[77 TRASHCAN]

I keep reading about all the latest ring technology. Using thinner rings (1/16" and smaller), and metric sizes. Supposedly the thinner rings can seal great, with LESS drag, virtually eliminating cylinder wear, AND last...
\With such ring combinations, the oils used are thinner, so as to not over load the oil rings...

I've read about the "changed" rules of thumb when gapping the comp. rings also, that, I can fathom, makes sense...

Anyone in the Pontiac world run thinner rings??? What brand (not the gapless) thicknesses, and end gaps???

Of course this is a street engine

I have a set of Speed Pro L2279 Pistons (.060) that take 1/16" comp rings and 1/8" oil ring. The only thing sealed power sells is a "low" tension set for these pistons, not sure I want to test the waters w/ these rings, a seemingly race setup, in the day. Remember this will be a street car...

The machine work will be properly done w/ a torque plate hone job.
Thanks
Jeff

[BruceWilkie]

I got this info from ScreamingCheif....

"A good set of rings for those pistons are the Total Seal traditional style "classic race" file fit rings (not their gapless rings) those are pretty much the only rings for those pistons that are available as a standard tension ring set.

Part no. for those rings is Total Seal:
Classic Race # CR5490-35 (30 over)."

Looks the easy way to go ...

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ts...0-30/overview/

2279s are a good piston... a tid heavy with std pins but you can get lighter stronger pins. My TRW 2279's weigh 593 grams minus pin... not very much heavier than an Icon. You can buy pins that are around 150-155 grams... about 40-50 grams lighter than the TRW/SpeedPro pins. The other plus is the 2279's are the good 2618 material. The std forgings are 4032 material and crack prone. Put good rods under them and you'll be fine.

[Cliff R]

+2 on the Total Seal standard type rings, we use them here as well.

As for piston ring end gaps, all the sets we've acquired from them were file fit. Even the oil rings will need to be checked, as the last two sets had the ends butting together when we checked them.

I use .018"/.018" top/second for ring end gaps on all of the engines we've built here. Never had the first problem yet with these specs......Cliff

[PONTIAC DUDE]

I use the std Total seal or Hastings rings. Not a fan of the zero gap rings. No Prefer the 1/16" top and second rings for customers overall applications for aftermarket race design type pistons.
I set my ring gaps at .018/.020 top. .020/.024 second. Depending on wall clearance, skirt design and N/A application. std oil ring gap.

[72LuxuryLeMansLa.]

I'm going to use the 1.5mm,1.5mm,3mm total seal rings(not gapless) with the 4032 RaceTec flat tops. The pistons weigh 540g, the pins 135g and of course the rings are thinner than most, not by a bunch but I'm hoping they reduce unnecessary friction. I also bought the RPM Maxx-light Rods to get the lightest rotating/reciprocating assembly I could without spending a ton of money. I plan on using Mobil 1 0W-40 synthetic oil after break in. I'm hoping all of this adds up to a more efficient engine. We'll see.......

[77 TRASHCAN]

Thanks All!!!

I plan to use 6X-4's milled to get the comp. ratio to 10:1, Summit 2802 cam, real steel rods (not sure on who's yet),( looks like I won't get them from Ace, I guess he's completely done selling Pontiac stuff...). Jim Hand port work, modified iron intake, of course a Q-Jet. The domes on these pistons are not much, but I will check clearances with them too... Glad there is a choice on the ring setups

I have a selection of gears, of course, nothing close to a 3.73 or 3.90. TH350 and appropriate converter.

Karl,
I've asked questions about motor oil to many. My engine builder friend told me to use conventional for a fair amount to time, until the rings seat. He advised approx. 10,000 miles. Synthetic oil can allow new rings NOT to seat, and create problems (his experience). I've read varying opinions about this subject. Some say after a few dyno pulls you are O.K. I'm no expert...

[72LuxuryLeMansLa.]

Originally Posted by 77 TRASHCAN

Thanks All!!!

I plan to use 6X-4's milled to get the comp. ratio to 10:1, Summit 2802 cam, real steel rods (not sure on who's yet),( looks like I won't get them from Ace, I guess he's completely done selling Pontiac stuff...). Jim Hand port work, modified iron intake, of course a Q-Jet. The domes on these pistons are not much, but I will check clearances with them too... Glad there is a choice on the ring setups

I have a selection of gears, of course, nothing close to a 3.73 or 3.90. TH350 and appropriate converter.

Karl,
I've asked questions about motor oil to many. My engine builder friend told me to use conventional for a fair amount to time, until the rings seat. He advised approx. 10,000 miles. Synthetic oil can allow new rings NOT to seat, and create problems (his experience). I've read varying opinions about this subject. Some say after a few dyno pulls you are O.K. I'm no expert...

I plan on using http://www.drivenracingoil.com/dro/b...in-10w-40html/ to break the engine in for the first 500 miles and then I will switch to synthetic. I'm not an expert either but if those rings aren't seated by then (500miles) they never will be. I can see one thousand miles but not ten thousand.

[Cliff R]

With correct piston to wall clearance, ring material, round bores, no taper, and correct wall finish, the rings will be seated in about the time it took me to type this. If you have blow-by and poor ring seal after you have ran the engine in long enough to get it up to temp, check for leaks, and get ready for your first test ride, something is wrong someplace. The type of oil used is not really a player for rings seating. Lots of opinions on this subject, and how to "seat" rings by driving the car certain ways the first few hundred miles, etc.

Never once have we had the first problem with rings seating on any of these engines. You fire them up, warm them up a few minutes, make dyno pulls, start making track runs, or test drive the vehicle, rings are about as sealed up at that moment as they are ever likely to be....IF everything was done correctly mentioned above......Cliff

[Hooter]

On a recent rebuild, I switched to synthetic at 500 miles. No issues.