[mviker]

Hey guys...

Getting ready to replace the timing cover on my 62 GP. Thinking since it's going to be apart, that it'd be a good time to replace the timing chain while it's apart. Anyone have a rec on any specific brand double roller chain and gears to put in?

Also going to have the cover machined for the newer 63 seal while I'm at it.

Kevin

[webfoot]

I have always used cloyes but there are several good brands out there and you may be able to find a US made one still.

What is the deal with machining the cover? Is the 62 and earlier seal tough to find?

[mviker]

Originally Posted by webfoot

I have always used cloyes but there are several good brands out there and you may be able to find a US made one still.

What is the deal with machining the cover? Is the 62 and earlier seal tough to find?

Thanks webfoot.

The 62 crank seal is some spring loaded cork gizmo that mounts inside the timing cover and is prone to leaking. A nice upgrade is to machine the outside to specs for the 63 seal. It works much better, plus can be changed without pulling the timing cover down the road. It's a good thing to do if you have the cover off or are replacing it. I had it done on the current cover. Works great. I'm replacing it because one of the bolt threads for my fuel pump is stripped and I'm leaking oil from it.

Kevin

[Engine-Ear]

As a point of comparison, whose chain is in the engine now, how many miles are on it and how saggy is it?

[mviker]

Originally Posted by Engine-Ear

As a point of comparison, whose chain is in the engine now, how many miles are on it and how saggy is it?

Hey Matt,

That's all yet to be determined. I had the engine built back in 2007. Bolt for the fuel pump was stripped out then, but I just drove the car anyway. It's been in the back of my mind to fix since then, but I just decided to address it. Timing chain is probably not that bad as there's I'm guessing, around 30k miles on it, but I figure if the timing cover is coming of, I may as well do the chain and gears while I'm there.

I spose if I remove the cover and the chain looks good, then I'll skip it, but want to have the parts on hand just in case. I couldn't tell you what brand the chain is that's in it now. I left that to the builder. Guess I should have asked about that at the time it was done. Just didn't occur to me. The cars got some git up and go and I like to open it up whenever I get the opportunity, so I figure I might as well do it while I'm in there. Will see how it looks when the cover comes off. Probably be in another couple weeks since I'm in the parts gathering mode at the moment.

Kevin

[webfoot]

While the motor is out, you might as well take the frame out and put the body on a rotisserie.

[Engine-Ear]

Originally Posted by webfoot

While the motor is out, you might as well take the frame out and put the body on a rotisserie.

I always say, "Every restoration starts with an oil change."

Kevin's car is already really nice, so maybe it'll just get an underhood nut-and-bolt resto...

Kev, are you using a 2 degree offset key in the cam? It helps offset chain stretch.

[Pontiac62]

Kevin,
I just did this in February. I needed to change lifters and decided I would have the cover machined and also change the timing chain set. Like you, I left the choice of the previous one to the machine shop. I was surprised to see how sloppy the old one was. It's been in the car about 10 years, but only had about 30K miles on it.

I decided to go with the "Cloyes Original True Roller Timing Set". I went with #9-3112, which was quite a bit more money. It's supposed to be matched parts (whatever that means), but I was told the other one was just parts picked from the bins.

Good Luck,
Les

PS. I bought the set from Summit.

[mviker]

Kevin,
I just did this in February. I needed to change lifters and decided I would have the cover machined and also change the timing chain set. Like you, I left the choice of the previous one to the machine shop. I was surprised to see how sloppy the old one was. It's been in the car about 10 years, but only had about 30K miles on it.

I decided to go with the "Cloyes Original True Roller Timing Set". I went with #9-3112, which was quite a bit more money. It's supposed to be matched parts (whatever that means), but I was told the other one was just parts picked from the bins.

Good Luck,
Les

PS. I bought the set from Summit.


Les,

Thanks for the part number. I'll check that out. I've also got about 30k miles on my motor. It's running great, but why not do the timing chain and gears while I'm in there and be certain everything's good? That's what I say. Should only be an additional 15 minutes of effort to make sure the engine's happy. I'm almost to the point I'm ready. Got the cover machined. Also had a real nice alignment tool made up for making sure the cover goes on well.

