[steve25]

1) never do anything under the Gun .

2) never do anything but spray paint the motor without a detailed check list.

3) never do anything if the wife or girlfriend has pissed you off but take there most expensive Lip stick to write " your a Ass hole " on there cars Windsheild!!

But seriously , let's put a comprehensive list to together that has sub groups of Heads, block and reciprocating parts so even a newbie has a clear guide.

[johnta1]

Here is an Assembly Check by Lee on PY:

Assembly Check List

[DOC]

- assemble motor in a clean area.
- The inside of the block is never clean enough. When in doubt, wipe it out using lint free rags. one piece sand can raise hell with your motor....
- make sure your torque wrench is accurate
- inspect every part closely for wear, damage and cleanliness before in stalling.
- Just because a new part is new does not mean it is good and ready for installation without inspecting/ measuring/ test fitting.
- If a little is good does not always mean more is better when it comes to RTV Gasket sealer.
- every threaded hole should be cleaned and ever bolt should be cleaned before assembling anything.
- dont forget the hidden galley plug
- take apart and inspect/ blueprint the oil pump, even if it is new out of the box.
- Unless your friend is an engine builder or mechanic, dont invite friends over and have an engine building party. something will get dirty or missed and you will be out all of your beer for when the motor is done..

Great Thread!

[gtofreek]

1. Wipe the cylinders out with ATF and a clean rag. You'd be amazed at how much dirt comes off the cylinder walls, even after you clean them with lacquer thinner, or brake clean.

2. Like Doc said, never, I mean NEVER, just put an oil pump in without taking it apart, including the pressure relief valve, and de-burr and clean it well.

3. Always check everything, including bearing clearances. Don't just assume that because the bearings say .010", that they are actually .010". Assumptions cost money and time.

4. Always check cam and crank end play.

There's just a few.

[hurryinhoosier62]

One overriding rule for assembling an engine: NEVER assume anything. Verify EVERYTHING.

[AZ64GP]

All very good advice in this thread!

This is a general note and may seem obvious, but if while assembling the engine, something doesn't look right or appear to fit right, there's something wrong. Stop immediately. Don't force parts to fit just because "it should fit." Do some research, call the manufacturer of the part, speak to the helpful folks in this forum for advice, etc. before proceeding.

On a related note, you have to know when to stop for the day. It's easy to get tunnel vision and push yourself to accomplish tasks related to your engine (or car building in general), especially when you have a deadline. I find myself always able to think more clearly, not make mistakes and problem-solve more easily when I am not tired, overheated, distracted, etc. Having a clear mind and a rested body does wonders when you need to pay attention to something as important as building an engine.

[johnta1]

Here's a few gothcha's to think about:

Bottom End:

1. Make sure the tube for the dipstick is in the block before putting crank in

2. Put the curved pipe piece for the block dipstick tube to windage tray in before putting the main caps on for final tightening.

3. Put the oil pump shaft in before bolting the oil pump on.

......

[Nicks67GTO]

Originally Posted by gtofreek

1. Wipe the cylinders out with ATF and a clean rag. You'd be amazed at how much dirt comes off the cylinder walls, even after you clean them with lacquer thinner, or brake clean.

2. Like Doc said, never, I mean NEVER, just put an oil pump in without taking it apart, including the pressure relief valve, and de-burr and clean it well.

3. Always check everything, including bearing clearances. Don't just assume that because the bearings say .010", that they are actually .010". Assumptions cost money and time.

4. Always check cam and crank end play.

There's just a few.

My first engine build was done under the guidance of my neighbor. He told me to wipe the cylinders down with ATF. I remember thinking ....huh,why??? Did it anyway and I couldn't believe how much dirt came out of there even after wiping down with laquer thinner

[mgarblik]

Good items mentioned so far. I like to install the cam early in the build process. This is because the cam bearings can sometimes give you problems. Putting them in before the crank lets you verify placement of the oil holes and a test fit of the cam makes sure it turns freely. If you do have to work on the cam bearings, you may need to re-clean the block. That's why I do it early. When actually assembling the short block. A fully torqued crankshaft with rubber seal better turn with a couple of fingers on the nose. If not, something is wrong already. I install and fully torque 1 rod at a time and rotate the engine. That way if it gets noticeably tighter, I know which cylinder has the problem right away. I also like to check crankshaft thrust clearance with the cap off first and then with the thrust cap fully torqued. This confirms proper alignment of the thrust cap. Anything over a .002 change, it has to come apart.

