[Mike Fowke]

Congratulations Paw Paw.

Mitsubishi split system. Worth every penny.

[David Jones]

Originally Posted by Mike Fowke

Congratulations Paw Paw.

Mitsubishi split system. Worth every penny.

I actually googled "mitsubishi split system" system to see what kind of clutch actuation setup they offered. All that came up were HVAC systems. So, I searched "mitsubishi split system clutch". Still nothing but HVAC systems.



Then I figured it out.......

[David Jones]

Finally bled the clutch yesterday. I found very little air and the fluid was running clean and clear when I finished. I noticed the pedal did not return to it's normal position afterwards and required a hand to lift it back to where it belonged. Same as before. I fired the engine anyway and the shifter wouldn't get 1st or reverse. Before I give up, I'm going to try bleeding it again, since the next step will be taking the transmission out to replace the slave cylinder and, while I'm in there, the clutch. Sigh.....

[David Jones]

.....another thought is ditching the hydraulic clutch and going mechanical, as has been suggested in the past numerous times. Does someone offer a "kit" for that? I've got the factory pedals, just need everything else and some instructions.

[Formulajones]

Hydraulic clutch life unfortunately. Great when they work, frustrating when an issue crops up. Dealt with that with OEM systems on 4th gen f-bodies. Real fun when the slave takes a dump and you're no where near home.

If you want to go mechanical there are several places that offer/reproduce the parts and it's a pretty straight forward swap.
Even the 5 speed places offer complete kits for those going overdrive from an auto but I've found it a bit cheaper from other retailers if you don't mind shopping around.

[tstroud]

What you described about the clutch not disengaging all the way and when bleeding the clutch and the pedal did not return all the way to the top sounds like a bad clutch master cylinder. I had the same thing happen in my ford escape and in my Fiero.
The escape master was only $20.00 so I just replaced it. The Fiero master was more expensive so I disassembled it and cleaned it up. It worked fine after that. It’s been 2 years since I did that.

[chuckies76ta]

I'm confused. Are you referring to the hydraulic throw out bearing as the slave cylinder ? Can you not get someone to activate the clutch pedal and watch through the hole in the bell housing to see what the bearing is doing? I have a hydraulic clutch setup from American power train. When I first install the kit, the M/C lasted about a month before it started leaking. I replace with a better M/C from Wilwood and I make a bracket to support the push rod on the M/C . it's been like 2 years ago. So far, no leaks.
If the M/C bypasses fluid it will leak fluid out through the push rod location. Sounds like maybe you just need to re-shim your hydraulic bearing due to clutch wear, or your clutch is worn out.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P_R2hw2wkV8

[David Jones]

Originally Posted by tstroud

What you described about the clutch not disengaging all the way and when bleeding the clutch and the pedal did not return all the way to the top sounds like a bad clutch master cylinder. I had the same thing happen in my ford escape and in my Fiero.
The escape master was only $20.00 so I just replaced it. The Fiero master was more expensive so I disassembled it and cleaned it up. It worked fine after that. It’s been 2 years since I did that.

I replaced the master a few weeks ago and my post yesterday was me just getting around to bleeding it. The pedal feels just like it did before I replaced the master.

[David Jones]

Originally Posted by chuckies76ta

I'm confused. Are you referring to the hydraulic throw out bearing as the slave cylinder ? Can you not get someone to activate the clutch pedal and watch through the hole in the bell housing to see what the bearing is doing? I have a hydraulic clutch setup from American power train. When I first install the kit, the M/C lasted about a month before it started leaking. I replace with a better M/C from Wilwood and I make a bracket to support the push rod on the M/C . it's been like 2 years ago. So far, no leaks.
If the M/C bypasses fluid it will leak fluid out through the push rod location. Sounds like maybe you just need to re-shim your hydraulic bearing due to clutch wear, or your clutch is worn out.

Yes, hyd throw out bearing as the slave.
The master I replaced was a Wilwood and I replaced it with another.
The old master was not leaking and neither is the new one. The are no visible leaks in the system anywhere.
After I waste a bit more fluid fruitlessly bleeding it again, it seems to me anything else that could be done will require removing the transmission, no matter what the problem is. When that happens I'll either go manual clutch operation and a new clutch etc or replace the the hydraulic throw out bearing and a new clutch. Partially worn parts will not be reinstalled.

It did occur to me that the hose from the master to the slave could have collapsed inside, similar to a brake hose. I don't know it that's possible? The lower section of the hose is actually a metal tube, but the upper is woven stainless outside with some sort of lining inside. It all looks good from the outside and fluid had no issue dropping down to the bleeder, just outside the bellhousing.