[foxgapLeMans]

My problem with my clutch rod is that I have run out of adjustment threads and the clutch still releases almost at the top. The clutch fork is an original from 1971 with over 100K miles on it. I have run into bent forks when working on the Fiero and I wonder if this could be the same problem on the LeMans.

How far off of the floor should I feel release of the clutch?

Is there a way to determine if the fork is bent?

I see that vendors sell new heavy duty forks and one vendor sells a longer heavy duty clutch rod. Maybe this is the route to go?

Where the rod meets the fork is there a bushing or plastic something supposed to be there? Mine at the moment is metal on metal.

Any suggestions are appreciated,

Mark

[PunchT37]

I have seen a `69 mustang fork that was bent, so...

[getmygoat]

Not the fork. Check the pivot bar/tube that runs from the frame to engine block. This has pins through it that provide hinge points that allow engine to move around. Over time the pivot bar will crack where the pin runs through it, reducing the displacement of the clutch fork relative to the pedal movement. The fix is to replace the pivot bar (they are reproduced) or weld it up.

[foxgapLeMans]

Since I have the engine out that should be easy to check. Another name for this part would be the Z bar correct?

[Judge273]

It's the part on the manual tranny that connect to the throw out bearing. Called the clutch fork. Z bar is another part all together.

[johnta1]

Check the pivot bar/tube that runs from the frame to engine block.

Another name for this part would be the Z bar correct?

Yes.

[Judge273]

Never heard of a bent z bar....broken at weld yes...

[foxgapLeMans]

I will check the Z bar in the morning for broken welds. If I find none I will order a new fork. You all think I should order the longer adjustment rod also?

[Txbobcat]

Don't buy parts until you know what you need.

[DOC]

Pivot ball worn?

[4SLASH6]

I had the same problem years back. had the wife get in the car and push pedal while I got underneath and viewed rod,z bar etc... as pedal began to be pushed, I was amazed how much things in general twisted and moved before the actual adjusting rod began to move. she had pedal over 1/2 way to floor! turns out where zbar connected @ block, there was a needle bearing which had tons of play in the outer lightweight pipe in which it was housed.....I replaced and welded a thicker pipe portion on z bar and replaced bearing with a brass bushing cut to snug fit. greased the hell out of everything, been fine ever since.

[johnta1]

I always thought the swivel type linkage on the counter shaft would get a lot of slop in it.
(where clutch fork rod mounts)

Looked also to be very easy to bend or break there?

The Firebird setup seemed a lot better?
(straight shaft with ball-pivots on end)

[foxgapLeMans]

I checked the Z bar for cracks or bad welds this morning and there are none that I can see. Nice having the engine out to really crawl around there. I also checked the pivot ball at the same time, it also seems fine. The clutch adjustment rod is slightly bent, laid on a flat surface it is noticeable. That part will be replaced with the longer rod that is now availible. I did notice that the clutch countershaft swivel that bolts to the block has a ton of slop in it and I would imagine that that could be a major problem if that is not what it is supposed to do. I mean I can move this thing about an inch or so back and forth on the bolt that attaches it to the block. The pin in it is tight.

opinions?

Thanks for all the advice everyone, Mark

[AdamIsAdam]

Interesting thread. I've had to adjust the rod more than I think I should. I'll also start inspecting for cracks or worn parts. My car was converted to a manual by the PO so who the heck knows how good a job was done.

[4SLASH6]

may want to inspect counter shaft swivels.....they and other parts of the assembly such as where the adjusting rod attaches, can have holes that are no longer round....can be oval shape and this can magnify slop, allows movement without moving clutch rod... I welded and re drilled the problem ones in my linkage..........just a thought.

[mklinger]

If originality is not an issue and you want to take all the slop out of the linkage try this set up with rod ends. Have this on two cars, works great. >

http://cmc.speeddirect.com/itemdesc....10-125&eq=&Tp=

[Held for Ransom]

Originally Posted by getmygoat

Not the fork. Check the pivot bar/tube that runs from the frame to engine block. This has pins through it that provide hinge points that allow engine to move around. Over time the pivot bar will crack where the pin runs through it, reducing the displacement of the clutch fork relative to the pedal movement. The fix is to replace the pivot bar (they are reproduced) or weld it up.

Or, this...
http://www.forums.maxperformanceinc....d.php?t=663849

[foxgapLeMans]

At this point in the cars life originality does not matter as much as function. I just want to be able to make the car as reliable as possible.

The speeddirect parts are looking awful tempting and I need to show the link on the Z bar to a friend that welds. I would like to have this problem fixed before the engine is ready to go back in.

[foxgapLeMans]

PMed KJL and thanks for the link Held For Ransom