[Schurkey]

EVERYTHING that moves gets some kind of assembly lube. Nothing that moves is installed "dry". Lube affects torque specs, that must be taken into account.

"Assembly lube" varies with the part, the application, and how long the assembly is expected to be stored before use. There are a hundred kinds of assembly lube. Any lube is better than no lube--although it's very easy to over-use the heavy moly-fortified grease often recommended for camshaft/lifter break-in.

[PurelyGTO68]

Originally Posted by Schurkey

EVERYTHING that moves gets some kind of assembly lube. Nothing that moves is installed "dry". Lube affects torque specs, that must be taken into account.

"Assembly lube" varies with the part, the application, and how long the assembly is expected to be stored before use. There are a hundred kinds of assembly lube. Any lube is better than no lube--although it's very easy to over-use the heavy moly-fortified grease often recommended for camshaft/lifter break-in.

Any recommendations on what type of lubrication should be used for assembly for various items? Let's say we plan to start up the engine within 60-90 days of assembly. What lube do you recommend for cam, lifters, crank and rod bearings, push rods, rockers etc.

Do you put anything on the gear sets (distributor, crank and cam)?

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

[PurelyGTO68]

Originally Posted by DOC

- assemble motor in a clean area.
- The inside of the block is never clean enough. When in doubt, wipe it out using lint free rags. one piece sand can raise hell with your motor....
- make sure your torque wrench is accurate
- inspect every part closely for wear, damage and cleanliness before in stalling.
- Just because a new part is new does not mean it is good and ready for installation without inspecting/ measuring/ test fitting.
- If a little is good does not always mean more is better when it comes to RTV Gasket sealer.
- every threaded hole should be cleaned and ever bolt should be cleaned before assembling anything.
- dont forget the hidden galley plug
- take apart and inspect/ blueprint the oil pump, even if it is new out of the box.
- Unless your friend is an engine builder or mechanic, dont invite friends over and have an engine building party. something will get dirty or missed and you will be out all of your beer for when the motor is done..

Great Thread!

Great tips. I didn't ever think about checking out a new oil pump. I guess I assumed they were checked by the manufacturer.

What should I look for when inspecting a new pump?
(Great timing for this thread....getting ready to assembly an engine pretty soon...)


Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

[gtofreek]

Originally Posted by mgarblik

Good items mentioned so far. I like to install the cam early in the build process. This is because the cam bearings can sometimes give you problems. Putting them in before the crank lets you verify placement of the oil holes and a test fit of the cam makes sure it turns freely. If you do have to work on the cam bearings, you may need to re-clean the block. That's why I do it early. When actually assembling the short block. A fully torqued crankshaft with rubber seal better turn with a couple of fingers on the nose. If not, something is wrong already. I install and fully torque 1 rod at a time and rotate the engine. That way if it gets noticeably tighter, I know which cylinder has the problem right away. I also like to check crankshaft thrust clearance with the cap off first and then with the thrust cap fully torqued. This confirms proper alignment of the thrust cap. Anything over a .002 change, it has to come apart.

Damn Mike, we must have learned from the same person. LOL! All your points are exactly how I do it! I always say[but forgot to above], always put the cam in very first!

[Schurkey]

Originally Posted by PurelyGTO68

Any recommendations on what type of lubrication should be used for assembly for various items? Let's say we plan to start up the engine within 60-90 days of assembly. What lube do you recommend for cam, lifters, crank and rod bearings, push rods, rockers etc.

Do you put anything on the gear sets (distributor, crank and cam)?

All my engines are fired-up immediately after assembly--within 24 hours at most. I don't have a specific protocol for engines that would be stored for months before getting started. There will be two things of consequence for the stored engine: does the lube applied stay in place during storage; so the part is still lubed three months later (or years later!) and does the lube also prevent corrosion of the metal if reasonable precautions are taken to prevent the entry of humid air, or corrosive vapors. Lots of folks put a plastic bag over the engine during storage. The smarter people use a shop-vac to remove excess air inside the plastic bag, and then "vacuum seal" the bag with a desiccant pouch inside.

