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#1
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Rear Main Seal Tilt Test
I have installed the BOP one piece rear main seal. I have 6 quarts of oil in the pan and am doing the tilt/leak test. It has set over night and dry as a bone. I am curious if I have the engine tilted enough take a look at the picture and let me know if you think this is tilted far enough for a good test. Thanks.
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Tim Corcoran |
#2
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I think that should do it. Here's how far I tipped mine back - and it leaked.
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Ken '68 GTO - Ram Air II 464 - 236/242 roller - 9.5” TSP converter - Moser 3.55 Truetrac (build thread | walk around) '95 Comp T/A #6 M6 - bone stock (pics) |
#3
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BOP one-piece seal.
After sitting overnight with 5 quarts in the pan no leaks. The next day it was broken in on the run stand and it ran for a couple of hours leak-free.
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1964 Tempest Coupe LS3/4L70E/3.42 1964 Le Mans Convertible 421 HO/TH350/2.56 2002 WS6 Convertible LS1/4L60E/3.23 |
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#4
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I had 6 quarts in the pan and let it sit overnight and not a single drop, it's bone dry up there. Let hope it stays that way after I get it in the car and I start driving it.
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Tim Corcoran |
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#5
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Mine was leaking with an hour or two so if you made it overnight, you're probably looking good.
Wade at BOP has mentioned that he doesn't think the tip test is reliable since some oil can get by the crank serrations. IMO the test seems to be a pretty good indicator of whether things will seal or not. I had the one and two piece leak on me with the tip test. The graphite seal is still dry after a few weeks.
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Ken '68 GTO - Ram Air II 464 - 236/242 roller - 9.5” TSP converter - Moser 3.55 Truetrac (build thread | walk around) '95 Comp T/A #6 M6 - bone stock (pics) |
#6
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Here's mine, left it there a couple of days, not a drop. BOP one piece.
I'd guess if the serrations are enough to let oil pass in the tilt test, they are probably large enough to trash the seal after running for a while.
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I'm World's Best Hyperbolist !! |
#7
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I inadvertently used the tilt test on a RAIV about 17 years ago. A friend had it built by a well known Va. builder (since retired), and he used the BOP one piece. It was hanging in the air between the fenders with the 4 speed attached, when a steady stream began to run off of the bell housing. Back on the stand! The builder drove down and replaced it again, and it leaked less! He blamed it on the serrations, so I guess that's a popular excuse.
About a year later we pulled it out and shipped it to the guys in Tenn. to be built again. Same crank and no leaks. |
#8
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The final test will be when I start driving the car fingers crossed. Thanks for all the responses.
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Tim Corcoran |
#9
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Tilt test won’t tell if it will leak or not. After a day of tilt test, with no leaks, my one piece seal leaked like a sieve with the engine running. Wasn’t the seals fault, it was mine. Rushed the install trying to make a NMCA race two days later. Very important to follow BOP’s installation instructions to the letter.
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Less said,,,,,,,, Less mended. |
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#10
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Quote:
Tom V.
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"Engineers do stuff for reasons" Tom Vaught Despite small distractions, there are those who will go Forward, Learning, Sharing Knowledge, Doing what they can to help others move forward. |
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#11
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Quote:
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Will Rivera '69 Firebird 400/461, 290+ E D-Ports, HR 230/236, 4l80E, 8.5 Rear, 3.55 gears '64 LeMans 400/461, #16 Heads, HR 230/236, TKO600, 9inch Rear, 3.89 gears '69 LeMans Vert, 350, #47 heads: Non-running project |
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#12
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Having been that long ago it very well could have been the one piece. The engine was strong with no issues, but leaking at the rear main, being why it was removed. Not my intention to cast doubts on the reliability on the one piece. The mention of serrations is what drew my attention. My apologies to Wade or anyone else taking offense.
I don’t remember what I ate for lunch that day either. I do remember Tom talking with the builder the following year at VMP though. |
#13
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Yeahhh. CRS has been trying to get the best of me, here in last 3-4 years, I'm not giving in!!!
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1977 Black Trans Am 180 HP Auto, essentially base model T/A. I'm the original owner, purchased May 7, 1977. Shut it off Shut it off Buddy, I just shut your Prius down... |
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#14
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Quote:
I'll just throw this out there. Another issue with rear main seals is blow-by. Seems to me when increasing H/P on these engines and higher rpm's tends to create more pressure in the crankcase. I've seem oil dipstick pushed out more than once. I guess making sure your PCV system is in good working order. Or running a vacuum pump in the case of higher H/P, Torque and RPM's. Just saying. I'm hoping it's all works out good for you also Tim.
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68 Firebird. IA2 block, 505 cu in, E-head, Solid roller 3650 weight. Reid TH400 4:11 gear. 29" slick. Best so far 10.12@133 mph. 1.43 60 ft. 76 Trans am, TKX .81 o/d, 3.73 Moser rearend, 468 with KRE D-ports, Doug headers, 3" Exh. |
#15
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FWIW my 1-piece rear seal leaked badly for a year but has stopped leaking the past few years. Dry back there. Wore-in? 103 cast crank.
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