[steve25]

Just how long time wise is a short drive that water temp has not hit 160?

Are we talking a 7 minute drive or a 3 minute drive.

How is the carb acting up?

[79TA455]

Originally Posted by steve25

Just how long time wise is a short drive that water temp has not hit 160?

Are we talking a 7 minute drive or a 3 minute drive.

How is the carb acting up?

It was about 7 minutes after it had idled for close to 10; it appears maybe the car was not hot enough as I just checked the rad cap (which was cool to the touch before) and it is quite warm; there is also fluid in the upper rad hose now.

If you blip the throttle, it rev's and then quits instead of going back to idle. Also, if you blip the throttle enough to open the secondaries, I noticed gas squirting out onto the carb from the primaries. There is evidence of that on the inside of the breather housing and on the carb itself as it is wet. I'm going to have it rebuilt this winter.

Also, as an aside......the primaries have no butterfly and appeared to never have had them. Is that unusual? This is the 4th one I have owned in the last 30 years and they all had butterflies on the primaries.

[steve25]

Wait now, what do you mean by “ butterfly’s” do you actually mean a air valve flap as what’s above the secondary’s on the carb or a choke flap?

If you mean no air valve that’s the way the primary’s are and perfectly normal, no choke flap on the choke tower is not normal.
I am assuming your carb you are taking about is not a Holley.




If buy reving up the motor out of gear and diving into the secondary’s you see fuel from the primary accelerator pump coming up out of the carb then you have a timing problem ( cam or ignition) or you have a intake valve that’s not sealing well any more, or you might even have the firing order wrong.
At any rate that’s 100% not normal.

[geeteeohguy]

The very first thing to do with an engine that is pushing oil vapor out of the breathers is to do a cylinder leakdown test. That will tell you if your rings are worn, causing the blowby. (usually the issue).

[79TA455]

Originally Posted by steve25

Wait now, what do you mean by “ butterfly’s” do you actually mean a air valve flap as what’s above the secondary’s on the carb or a choke flap?

Yes, choke flap. Don't mind me.

[79TA455]

Originally Posted by geeteeohguy

The very first thing to do with an engine that is pushing oil vapor out of the breathers is to do a cylinder leakdown test. That will tell you if your rings are worn, causing the blowby. (usually the issue).

I'll have to get that done at some point but may not happen before winter since I don't have the tester. I'm going to add a bottle of Restore like a few said before and see what that does.

[kingbuzzo]

Would rings be the issue if she only blows when you hit it hard?

If its rings, then a minor top end rebuild is in order?

[steve25]

What’s in order at this point is a to perform a leak down test.
I would skip the compression test totally.

Starting a cold motor with out a choke means that until the motor is warm enough to idle clean on its own your dumping a lot of extra fuel into the cylinders, and this over time will ware them a long with the rings.
Just a tid bit to think about there !

[79TA455]

Originally Posted by steve25

What’s in order at this point is a to perform a leak down test.
I would skip the compression test totally.

Starting a cold motor with out a choke means that until the motor is warm enough to idle clean on its own your dumping a lot of extra fuel into the cylinders, and this over time will ware them a long with the rings.
Just a tid bit to think about there !

If/when I get the carb rebuilt, I will have a choke installed.

[78w72]

Originally Posted by 79TA455

If/when I get the carb rebuilt, I will have a choke installed.

Consider buying the correct Q-jet carb for it & ditch that edelbrock carb, engine will run better and get better mpg.

You mentioned steam from the exhaust, in cooler temps on cold start up most cars will have some type of "steam"or condensation vapors for awhile, it should go away when warmed up though. Easy way to confirm engine temps is with a cheap infra red temp gun pointed at the water neck.

If you can rent a comp tester its worth doing before you can do a leak down test, it can show the basic condition of things & identify if the rings are bad, a leak down test is best but for now there is no reason to skip a compression test IMO.

[Formulajones]

Originally Posted by kingbuzzo

Would rings be the issue if she only blows when you hit it hard?

If its rings, then a minor top end rebuild is in order?

Yes it very well could be. Like I mentioned back on post 8 I'd be doing a leak down test if it were mine. It's the only real test that will tell you the health of the engine inside and pinpoint where any problems may be.
Like I said, typically when you have blowby with oil pushing up through the PCV and crank case vent, it's a ring sealing issue. Not always, but typically. A leak down will give you a better idea.

If that's the case, it's really not a minor rebuild either. Short block will have to come apart. At a minimum a hone and re-ring will be needed and when I have them down that far it's steam rolls into just doing the whole engine and gets expensive quickly. If it has a bunch of miles I almost always find cylinders out of round, an overbore needed, new pistons.........you get the idea.

[steve25]

Spitting fuel back out the carb as he has seen and posted about is indicative of poor intake valve sealing.

By making just a compression test you will still not pin down the root cause of a low compression reading, where as with a leak down test you will hear air coming back up into the intake and out the carb if you prop it open, there by nailing down what the problem is.

It’s 100% possible for your motor to have both bad ring seal and a bad intake valve or intake valve seat,

[Formulajones]

Originally Posted by steve25

Spitting fuel back out the carb as he has seen and posted about is indicative of poor intake valve sealing.

By making just a compression test you will still not pin down the root cause of a low compression reading, where as with a leak down test you will hear air coming back up into the intake and out the carb if you prop it open, there by nailing down what the problem is.

It’s 100% possible for your motor to have both bad ring seal and a bad intake valve or intake valve seat,

Yeah I wasn't talking about the top of the engine, I'm still focused what was discussed early on in the thread before it sort of took a left turn.

I wouldn't assume anything until a leak down is done but with all the other problems that are now surfacing it's sounding more like the whole thing needs gone through.

[78w72]

As mentioned, a leak test is the best option... but if he cant do that right now as he stated, a comp test will at least show if the rings are shot by comparing the dry test results to an oiled test, if the numbers improve when wet, chances are the rings are shot.

Using the restore additive is probably a waste of money, if it does anything it will be very minimal at best & temporary.

If it were my car I would start with the basics for now instead of doing nothing until after winter.

[cdrookie]

Originally Posted by 79TA455

I'll have to get that done at some point but may not happen before winter since I don't have the tester. I'm going to add a bottle of Restore like a few said before and see what that does.

I wouldn't do that. The majority of it will lay in your oil pan.

[Formulajones]

Get yourself a leak down tester, they aren't that expensive.

Could even rent one most likely from your favorite chain store. Hopefully you have an air compressor.

Take an afternoon, perform the test and it will answer your questions. It really doesn't take that long.

[kingbuzzo]

Thanks guys

Sent from my Surface Duo using Tapatalk

[Greg Reid]

I bought a leak down tester last year. Less than $100 on eBay or Amazon. Don't recall at the moment.

[Stuart]

You haven't mentioned how many miles are on the car - the blowby could simply be a sign it's old, and is working it's way towards needing a rebuild.

[79TA455]

Originally Posted by 78w72

Consider buying the correct Q-jet carb for it & ditch that edelbrock carb, engine will run better and get better mpg.

It is a Q-jet.

Originally Posted by Stuart

You haven't mentioned how many miles are on the car - the blowby could simply be a sign it's old, and is working it's way towards needing a rebuild.

If the odometer is correct (it has gone around once), about 120,000 miles. Cannot remember the exact numbers right now.

Like many said, I think the engine is just tired and in need a rebuild. My brother had his done by Butler last year and as much I would like to go that route, I'm a single father working two jobs so I can survive and pay child support so that is just not in the books.