In some applications, replacing a liquid lube (oil, ATF, specialized liquid assembly lube) with a thicker "grease" such as Lubriplate Motor Assembly Lube #105 or Sta-Lube Engine Assembly Lube with Moly might be appropriate--rocker balls, pushrod tips, valve tips and lip seal lips. This would also work fine for the distributor gear set. The Sta-Lube Moly product is fairly light-bodied, it's not the same as the very thick moly paste often included with camshafts for use on the lobes.

https://www.amazon.com/Sta-Lube-SL33...=sr_1_1&sr=8-1


Cylinder walls, rings, piston pins are going to get the usual ATF.

I don't know what you'd use on the timing chain, other than the usual oil and then hope it doesn't all drip off over the time the unit is in storage.

Flat-tappet cam lobes get heavy moly-grease which isn't going anywhere. Roller lifters, roller rockers, roller cam sprocket thrust bearings...I don't know. Perhaps the same #105 or the Sta-Lube product.

Prime the oil pump as usual--spin it until the oiling system has pressure. Once you have pressure, you're done priming.

Someone here has dealt with this successfully. Let's see what they say.

[Greg Reid]

Good thread and timely for me. I don't assemble engines often but have one on the stand.
I know it won't be started for a LOOONG time after I assemble so I was thinking of just temporarily dry-installing the valley pan and oil pan. That way, when I get ready to fire it, I can take a peek inside, re-oil everything I can reach and then seal it up.
Make any sense?

[DOC]

Originally Posted by PurelyGTO68

Great tips. I didn't ever think about checking out a new oil pump. I guess I assumed they were checked by the manufacturer.

What should I look for when inspecting a new pump?
(Great timing for this thread....getting ready to assembly an engine pretty soon...)


Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

My basic oil pump routine is clean, verify clearances, verify bottom plate is flat, de-burr edges of gears and change the relief ball to 9/16 and shim the spring as well. I put 1 small tack weld to hold the pickup on. its a tight fit to begin with but this is added insurance.

I have found 3 different M54 oil pumps with bottom plates that were not perfect flat, gears had slight burrs on the edges. and pretty dirty.

The below pics are a new plate that came off an unused pump. 2nd is after a few seconds on 400 grit on a piece of glass. 3rd is showing the machine grooves on the housing flat surface. you can see how not flat they are and the machine grooves. there is no gasket here so it is imperative that the 2 surfaces are flat and dont leak. I sand them flat and then polish with 1500 grit. it will be like a mirror. I sand just enough to make sure it is clean and flat. need to make sure you still have clearance after touching up the oil pump housing., I do very little sanding here. when all done it gets cleaned 3 times.

[mgarblik]

Again, very good suggestions in this thread. Having a clean area and a set routine helps things move smoothly. Having an area where all the parts to be installed can be laid out and ready helps too. I don't assemble pistons and rings without a tapered installer anymore except in a rare instance. This is an area for easy damage to the rings. You can be very assured when you can push the assembly into the cylinder with your fingers, the rings are where they belong and you haven't rolled an oil rail. Much more difficult to tell with a band type ring compressor. As far as assembly lube, many professional engine builders use no assembly lube, just use quality engine oil. I do not do it that way, but many do. I like a medium viscosity assembly lube like TORCO for bearings and wrist pins. I use engine oil for cylinder walls, pistons and ring packs. I like a high grade synthetic like Lucas assembly lube for valve stems and an extreme high pressure grease for push rods, valve tips, rocker arms, cam lobes, lifters. CMD is my favorite. There are as many assembly lubes as there are brands of oil, so don't get too wound up about specific brands. We all have our favorites. My general rule of thumb is areas that get splash lube only. get the high pressure lube of higher viscosity like CMD. Pressure lube areas and high splash areas get the thinner stuff or just lots of quality oil.

Just a little tidbit to think about: When engines are built at the factory, they don't use any assembly lube, just oil.

[gtofreek]

Speaking of rings:

Never twist rings onto the piston. This put a permanent twist in the ring, and can crack a Moly face. Instead, use a ring expander. They can be had for under $10 in most cases. They sell them at Sears, as well as most auto parts stores.

[77 TRASHCAN]

Yo Paul,
Happy 39th!

[gtofreek]

Thanks! Yeah, 39, that's it, 39. Sounds about right.