[Bentwheelbob]

Just finished paint correction on my 1972 Black Formula. I like Wolfgang products better than 3M, especially for a non-production setting. That said, there are a lot of really great products in the market now. The more common name for an oscillating buffer is DA or dual action. I like the Flex buffer. With the right machine, pad and product, you won’t burn through. My recommendation is to make your decisions, buy the stuff, and then buff your family car first to get experience and confidence.

Start at post 1649...

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...736820&page=83









Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[Chief of the 60's]

Originally Posted by MUSLCAH

Lol...your playing nice tonight..

I have saved a lot of paint in my days. Never needed an orbital yet. I have also owned many black cars (yes, I regret that) and never had a swirl mark. That includes my land yacht 1957 Buick Special Riviera. An orbital does make the job easier, but I believe it does not work (cut) anywhere near as fast. And when I am buffing a complete car, the last thing I want is for it to take longer than I want it to. Especially now that I am older and do not want to do it in the first place anymore. This year, I have 4 of my cars I need to buff. Thank god only 1 of them is a dark color.

[Chief of the 60's]

Originally Posted by Bentwheelbob

You'll catch hell around here for those bias-plys

[MUSLCAH]

Originally Posted by Chief of the 60's

I have saved a lot of paint in my days. Never needed an orbital yet. I have also owned many black cars (yes, I regret that) and never had a swirl mark. That includes my land yacht 1957 Buick Special Riviera. An orbital does make the job easier, but I believe it does not work (cut) anywhere near as fast. And when I am buffing a complete car, the last thing I want is for it to take longer than I want it to. Especially now that I am older and do not want to do it in the first place anymore. This year, I have 4 of my cars I need to buff. Thank god only 1 of them is a dark color.

An orbital buffer is a finish buffer......the Rotary Buffer is used first ....for a fast cut and for rookies to burn through edges. And no....you cannot buff out 2000 grit scratches with an orbital sander.....but it can remove swirl marks like nobody’s business.

[Chief of the 60's]

I also don't bother with 2000 and above. Mind as well used the morning paper.

[MUSLCAH]

Originally Posted by Chief of the 60's

I also don't bother with 2000 and above. Mind as well used the morning paper.

I thought you said you didn’t like buffing...... 2k ..is easier to buff than 1500..... or you still using what I used in the 70’s to cut Lacquer ...600 grit ?

[MUSLCAH]

Forgot the smiley face

[MUSLCAH]

I tried the 3m Trizact 2000... Then 3000...then 5000...wet with a DA.....After sanding with the 5000....the paint started to shine !! Buffed real easy too. Expensive paper ...

[Chief of the 60's]

Originally Posted by MUSLCAH

I thought you said you didn’t like buffing...... 2k ..is easier to buff than 1500..... or you still using what I used in the 70’s to cut Lacquer ...600 grit ?

LOL! Depending on how bad the paint is I still may use 3M Super Duty compound. Yes, you still can buy it. 2000 does polish up quicker but it takes forever to wet sand. I like to use 1500 and start with a more aggressive compound. I like letting the buffer do the work, not me.

I must confess, most of the paint I deal with now is well cured. That is why I can be more aggressive. My process would obviously be different on fresh paint.

[Chief of the 60's]

Originally Posted by MUSLCAH

I tried the 3m Trizact 2000... Then 3000...then 5000...wet with a DA.....After sanding with the 5000....the paint started to shine !! Buffed real easy too. Expensive paper ...

You have more time on your hands than I do.

Money too.

[MUSLCAH]

See what you started Dick !!!!

[Chief of the 60's]

Don't blame Dick for your wealth.

[77 Canamman]

I'm gonna give the Wolfgang products that BWB used on his black beauty a try on my own black beauties. You can't argue with those exemplary results.

[Chief of the 60's]

You can tell a nice finish by photos?

[77 Canamman]

Originally Posted by Chief of the 60's

You can tell a nice finish by photos?

With some photos, absolutely. This photo of this flawless finish was taken with a high resolution cell phone camera, so you would be able to see a fleck of dust, a piece of fly sh-it, minute scratches, surface irregularities, hazing, or other flaws. It is as perfect as black gets. For the paltry $60 I spent for the Wolfgang products BWB listed in his posts, I'll take a chance based upon the photos, and his opinions expressed here.

[72projectbird]

I have a 2003 Silverado SS in Onyx Black. I bought it from a guy who let it sit in the driveway for over a year under a tree. Poor thing baked in the sun, got rained on, snowed on, and had tree crap all over it. It almost looked gray instead of black.

I hit it with a clay bar, and then the Makita using Meguiars 105 & 205 on foam pads. I finished it off with some Mothers wax, and it looked 100x better than it did when I got it. That said, it had a bunch of swirl marks in it. Can I use the Makita with the swirl remover products listed here, or do I need something like an orbital?

Here's how it looks now:

[MUSLCAH]

Originally Posted by 72projectbird

I have a 2003 Silverado SS in Onyx Black. I bought it from a guy who let it sit in the driveway for over a year under a tree. Poor thing baked in the sun, got rained on, snowed on, and had tree crap all over it. It almost looked gray instead of black.

I hit it with a clay bar, and then the Makita using Meguiars 105 & 205 on foam pads. I finished it off with some Mothers wax, and it looked 100x better than it did when I got it. That said, it had a bunch of swirl marks in it. Can I use the Makita with the swirl remover products listed here, or do I need something like an orbital?

Here's how it looks now:

Us Professionals...finish the job with an Orbital buffer...with McGuires products and Micro fiber pads......it’s was a big secret back in the day (orbital buffers ) ....but now with the internet ...the cats out of the bag.

[Bluesugar]

Bentwheelbob, would you mind letting us know the brand of car lifts you have in your outstanding organized garage!!

[Chief of the 60's]

Hmmm..... "Us" professionals do not need a special anything other than our experience. Experience is what works a tool. A tool never made anyone a better anything. The only thing it may do is make the job easier. I worked with an old timer once whose body hammers were a ballpeen and a claw hammer. He could straighten any panel with them aqnd was damn good at it. I also know a guy that "hand rubbed" the new paint on his '65 GTO and it looked just as good (if not better) than some guys who used an orbital polisher.

Matches can start a fire, but experience can start one with flint or a stick.

[Bentwheelbob]

Originally Posted by Bluesugar

Bentwheelbob, would you mind letting us know the brand of car lifts you have in your outstanding organized garage!!

Thanks. One is a Direct Lift and the other is an Atlas. Both came from Greg Smith Equipment. There are better US made lifts, but they cost substantially more. If you buy a lift I highly recommend getting the sliding bridge jacks so you can lift you car off the lift. PM if you have questions.

Originally Posted by 72projectbird

I hit it with a clay bar, and then the Makita using Meguiars 105 & 205 on foam pads. I finished it off with some Mothers wax, and it looked 100x better than it did when I got it. That said, it had a bunch of swirl marks in it. Can I use the Makita with the swirl remover products listed here, or do I need something like an orbital?

Yes you can, however, as a weekend warrior I am a little scared of rotary polishers and stick with the DA’s. Less chance of cut through and better control. In other words - more idiot proof. Also, I think the DA’s give a better final finish.

The Autogeek site provides good references for machine speed. I have attached a link for the finishing glaze. Pad selection is critical as well. You don’t want to use the same type pad for final finish as for defect removal. There are lots of great compounds, polishes and pads out there. I know what works well for me and what I am comfortable with. 3M, Meguiars and Menzerna are all also excellent, but I have a system that works and I have experience with. Good luck.

https://www.autogeek.net/wolfgang-finishing-glaze.html