[Formulajones]

The thing with unilites as mentioned is they don't like extra voltage, even for a few seconds. The minute you need a jump kiss that unilite goodbye. Can't even count how many times that happened to buddies of mine back in the 80's when those unilites were popular.
I never did get interested in those when I started seeing the failures.

[Cliff R]

A common denominator with factory bug-zapping HEI's, modules, etc is leaving the key on while you are working on the vehicle. That's a death sentence for them.
0,000
As for Pertronix, nothing but problems with them and they aren't any better if as good as the points you took out. Points as mentioned are dead solid reliable for tens of thousands of miles provided you have purchased good ones and running the correct amount of voltage thru them.

The "periodical adjustment" thing is often regurgitated when this topic comes up. You may need to take a look at 20,000 miles but should go at least 30,000 miles before you need to get in there and make any adjustment or just replace them.

Considering the way most of these cars are driven that's about 40-50 years worth of service so you can spend what time you have left worrying about other things.......

[straycat]

So who do I trust for points and condenser?

[mgarblik]

Point ignition is 100 year old technology developed about 12 miles from my house in Kettering, OH by Charles Kettering. Worked great then and still works just fine now. GM made adjustment of the points, (dwell time), awfully easy with a window in the cap in the late 1950's. A 5 minute check once a year and a possible tiny adjustment with a flexible hex key is all the maintenance required. We have to keep in mind that your ignition requires only the voltage necessary to find ground by jumping the spark plug gap. Usually, no more than 5-7 K volts. a stock point ignition can provide 20K when needed. Even though Petronix, MSD, and dozens of other brands advertise 50-60 K volt capability, the engine won't see this unless needed. Very high compression over 13.5:1, very lean or very rich mixtures, very high cylinder pressure from exotic fuels or power adders would be examples. There is allot to recommend basic point ignition for the average hobby car.

When depending on Chinese electronic components in my hobby cars, I do carry a point distributor in the trunk and a few tools to change it if it dies on a trip. The special features like multiple sparks at lower rpm's, rev limiters, and more spark energy are attractive. But often come at a reliability cost. My MSD 6 has left me stranded off the highway in the rain a couple times.

[Cliff R]

I'm still rebuilding a few OEM distributors here and there, but trying not to get too involved with that deal. I use and prefer NOS Delco points, or most anything USA made from the 1970-80's. Ebay has been a good source for those items. I currently have 6 sets on the shelf that were purchased last year for less than $10 a set. Some vendors as with most of these things are asking STOOPID money for them, you just have to look around a little and find a nice set in an old raggedy box that someone found on a shelf and are dumping on Ebay at a reasonable price. I've also found some complete tune-up "kits" and picked those up as well. I like the old style high density caps and some even have the "uni-set" points/condenser units in them......

[OCMDGTO]

DUI HEI

[Cliff R]

I've learned NOT to use or trust Chinesium electronics for anything related to distributors or ignition. For nearly 40 years I tried and tested all sorts of "bug zapping" ignition systems, points replacement components, and replacement modules for HEI's. With my HEI, for example, I always came back to the original "990" module it showed up with back in the mid-1970's. Everything else, even the ones that worked well eventually took a dump. The one that I liked the best and it also lasted the longest was the Mallory module with the dip-switch rev control feature. Although it was off about 200 RPM's it was flawless for several years till it crapped out like all the others.

As for replacement points I'm not even sure what's out there these days. NAPA used to stock an excellent uni-set that would last just about forever, but they were expensive even 25 years ago. Until I can no longer get NOS points from Ebay, swap meets, etc, I'll just stick with what I know makes the grade.........

[Cammer-6]

wondering if theres a solution to points replacement thats reliable.
For those that have dealt with an OHC--6 with factory AC you know why I ask.
I have the internal parts for a CD/TI ignition,just wondering whose module would be best to marry to that system.

[locomotivebreath]

Does anyone have a resistor wire idea without using the mopar style ballast resistor ?

[mgarblik]

Originally Posted by Cammer-6

wondering if theres a solution to points replacement thats reliable.
For those that have dealt with an OHC--6 with factory AC you know why I ask.
I have the internal parts for a CD/TI ignition,just wondering whose module would be best to marry to that system.

