[rub]

I just took a look at the window panel area where it goes down to the floor.

You have four pieces of metal sandwiched together, but moving towards the front of the car where the door opens you only have three pieces sandwiched together.

The window panel area is the first lip

rocker second lip

floor pan third piece

rocker fourth lip.

The spot welds on mine are about three inches between them

Rob

[rub]

Another update on floor pans, same deal, web site, whats new.

Rob

[rub]

The picture doesn't show the center of the pans very good, (driveshaft tunnel), anyway I pulled out ten screws the full length of it, then as I kept putting the screws in it just naturally over lapped the other one, and the center seam is tight, didn't have to put a screw in between the supports, I got lucky, I was wondering what was going to happen when it came together.

[mzbk2l]

rub, if you already answered this, I apoligize; I didn't notice it.

What will you do when you're done with the welding? Screws stay in or come out? What will you do with the holes if they come out?

[Matador-IV]

rub,
Very nice work! And very informative website...I've bookmarked it to follow along as I also do my resto.

I'm curious as to your plan for the floor pans after you remove and weld the holes up. There will be 'dimples' from the screws pulling the metal together. Do you plan on using body filler or just leaving them? I've attached 2 reference pics from your website (hope you don't mind)

[rub]

Mike and Matador, I will try and answer both of you here.

The next step will be to mark the pans where I will trim them back in the front around the toe boards and the center hump and shift area.

When I get to the cutting, I will get some more pictures and go through it on here.

The intent here is to concentrate only on what the bottom of the floor looks like. The only thing distorted is the pans where the screws dimpled them on top of the supports. That because the pans are thinner then the supports.

Before I cut the pans, I will mark or get a rough idea where I will plug weld them. Probably every two or three inches. I will drill a 3/8'' hole through the pan only for these welds.

Now there all marked for cutting, marked for plug welds, I will unscrew them with a half inch reversible drill, it pops them out faster then an air ratchet.

Now the pans are out, shavings are cleaned out, I will deburr the pans and supports with a two inch disc on an air grinder.

The pans are ready to be plug welded in. They will be butt welded in the toe board, center hump and shift area.

By using all these screws you have kind of preformed the pan to the shape of the supports.

Lay the pan back in, put a few screws in the existing holes, make sure the butt weld area is aligned up, put a few tack welds in the butt weld area, then I'll probably jump around here and there with the welding so nothing gets over heated to stretch or shrink the metal.

Its a do it as you see it type situation when you're welding it back up, I'll put the whole deal on here.

I have a rotisserie to put it on, after the pans are spot welded so nothing moves, a lot easier then laying on my back welding them up.

So, after there all welded up, there are no screws left in, and I have welded the screw holes up, and ground them flat on the bottom of the supports.

I know have weld on the inside to deal with, so I will clean them up a little bit with a grinder, get any real high spots off, doesn't have to look that good, then sand blast it, epoxy and ready for sound proofing and carpeting.

Now back to the underside, there will only be weld in the holes, so you need to be carefull that you don't get any weld on the edge of the support, so you have a nice clean support and panel line when you're done.

When you have pans with new metal, and supports that are in nice shape, and sandblasted, this welding is a pleasure, versus welding old pans, don't get the blow through, its a piece of cake.

I hope I answered your questions, if not keep them coming, also anybody else reading this, if they can help out with any suggestions or explanations, please do it, were all here to learn.

As I go through the steps you will see whats going on a little better.

There is quite a bit of pressure put on these pans to pre form them with screws, but because its a little at a time, the supports, because there thicker, retain there original shape.

Anyway, thats it.

Rob

[rub]

Matador, you can use these pictures any time.

Rob

[rub]

Floorpan update.

Rob

[3 Chiefs]

Keep on what you are doing. This site is built on ideas and we appriciate yours. I really like the tiny holes you drilled in the rear seat bracket. Thats a good idea that I can use in other spots too. Keep up the good work. I am looking forward to the welding pictures.
Thanks Rob, Paul

[rub]

Thanks Paul. I appreciate it.

Rob

[rub]

Floor pan update.

Rob

[rub]

Another update

Rob

[matrix]

I have been following this thread since it started. Been driving me crazy. I just have to say it. That is entirely too many screws. I feel better now.

[rub]

Another update

Rob

[rub]

Matrix, I agree that is a lot of screws, so I guess we'll have to look at the finished product, and figure out if it was worth it.

When its all done and painted, I'll put about 20 close up pictures from all different angles, and we'll see what we got.

Rob

[rub]

Another update.

Rob

[eric65]

Ok Rob how did you get the spots driller out here???
mine is a 65 convertible and the floor actually angles a little toward the window area and I cant seem to get a drill on them>>??
Any tips??

Thanks
Eric

[rub]

Eric, you could take an air operated cut off wheel, or a dremel tool with a little cut off wheel, they have two types (dremel) get the one that is reinforced, five to a package.

Also a die grinder with a carbide burr or an angle drill.

It would probably be a good idea for you to use a dremel, I use them quite a bit on occasion. The reason for this, if you haven't ground out any spot welds it will give you a more cautious look at how its going.

When you grind out a spot weld, on the first couple, start out taking it kind of slow, and try to just grind out the top layer of metal on the weld, as you're grinding you will see the top layer of metal turn kind of blue, then move it around the spot weld until you see about three quarters of the top metal turn bluish, then take a putty knife, one that is fairly sharp, and try and separate the two pieces of metal, your ground out area will be larger then the spot weld and it won't look very pretty but don't worry about it.

Don't hammer to hard on the putty knife or you'll tear up the metal under it, if it doesn't break loose with a couple of decent taps with the hammer, grind on it a little more.

I hope I explained this okay.

Rob

[rub]

Floorpan update, check the whats new page on my site.

Rob

[rub]

Floorpan update, check whats new on my website.

Rob