[dataway]

Here are some pictures of my oil pan installed with a BOP one piece and torqued to 12 ft lbs.

I'm a bit concerned about the hump at the rear main. The gap between pan and main bearing cap is considerably larger at the top of the hump in the pan that it is at the sides. Pan is just a stock original pan. I have no idea why it would look like this. Normal?

Also ... do my joints at the edges of rear main cap and at the timing cover look ok? Used a small bead of black RTV as seen in the BOP instructions.

I also have a question about valley cover fit. My valley cover was a bit tweaked, when bolted down it was high across the center, visible with a strange edge on the bench, and when installed I could slip a .020 feeler gauge right under the cork gasket. So, I put the center edge in a machine vice and tweaked it, on both sides. Seems to fit much better now. Question is .... is it a no-no to hand tweak the cover like this? Are leaks in the cover common? The original problem was probably created when I split the cover to clean the inside and then tack welded it back together. I don't want to find a leak here when the engine is all together ... but I also don't want to waste $150 for a re-pro unless it's necessary.

Thanks guys

[steve25]

I only use a cork Gasket on top of the main cap with a pile of silicone sealer that I later cut off the excess when cured.
Yes, the cork is a tad harder to use as you need to adhere it to the cap first, but I have never had a leak back there in 45 years doing it this way.

[DOC]

take something small and flat and gently push on the rear gasket going over the rear cap. If the gasket moves easily, it will leak....

As many can attest to, anything that is aftermarket, you need to inspect and trial fit closely. I had to modify the aftermarket oil pan and aftermarket valley cover just this last couple of weeks assembling my 455.

[ponchjoe]

I'm following along here as I will be installing the same gasket this weekend. Is the seal not all the way down in the rear main? I think the corners look fine. As far as a valley pan, by a new one, you can't afford to have it leak is my recommendation.

[dataway]

Yep, I think the seal is all the way down on the main, the way the gasket it built makes that part easy. Nothing appeared to be binding as the pan sat down nicely in the back, and drew down with the bolts the expected amount nice and smooth.

I'll push on the seal that I can see, and check if it moves easily.

I'm going to be unhappy if I have to take it apart, cut off that part of the gasket and use cork and silicone back there.

[mysticmissle]

if i remember correctly mine sat a little higher than i would have thought. It has not leaked a bit, so it is doing its job. Just do not try and use one on an IA2

[ponchjoe]

Dataway, go with it and do the tilt test to check for leaks.

[ta man]

Originally Posted by ponchjoe

Dataway, go with it and do the tilt test to check for leaks.

X2.... When it doubt. So did you cut the tabs off? That is the one thing that concerns me is no retaining tabs on the pan. I recently just installed a BOP gasket on a Canton 400 pan, an excellent fit and the pan had exactly the same retaining tabs. I used "The Right Stuff" on the front on the timing chain/ oil pan transistion, where the gasket meets the block at the back, I also smeared a very light coat on the pan where the retaining tabs go ....engine is dry as a bone.

[dataway]

Took a small screwdriver the poked at the seal at the top of the hump ... no movement, seems like it's in there pretty tight. I'm probably a few months away from a tilt test. I work slow.

You guys have a preference for valve cover gaskets? I just put on a set of the Edelbrocks, jeez, things are about 3/8" thick. That's another area I can't abide a leak. And every set of used covers I've ever seen have the bolt holes distended from over tightening.

[ponchjoe]

I bought a set of neoprene with a steel core off of eBay for like $20 earlier this year. I will be reusing them when the vcs go back in inthe next couple of weeks.

Found the link

https://www.ebay.com/itm/181760118454

[dataway]

Those look nice for the price. About the same thickness as the Edelbrocks also.

[ponchjoe]

They fit well but need a little silipuddy to hold them in place. It cleaned off easily though when disassembled.

[redbird68]

any update on whether or not you had a leak at the rear cap?

i just installed a BOP one piece pan gasket using a new 'stock replacement' canton pan from Butler. i have the exact same situation as you show in your pics. i am considering pulling pan and adding a thin smear of RTV into the cap groove and on the pan....so both sides of the seal at the rear cap.

[HWYSTR455]

I've never used a BOP 1 piece, but I bet if you trim the bolt holes in the gasket on either side of the cap, when it pushes down on the gasket, it will have a place to go, and not out the back/top.

You could put a slight dimple or tap down the top rear of the pan to help prevent some of that too.

I've always had to slightly tweak valley pans to get them to seal better, nature of the beast I guess. I always use a cork gasket, and I glue it to the valley pan, using a slight squeeze of RTV in the corners. Test fit without the gasket, make your adjustments, then put the gasket on. That way, you know it will fit tight.

You can walk around the outside with a rubber mallet, even use a large screwdriver on the lip, and tap it down.

I also usually trim the cork gasket where the intake ports are, since I've seen where it can prevent the intake from sealing right. I've gone as far as beveling the bottom edge of the intake slightly to help too. This is more of an issue with aftermarket intakes, but guess OE intakes could probably see the same problem.

.

[John Milner]

My 1 piece gasket looked very similar to that after I torqued the pan down. I thought something was wrong and took the pan back off. I ended up putting the pan back on and going with it and it sealed off great.

[chiphead]

Originally Posted by DOC

take something small and flat and gently push on the rear gasket going over the rear cap. If the gasket moves easily, it will leak....

As many can attest to, anything that is aftermarket, you need to inspect and trial fit closely. I had to modify the aftermarket oil pan and aftermarket valley cover just this last couple of weeks assembling my 455.

Exactly. I used the BOP gasket with a Milodon 7QT pan and got the same hump. The gasket tabs didnt line up with the slots in the pan, so I cut them off. The gasket "pooched" through the pan slots a bit after torquing it down. I pushed on the protruding gasket there, and the gap between pan and cap with a tiny screwdriver. The gasket didn't move, so I'm pretty sure it's good. I also did the tilt test, and it didn't leak.

I used Hylomar dressing and it fit fine, squishing the blue goo out a bit as I tightened it. I used a bit of gray sealer in the corners like you did.

[dataway]

So far with maybe three hours running time on the stand .. not a drop, not even a mist of oil anywhere on the gasket or rear seal (also BOP one piece).

[ponchjoe]

Mine never leaked a bit either

[redbird68]

thanks guys

my pan has 2 slots and one hole that fit well for gasket tabs, i did not think to push on the gasket through the slots to check for firmness. good idea.
i will try that and if feels soft i will probably pull and add a little rtv. i am not going to go as far as a tilt test....i believe if the gasket is firm indicating compression it will be fine.

thanks again

[428goat]

I used the Right Stuff for the valley pan and no gasket. Put it on the engine and let it sit for a little and then installed the valley pan. No leaks..