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#1
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I did a quick search but came up empty. I'm looking for pics of some of the HIGH HORSEPOWER (1000-1500 poweradder) engines running dry decks and reverse cooling with remote pumps. I will o-ring my block this winter along with dry decking it for large amounts of nitrous (500+).
Along with dry deck set-ups, I see many guys switching to reverse cool systems. Do you guys run Rad mounted pumps or inline? I assume you use water manifolds to distributer water to the head, correct? Let's see some pics... Bryan P.S. Switched to CV1 heads, so not sure if extra head studs will work with the relocated intake ports? |
#2
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Send me a e-mail at shc70ta@gmail.com
I'll send you the pictures of the set up we used on punisher#1 engine. It made 930 hp NA and he uses nitrous with it.
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'70 TA / 505 cid / same engine but revised ( previous best 10.63 at 127.05 ) Old information here: http://www.hotrod.com/articles/0712p...tiac-trans-am/ Sponsor of the world's fastest Pontiac powered Ford Fairmont (engine) 5.14 at 140 mph (1/8 mile) , true 10.5 tire, stock type suspension https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qDoJnIP3HgE |
#3
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Email sent...
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#4
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[ Quote}
P.S. Switched to CV1 heads, so not sure if extra head studs will work with the relocated intake ports?[/QUOTE] Extra head bolts/studs should be easier with cv1's, the separated ports makes it easier than inline heads to add extra bolts if desired. Call Roland racing for details ps , Really looking forward to your build, should be amazing, welcome to the cv1 family!
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Car Craft Garage. Automotive Restoration Last edited by GREATGTO; 01-02-2011 at 09:37 PM. |
#5
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Well, I know the "inline" pattern has a couple studs that protrude into the oil returns. The CV1 has the intake port in that location now. I didn't know if a pattern has been developed for the CV1's yet. I'll give Jim a call...
Thanks, Bryan |
#6
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![]() Bret P. |
#7
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Yep, Steve emailed sent me some pics. Exactly what I needed to see.
Thanks Steve, Bryan |
#8
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I dont have any good pics - but do run a rad mouthed pump with 2 #16 lines to the front of the heads - out the back of the heads to the rear of the block - then thru the block and out the front - if that helps?
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#9
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Thanks Curt, that's what I'll be doing. Hell, I'm debating just going wild and dry decking it, o-ringing it, 9/16 studs, reverse cooling... she'll push the crank out before the head gaskets ever leak again! This baby's gonna be sealed! haha
Bryan |
#10
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what set up do you have on the front? a plate mounted inplace of the water pump? |
#11
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FYI, I Talked to Meziere today. For those of us using a timing cover, they will sell a plate in place of the water pump, along with weld-on fittings to run outlet hoses.
Bryan |
#12
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Goatracer
will you keep us posted price and maybe a picture of the water plate this sounds like and easyway to reverse our cooling without buying a belt drive setup although i would like to have one not just right now hill461 1964 GTO 2750 lbs 541 15.2-1 comp fully ported tiger heads glide 4-56 gears .915 lift lsm cam |
#13
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We could sell you that plate just in polished and a couple of weld fittings for whatever connection ¾ NPT or #12AN or #16AN. The plate will be $145. Here are a few links to the fittings: http://www.meziere.com/ps-413-335-wf34pfa.aspx http://www.meziere.com/ps-409-331-wf16fa.aspx Sincerely, Don Meziere *Attached are pics supplied by Steve C. and John Dinkle ( Punisher#1 ). Last edited by goatracer; 01-05-2011 at 08:11 AM. |
#14
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Just an FYI - there are a couple places you can get a billet t/chain cover that is made to take a SBC pump -- just buy the adaptors they make for hooking up a line to the mounting points of the pump and away you go
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#15
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Curt, can you give the names to these vendors? My pump motor took a dump and after some scrambling I was able to find someone with Chevy motor and strip it for the motor swap. It would be nice to be able have a more common option.
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Dave Polichena |
#16
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Butler and spotts - that I know of
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#17
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http://www.spottsperformance.com/timingcovers.htm Scroll to the Moon timing cover.
Fwiw the 55-59 factory reverse cool used two @9/16" holes (below the large holes) on the block face to return water from block to pump.(the large holes were blocked at the timing cover) Most of water through head returned via the crossover back to the radiator. "Sprinkler" tubes kept it from short-cutting to the crossover. Only a small amount of water actually pumped thru the block. Here is how I intend to do it NON dry deck, only without sprinkler tubes. http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=634494 If dry deck I would plumb inlet to front of head as in Steve C photo or as I'm doing, then return most of water from rear of head to radiator and run a smaller line (@ 9/16 id) tee'd into that and plumb to rear of block with outlets at the front going to radiator return. The block needs very little coolant flow compared to the heads. You may also want to plumb a seperate passage to and seperate pump to cool the center of the head. |
#18
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Here is another vendor that makes a cast timing cover that allows you to use SBC water pumps.
http://www.ramairrestoration.com/cat...8e76f811232368
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Jim 71 Firebird, best 1/8th mile time of 5.02 at 142 at altitude in Vegas |
#19
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So what would you do if you are running a BOP belt drive?
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#20
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I beleive those using the BOP beltdrive with reverse cooling are leaving the water pump off and attach the outlet fittings to the two holes. Then run two -12AN's to a Y-adapter, then back to the radiator. Same as above minus the block-off plate. Still need to use a remote water pump to feed the inlet water to the cylinder heads.
Bryan |
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