[jimib]

400 4spd; good info (as everyone else). After reading your post, I sanded away the paint and body filler on the rocker area that meets the rear wheel well. I can clearly see the weld seam (see pic). This is not a project in which I should cut corners; I think it’s in my best interest to order all new rockers and floor pan braces. Having the new rockers in front of me should help me decide where to make the proper cuts. Perhaps about 7 days for them to arrive if our host has them in stock.

Also, I found an informative web site which I find to be of value; perhaps some of the members here already know about it. http://www.squidsfabshop.com/

[400 4spd.]

Have you examined the other side of the car to see how the rocker is supposed to look, and how it was welded in? That will proably be your guide for a proper installation. That and having the door in place. Everything I see on the driver's side is short cutted and wrong.
And I agree, you absolutely need the new parts in front of you before cutting anything. You never know how complete or accurate your new part will be, or if it is even available for that matter.
I've waited months for sheet metal (from other companies, not PY) that stopped me in my tracks. I once waited 6 months for a company to finish design and begin stamping a floor pan.

[RedDirtRoad]

Its ashame you didnt see my thread before you bought the floor pans.
I had my original foor out and a new one peice floor in and completed in under 5 hours.
A one peice floor is much easier to install and looks undetectable from underneath too making it a finished repair
I hope it works out for you without too much trouble

[jimib]

400 4spd: The rocker on both sides of vehicle look about the same; I should upload a pic of the right side.

RedDirt: Nice looking pictures. WOW, 5 hours…..that’s incredible, I wish I had your skill set. Being that I’m purchasing new floor braces, I will be a little more aggressive with the cutting. Thus far I’ve been super cautious with the cutting because I’m afraid of screwing something up.

The area that the door sill plate screws to; is that part of the outer rocker?

BTW; I have a neighbor who owns a welding company; don’t know his specialty. How feasible would it be to have (hire) him to remove the rotted floor pan with a plasma cutter (whatever it’s called)? I already removed the fuel tank for safety.

[400 4spd.]

Yeah, the sill plate is attached to the outer rocker. The inner attaches to the outer at the vertical pinchweld, where the sill plate lays on top, and the bottom most edge under the rocker. The inner is mostly hidden by the edge of the floor pan from above.

Be aware that sparks from a grinder, plasma or mig will fuse to and damage glass, so take precautions.

[RedDirtRoad]

yes I highly recommend a plasma cutter. It makes work easy and quiet too.

[jimib]

As I wait for my rockers and braces to arrive, I removed the rotted metal from under the kick panel (driver side). What’s left appears to be solid metal (see pic). I guess I’ll have to fabricate a replacement piece of sheet metal? And/or, another option…..when I did a Google search, most of the pic’s show a conversion of this area to speakers. Has anyone done this?

An area of concern for me is where the fender attaches to the bottom of the hinge pillar; I believe this is called a J-Nut? This area appears solid when I banged it with a hammer. I can’t tell what the original metal looked like; I’ll do a Google picture search. By looking at my hinge pillar pic’s, outside and inside, can anyone advise on my best options for repair?

[jimib]

Do I need to lift the entire body off the frame to replace the floor braces or is one side at a time sufficient?

As I gradually and carefully remove the old rockers, I’m beginning to see how the new ones will fit. Looking back at “400 4spd’s” suggestion (#20), it’s becoming evident that I’ll have to cut the lower pillar or the rocker. I think I would prefer to cut the rocker “a little bit away from the pillar edge” since the pillar appears to be a thicker metal or has additional plates weld onto it. The inside of the pillar is disastrous; hopeful www.squidsfabshop.com will help me with this problem.

[400 4spd.]

I used to have some lower pillar/front rocker sections from a 67 stashed away. I'll take a look and see if I still have them.

