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  #21  
Old 02-03-2019, 05:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Squidward View Post
Uh, oh. I worry about what mad scientist stuff you are going to whip up with a little time on your hands!

A man and his tools can be a dangerous thing...


I look forward to impressing my fellow forum members. Buying a pan is too easy, I'd rather spend $200 worth of shop time making something

  #22  
Old 02-03-2019, 11:16 AM
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Formulajones Formulajones is offline
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Yep that's the idea Squidward, to just drain the pan enough so the there isn't a big mess when you pull the pan off. That's really the only advantage with it.

That's probably an exaggeration on $200 worth of shop time Dataway, lol, but I agree I'd rather add one. I spend about $3 on a magnetic drain pan bolt. I have 1/2-13 nuts on hand in the shop (actually have spare drain plugs on the wall as well). Takes me 5 minutes to drill a hold and weld it in.

I don't care for some of the cheap thin chrome aftermarket pans either just because they come with a plug. Those things are pretty flimsy. Prefer to use my factory GM deep sump pans and just take 5 minutes to add the plug. I have the pan off for service anyway so it's not like extra time taken there either.

  #23  
Old 02-03-2019, 04:27 PM
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Agree that a complete drain isn't the requirement for a drain plug in an transmission pan, just getting it so you can take it down without spilling a quart or more of ATF while trying to drop it is all that's necessary. It's not like you have an external filter on the engine, you have to remove the pan to get to the filter 99% of the time.

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  #24  
Old 02-03-2019, 08:11 PM
Schurkey Schurkey is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NeighborsComplaint View Post
Pan with a drain plug is around $20 from Summit
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g3884b

My concern is that the price is too good to be true. Therefore, likely Chinese. Therefore, likely THIN steel, warped, and a leak-generator.

"I" would rather stuff a drain plug into an OEM pan. I used to braze a castellated nut into the inside of the pan, then use a matching bolt and nylon washer to seal. The castellated nut would be brazed-in with the "teeth" down, against the bottom of the pan. That way, fluid could drain to the very bottom through the openings in the nut.

Or just do it the lazy way, with the bulkhead connector "kits" sold by half-a-dozen different vendors. I've done that, too.

  #25  
Old 02-04-2019, 02:38 AM
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Got'er done.

Turned down a 1/2-13 nut into a 5/8 stepped bung, faced the ends nice and square, TIG'ed it from the inside. Then faced the bottom side of a bolt, relieved the threads under the head so it would screw all the way down nice. Looks like with a nylon or copper washer it will work nicely. Hopefully it will be out of the way of any components when the trans is installed. Will probably replace the bolt with a magnetic plug at the first drain. Could be lower down in the pan but I figured any time I was draining fluid I'd be pulling the pan and changing the filter anyway.

Thanks for the suggestions!










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  #26  
Old 02-04-2019, 08:43 AM
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Beautiful work!

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  #27  
Old 02-04-2019, 09:00 AM
Joel Koontz Joel Koontz is offline
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I welded a flange nut into the side of my TH-400 pan with the flange on the out side of the pan. I then use a bolt with a copper washer to seal.

  #28  
Old 02-04-2019, 09:54 AM
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The problem with China pans either transmission or engine oil is the sealing surface under the plug

They spot weld the nut inside the pan which heavily distorts the surface then put a hard thick plastic washer under the plug head which doesn't conform well to surface irregularities, They Leak

Original GM is also spot or induction welded but done with more care because they couldnt weather a 99.9% failure rate

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  #29  
Old 02-04-2019, 11:55 AM
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Jeez, went on McMaster looking for copper sealing washers ... evidently only metric devices need sealing washers.

  #30  
Old 02-04-2019, 05:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dataway View Post
Jeez, went on McMaster looking for copper sealing washers ... evidently only metric devices need sealing washers.
Walk into any "real" parts store, and tell them you want to see the assortment of copper brake hose washers they have hidden under the counter.

A parts store will also have plugs with gaskets permanently attached, nylon washers that can be used as gaskets, and Dorman makes rubber/metal washers in various sizes.

  #31  
Old 02-04-2019, 06:24 PM
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Sounds like a plan.

Cause I don't need a pack of 25 metric washers that almost fit

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