So if I understand you correctly, you have a way to trigger the system. A pick up coil/reluctor distributor? If that's the case, you could use it to trigger an older MSD 6. You would want one 10 years old or older that was USA made in Texas. They are all Chinese now and work as well as most Chinese stuff. Hit or miss. For that matter your could just use your point distributor to trigger an old MSD box. They are not fool proof, but pretty reliable.

[Formulajones]

Originally Posted by locomotivebreath

Does anyone have a resistor wire idea without using the mopar style ballast resistor ?

You can buy resistance wire and the necessary #56 style terminal to plug it into the bulkhead, then run it up to the coil.

A new wire harness is also made with both a resistance wire and a 12 volt wire already built in from places like American Auto Wire. So if you're dealing with a 50-60 year old car with it's original harness it might just be a good idea to buy a new engine harness, especially if it's been hacked on. They aren't that expensive.

Or what I've done in the past is like I said, run a new wire from the firewall bulkhead up to the coil. I'll join both a resistor wire and a regular 12 gauge wire for a full 12 volts together at the bulkhead crimped into the #56 style terminal, run both wires through the harness up to the coil and then have the option to run resistance for points or a full 12 volts to trigger a wiz bang setup if the need ever arises and just tuck the extra unused wire in the harness.

Lots of ways to go about it.

[Bill Hanlon]

Originally Posted by turbo69bird

As for petronix I have one in my 61 mga never had an issue Ethan one either. So idk. Maybe I’ve just been lucky

Maybe the Pertronics is just better than Lucas electrics??

[mgarblik]

Chinese vs Lucas, "The Prince of Darkness". What a choice. Honestly, I have personally not experienced a Petronix failure, but certainly heard lots and lots of stories.

[track73]

I had my MSD fail twice. It's now a reminder on the top of my parts cabinet.

[Sun Tuned]

They say that’s why all those little British cars have only two seats.
…they really aren’t big enough for anymore people anyhow and the second seat is for the “Riding Mechanic” because they’re always breaking down because of Lucas ignition parts.

Somewhere there is a picture of a glass jar full of smoke with a Lucas label on it . Replacement smoke…..

Even had a Lucas part number.

[Bill Hanlon]

Like this??

https://www.orarc.org/wp-content/upl...oke-Custom.jpg

[limejudge69]

I always heard the British drink warm beer because it's stored in a Lucas refrigerator

[Dragncar]

Originally Posted by nas t eh

Took the TA out for its first run of the season, got 3 blocks from home and the Engine died in gear down a small hill. Fortunately I rolled into the gas station and parked it at the edge of the lot and called for a tow truck.

I have been too busy to really check it out, but there is 12V at the coil and it did not run out of fuel. Car won’t start, even the next day after it cooled down.

I got talked into the Petronix 3 points replacement in 2015( the rev limiter was a very attractive feature). The Car did not get back on the road till last year, so not much testing, but I did read here of all the issues with electronic points replacement and wondered when” stranded at the side of the road “ was going to happen to me.

I will go back to points and condenser, any input on best product available is appreciated.

Summit sells the good ones, 50 bucks though.
On the bright side, if you can find a good USA made MSD box, Crane HI6 box or Mallory Hyfire box and run it with these points they will last for years and years.

https://www.summitracing.com/search?...%20gm%20points

[59safaricat]

Electronic ignition will eventually fail no matter what it's but a well built system will last longer.

In 1994, I was stranded with my uncle in his late 70's Dodge truck that burned up the original electronic control box.

In 1999, I was stranded in a parking lot with my buddy in his 1967 Mustang because his 8 month old MSD (I think it was a 6AL) box failed.

You can use whatever you like but ALWAYS have a set of points/condenser in the glove box with the proper tools to get it running again.

When I had a 1973 Chrysler, I had a spare electronic control box and ballast resister. Probably should have had a spare pickup coil too but none of them failed in the 5 years I had the car.

Always be prepared when driving old vehivles.

[unruhjonny]

at the risk of making someone here re-read my experience with electronic ignitions on a points car;
I was introduced to the bad side of electronic ignitions when the most reliable one out there (a GM HEI, with no foreign parts) died on me;
the culprit was the magnetic pickup.

I learned right there that electronics WILL let you down;
I also learned that a mechanical issue is easier to diagnose than an electronic one.

When these points conversions first came out, I thought they were cool;
I’m now fully on board with old fashioned “never going to leave you stranded” points.