[jimib]

I have another question in addition to the one above:

I’m trying to separate the left rocker (could be part of outer) from the rear, left inside area where it is welded to the metal that the rear window is behind. I’ve removed the spot welds and now using an air chisel to separate these two pieces. It’s separating but very slowly and I’m worried about causing unwanted damage. Any suggestions? (see pic)

[zephyrracer]

Jim hows the progress coming ? Gregg

[jimib]

Thanks for asking Gregg.

Candidly; progress is slow because this is a new endeavor for me as was rebuilding the engine back in 2004. I think the engine rebuild was easier. I will continue to research, learn and will do this on my own (with advice that is).

Since my last post I bought a Hobart 140 (and a sand blaster) and I think I’m getting comfortable with plug and butt welds. Been practicing on scrap metal of course.

Currently I’m trying to figure out what piece to install first; whether it be the outer rockers, inner rockers or floor braces. A matter of uncertainty is how I’m going to join the outer rockers to the lower part of the pillars. I think I’m going to have to trim the new rockers but I’m reluctant to do this to a new part. I think the front section of the new outer rockers will have to be trimmed because if I try to remove the same section of the originals that has hard-to-access welds, I might cause unwanted damage. However; the original metal in this area appears to be intact.

Possibly I’m being too cautious. I have many questions to ask but I don’t want to be and annoyance here on this forum. As time permits, I try to figure this out.

[zephyrracer]

Jim reason I ask is my restoration is about the same as yours, other honey doe's have sidelined me but my questions will be the same as yours, I don't think anyone here will falt any questions asked, this is by far the best and friendliest forum I know of, I should be getting back to my restoration next month and I have lots of questions lined up

Take Care Gregg

[jimib]

Gregg…I would like to see pic’s of your progress; our cars are about the same. I will certainly post my foul ups (not my first choice in words) here on this thread. I figure it’s best to keep this project under one thread for easy reference for others. The heat, humidity and stagnant air down here is still brutal; therefore, puts a damper on progress.

[zephyrracer]

Jim I will get some pics posted soon my table top died and have a new lap top and camera so when it's all sorted will do so, one area that this forum has helped me with is what parts fit and what don't, the previous owners of my 66 took everything apart no rime or reason through it all in the corner had the wrong and cheap parts and useless parts destroyed many so I have been buying nos parts, the car will be a nice one when done.

Gregg

[jimib]

Hello All,
As I’m approching the point of installing the floor pans, braces, and inner/outer rockers, it’s becoming evident that I may have to lift the entire body off the frame. Is my assumption correct?

I have the front end of the body up a few inches because I repaired the body mount holes of positions 1, 2, 3 and 4 and have the replacement body mounts ready to be installed.

[ITSBACK]

I would think since the floor and rockers are out you will need some bracing before you lift it.

[jimib]

I guess the bottom line is that the floor braces and rockers “cannot” be installed with the body resting on the frame.

[jimib]

I hired a body guy to assist me and we were able to install the floor braces and outer/inner rockers. The passenger side rocker lines up well with the rear quarter and up to the hinge pillar; however, not so for the driver side. The driver side rocker lines up well with the rear quarter and gradually moves inward and finally at the hinge pillar, it sets inwards about half an inch. I’m not sure how well the pic’s will show this. When I have him over again, he suggested securing a come-along to the inside area of the left hinge and secure it to the opposite frame; then, use a Porta Power at the bottom of the hinge pillar to bend it out a half inch. Any suggestions on this problem? He thinks this vehicle may have been hit in this area at one time.

[400 4spd.]

If it's bent in to the tune of 1/2", a body man should be able to identify old damage or repairs. Any signs the door is not original? If not it could have been replaced because of old collision damage. Was the floor pan and/or rocker cut out while the door was on the car?
I have a 57 Chevy in the shop that needed a floor and rockers, so I went through something similar. It's nice to have the door bolted on for aligning the rocker, but the weight of a door can cause a post to sway in if not braced on the inside. If that's what happened his idea may work. If it's related to wreck damage it may have to be jacked out beyond the correct position to allow for springing back.