[Gach]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

Looks like a cheaply rebuilt engine, dreaded multi-eyebrow-nightmare pistons and a mix-match batch of rods. Probably had zero machine work done to the block or crank. But still suggests a forged would be a better choice.

That would be my guess anyway....


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Yep, there’s another video where he takes it to get checked out. definitely has a ridge and need to go .060 over. God I’d have that thing mag and cylinders sonic tested before I’d go .060 over. I hate to say it also pressure tested.

[Dragncar]

Originally Posted by hurryinhoosier62

Most of the Chinese cast cranks are JUNK. This isn’t an opinion; it is FACT. I’ve seen too many NEW off shore cranks that had so much taper and O/R that we were grinding them .030 under just to get them in spec Want to talk about the ones that were .040 out of stroke? The BRAND NEW we had to scrap because of this? Even using a .005 above stroke/.005 below stroke criteria we couldn’t correct this much out of stroke AND use .030 under bearings. My old friend and mentor had an expression he used a lot: “New doesn’t mean good”. Just because a part is “new” doesn’t mean it isn’t junk. OE Pontiac cranks should be subjected to NDT ( Non Destructive Testing) before reusing them. As Mike has said many times they were producing nearly 1,000hp in Grocery Getter with an OE Pontiac crank. A properly prepared and machined Pontiac engine OE crank is capable of handling 600hp on the street. If you are concerned about longevity, cryo treat then nitride the crank after re-grinding and equalizing the strokes along with regrinding the radii on all journals.

Yup, I bought a early IA Eagle cast stroker. Not only was the stoke off on this stroker, it was bent .004 and had .001 tapper on the journals. Not to mention severely rough thrust surface.
Whitmore had to send it to his crank guy. Now I gots me one of those 1200$ cast China cranks you can not trust or give away. So I gave it to my brother and implore him not to run it all the time.
He seems set on running it. Should be fine but.............

[steve25]

Knowing the number of cycles on a crank is meaningless unless you also know the G force loads on it, and these loads go up with the square of the rpm.
A cast crank might live forever at 6000 rpm ( like the 455 SD was designed to do) but snap instantly at 8K.

[hurryinhoosier62]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

My understanding is they corrected the crank issues in like 2015 or so, but could be mistaken. Regardless, everything needs to be checked thoroughly.

And that was an Eagle crank I bet?


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Nope. One of the 454 BBC cranks purchased from Competition Products in MI. Unless you have access to the metallurgical composition of the base cast iron used I would NOT purchase ANY off shore cast crank, period. The ONLY off shore forged crank I would use would be from SCAT or Molnar. Everything else has too much taper, too much O/R and are out of stroke on EVERY rod journal. I don’t like grinding new cranks .010 under or more to make them useable.

[hurryinhoosier62]

Originally Posted by Dragncar

Yup, I bought a early IA Eagle cast stroker. Not only was the stoke off on this stroker, it was bent .004 and had .001 tapper on the journals. Not to mention severely rough thrust surface.
Whitmore had to send it to his crank guy. Now I gots me one of those 1200$ cast China cranks you can not trust or give away. So I gave it to my brother and implore him not to run it all the time.
He seems set on running it. Should be fine but.............

Pretty much what we found. Consider this: the MAXIMUM allowable taper on the journals of a “v” style crank are .0002. This is after polishing. We had the majority of Wang Chung cast cranks be at least .010-.015 out of stroke with some journals being .001-.0015 out of round. OE cranks are pretty bad about being out of stroke but they rarely exceed taper specs or are out of round.