank, so where is there in your opinion wrong info posted here?
Please take the time to post back and detail your comment you have made here.

Thanks in advance!

Originally Posted by 4zpeed

To be honest Chris, I think you should just copy this post, paste it in a new thread and start over to keep the confusion to a minimum. Just trying to help.



Frank

If you get involved with Chris's issue here and want to help, your going to start from the beginning and as it is there's allot of misconception.
(A misconception is a conclusion that's wrong because it's based on faulty thinking or facts that are wrong.)

I'm not saying delete this thread, everyone that's genuinely involved in this one will follow and continue to help, just start a fresh thread to alleviate confusion.

The wrong info you mention is not in the replies, but throughout the thread in the form of the initial misconception. No offense, hope that's enough detail.

Just a suggestion, anyone can start new with a fresh set of eyes to solve his problem and help through the process. Again, just trying to help.



Frank

[steve25]

You just totally beat around the bush with your reply to my question by generalizing!

Once again, in your frame of thinking with those who have replyied to this string, who has made for confusion, or presented wrong facts .

Not to pick on Chris the op, but if anyone on this string has not had important details nailed down to make critical decisions by it was he!

[4zpeed]

Originally Posted by steve25

You just totally beat around the bush with your reply to my question.
Once again, in your frame of thinking with those who had replyied to this string, who has made for confusion, or presented wrong facts as you have stated.
Opinion is a whole other matter!

Not to pick on Chris the op, but if anyone on this string has not had important details nailed down to make critical decisions by it was he!

Ok lil buddy, I dunno who chit in your Fruity Pebbles but it wasn't me lol, I'm not placing blame on anyone here. I thought I made that clear, are you taking this personally?

I certainly hope not I thought we were friends. Further more I'm not blaming anyone else, including Chris, his initial post was based on misconception, no fault to Chris.

That is why I suggested starting fresh, this shouldn't turn into a discussion on fault, and I am certainly not trying to side step your question. We cool?



Frank

[66sprint6]

I’ve been following this thread, because it won’t be long before we start looking at heads. I’m just wondering about going all the way down to 72cc. Is this necessary to achieve a decent compression ratio? I’ve seen in other posts that if you go that small and if you have the higher compression, then aluminum heads are the way to go. I hope you don’t mind my enquiry in the middle of this thread. We’re buying heads in 2-3 months.

[steve25]

We cool!, sorry just very curious I guess and I don’t mean to push you, just want you to speak your mind without feeling concern about steeping on toe’s.

[Jim Moshier]

Chris,

I used Young Guns in Rancho Cucamonga for my ceramic coating.

https://www.younggun1.com

Jim

[4zpeed]

Originally Posted by steve25

We cool!, sorry just very curious I guess and I don’t mean to push you, just want you to speak your mind without feeling concern about steeping on toe’s.

Awesome, I try to inject where I can to help and as my knowledge base is limited, I typically stay away from controversial issues.

That being said I could see in this thread no relevance of info to the OP since most of the posts were based off the initial information, that was wrong.

I still think to alleviate confusion he should start fresh as most may read the initial post and respond with useless info to that post.

There are many who don't take the time to read a thread from the beginning, missing pertinent info. Again, I'm just trying to help.

You provide some great info and statistics around here Steve, it's much appreciated and very welcome, thanks for that.



Frank

[steve25]

In response to the question asked in post 49, we need to know what cid motor you are shopping for heads for?
Also if the short block is built already we need to know the details of that along with the weight, trans and rear gearing of the car.

[67Fbird]

If the OP already has roller rockers and is probably NOT changing cam......that is 1 expense that does NOT need to be changed just because you buy new heads. Would need to see if they are 1.65 or 1.5....could be pushrod issues on a stock E-head with 1.65. Will need to verify the cam anyway for spring issues.

[steve25]

I too am guilty and read too fast at times and miss details!

[Chris65LeMans]

Originally Posted by steve25

In response to the question asked in post 49, we need to know what cid motor you are shopping for heads for?
Also if the short block is built already we need to know the details of that along with the weight, trans and rear gearing of the car.

The weight, I imagine, is very close to stock - Google tells me this is 3,030 pounds. The rest of those questions are answered in post 1. We haven't verified CID yet, but - as mentioned earlier - we think both heads cracked from heat so there's a good chance the block is shot, too. Everything is paused for now while we verify CID and block integrity.

[steve25]

I am sorry Chris I was replying to 66dprint6 and his question, I should have made that more clear, but yes I know your info as in how you have presented it so far.

[Chris65LeMans]

Originally Posted by steve25

I am sorry Chris I was replying to 66dprint6 and his question, I should have made that more clear, but yes I know your info as in how you have presented it so far.

No problem - I should have looked back at post 49 to verify it was me!

[OG68]

Andrews Powder Coating in Chatsworth. Ask for Scott or Sandy.

http://www.powdercoater.com