[Tarl]

Haven't started my lemans in 3 years since I got my firebird. Putting in an order from summit and looking for an oil priming tool that works on Pontiac engines.

I saw older threads where a Mr. Gasket 3795G worked well but they don't sell it anymore, The Moroso 62200 looks similar but I am not sure if it's the same tool. I don't have a spare distributer to build one anymore.

Whats a good oil priming tool currently available from summit?

Thanks!

[steve25]

Butler has one for 25 bucks.

[sdbob]

I've used an old gutted distributor since the 60s.

[Tim Corcoran]

Originally Posted by sdbob

I've used an old gutted distributor since the 60s.

^^^^^^^^^
what he said

[carcrazy]

I got one from Paul Spotts a few years back.

[Gach]

The Butter one is really good. The end is just like distributor in, slips right over pump Thingy. Don’t have to worry about it slipping off. I had one made up off old distributor, but had problems with it. drove me crazy.

[Cammer-6]

think of another approach
remove oil pressure sending unit
adapt a new pump up 1 gallon garden sprayer to 1/8inch pipe
fill and pressurize at same time.
$16 on Amazon

[b-man]

At the most I’d pull the plugs and squirt a little oil into the cylinders then crank it until I saw it getting some oil pressure, put the plugs back in and start it up.

If it were my car I’d just start it without doing anything else and let it warm up like usual.

In your area I’d be running some kind of 5w-30 or 10w-30 preferably synthetic so it flows quickly to be able to do its job. I run 10w-30 here in So Cal where it’s a lot warmer now than in MA.

I was on a VW air-cooled forum and a guy was wondering if he needed to prelube his buggy engine after sitting a month. One guy suggested removing the plugs and spraying fogging oil into the cylinders and cranking it to get oil pressure.

I couldn’t believe it, after just one month you need to do absolutely nothing but fire it up. I have old and new cars that sometimes sit longer than that, I guess I should’ve pulled the plugs on my wife’s 2023 Civic and lubed the cylinders that we hadn’t driven in a month and drove to the supermarket today.

Back in 2019 I was swapping engines on my 1956 VW bus, to a good known running 1956 1200 I had removed from a bug back in 1985 to install a new 1600. All I did to get it ready to go was to rebuild the carb and fuel pump, replace a few external gaskets and scrape my finger around inside the small 2-1/2” or so drain plate opening at the bottom of the sump to remove as much sludge as possible.

Runs like a champ tugging around a 2200 pound panel bus with 36 horsepower that usually weighs over 3000 with me and the stuff I keep stored inside. I did a few oil changes on it because it doesn’t have an oil filter but that’s it, so far so good after 5000 or so miles of tooling around.

[Bill Hanlon]

.... but you have that dog pulling it down the street.

[b-man]

That tiny dog has been quite helpful getting my bus up some of the steeper hills in my area no doubt…..

[ZeGermanHam]

The unit sold by Butler is the same thing as the Moroso 62200 for Chebby, which you can buy for $20 most places. I have it and it works fine.

[Schurkey]

Originally Posted by sdbob

I've used an old gutted distributor since the 60s.

Attached. Spin it by hand, about 1 to 1 1/2 revolutions per second (60--90 RPM)

If you spend more than a minute at this, you're doing it wrong. Often about 30 seconds is plenty. When you see oil pressure on the gauge...you're done.

There is NO need to squirt oil over the fenders from the pushrods; and NO need to turn the crankshaft.

[Dragncar]

I turn the pump until I get oil to the top of every pushrod. If it takes 5-10 minutes turning the crank slowly so be it.
I have seen engines that people just "fire up" and was amazed how long it took for every rocker to get oil. Sometimes the pushrod-cup would start making noise.
Note, not my engines. I will not deal with that.

[67Lemons]

Just checked & the Moroso tool is everywhere for $20 including Amazon, EBay & online speed shops.

[steve25]

Even with the tool I would remove the valve covers and pull the plugs and spritz some oil into any of the cylinders that do not have,both valves closed.

Drop the oil and change it for a 5w20 or 30 .

Then continue with the priming and start up.

[Don 79 TA]

i've use a long wide screwdriver blade on the portable drill
don't recommend it unless you are ULTRA careful, because if you slip off, you can do some damage
the one i had fit like a glove, but have no idea how i got it, or where it is now after the last few moves
might have borrow it from one of the guys in the shop, i don't remember (age sucks sometimes)

[Skip Fix]

I still have one I got from HO Racing! And don't forget to spin the drill backwards!
I had to use an old distributor for my 409 as the housing has to seal the oil passages to get to both sides.

[Schurkey]

Originally Posted by Dragncar

I have seen engines that people just "fire up" and was amazed how long it took for every rocker to get oil.

That's what assembly lube is for.

[Dragncar]

Originally Posted by Schurkey

That's what assembly lube is for.

I have seen engines take so long it rubbed the lube away.
So I take no chances. My oiling system are modified anyway but that engine squeaking and squacking left a impression on me.
Think it was a Buick and they have terrible oiling systems. LONG pickup tube.

[b-man]

Old points distributor.

Get one and grind the teeth off the gear.