Matt... You're right on. Going to do the job with the motor in the car. Should be easy once all the parts are in hand. Just need a nice afternoon and some time. I'm planning on refreshing some of the engine bay and also fixing an issue with bad bearings in the generator since most everything on the front of the motor will be coming out to do the job right. Guess I'll loosen the intake also so I can get a tight seal to the cover when it goes on. Sheesh! The more I think about this, the bigger the project! Lotsa fun though.

Timing chain & gears are the last things on the list. Hopr to git 'er done soon after as long as weather permits. Dang... I gotta have a garage one of these days!

Kevin

[Pontiac62]

You mean you are going to miss out on all the fun of adjusting the valves

[mviker]

Ha! You had to mention valves? Engine's got solid lifters, so that's on the list also. Not a bad thing to do after the chain. Thanks for reminding me!

[mviker]

"Kev, are you using a 2 degree offset key in the cam? It helps offset chain stretch."

Matt, Is this something that is done with a typical chain set? I haven't heard of this that I'm aware of. I know some chain sets come with multi keyways for adjusting timing, but this sounds a bit different.

[Engine-Ear]

Kevin, if you have Pete McCarthy's second book (with the color pictures), he talks about this. It compensates for (inevitable) chain stretch. LMK if you don't have it and I will scan, cite and post it...

[Doug]

I had a 62 with a stripped out fuel pump bolt. Removed fuel pump, fished smaller diameter size bolt from INSIDE of cover, reinstalled pump. (Use a longer bolt so you can "triple nut" it to allow you to tighten the bolt mounting nut.) Repair made with engine in car in less than an hour.

P.S. I use dental floss whenever I "fish" bolts.

[Goatracer1]

Its a lot easier to tap hole oversize and drill hole in pump or heli-coil cover.

[Engine-Ear]

Originally Posted by Goatracer1

Its a lot easier to tap hole oversize and drill hole in pump or heli-coil cover.

True, IF you're committed to removing the cover.

[hurryinhoosier62]

Originally Posted by Engine-Ear

True, IF you're committed to removing the cover.

No, Matt, not always. I've done it, but it's NOT easy.

[mviker]

I considered repairing the cover while installed via the heli coils. Also considered just fixing the old cover too, but another good cover came my way, so I figured I'd just use it instead. I am still planning the heli coil repair on the old one, but it'll be a backup or spare if I ever need it. It's always nice to have spare parts, right?

I'm fixing some other nagging things along the way, so truthfully, this project was just an excuse to tear into the car to do the other things. Got a generator with bad bearings... got them replaced. Going to do some detail work inside the engine bay while I have it ..apart too, so no big deal, especially since winter's sneaking up and the car's going to hibernate over the cold months. It'll give me something to play with. I'm not in any hurry to get it done, just so long as she's ready next spring.

Kevin

[mviker]

Originally Posted by Pontiac62

Kevin,
I just did this in February. I needed to change lifters and decided I would have the cover machined and also change the timing chain set. Like you, I left the choice of the previous one to the machine shop. I was surprised to see how sloppy the old one was. It's been in the car about 10 years, but only had about 30K miles on it.

I decided to go with the "Cloyes Original True Roller Timing Set". I went with #9-3112, which was quite a bit more money. It's supposed to be matched parts (whatever that means), but I was told the other one was just parts picked from the bins.

Good Luck,
Les

PS. I bought the set from Summit.

Les,

Found your Cloyes timing chain and gears on Amazon for $75.63 plus $11.00 shipping, then used Jegs with their price matching and got it. I'm not sure if I trust Amazon yet, but it sure was good to use with Jegs price matching deal. Total cost - $86.73. Looks to be about $20 - $40 cheaper than other places. I'm a happy camper!

Now, if the weather would just cooperate one of these weekends. Might have to hold off until spring. Sokay.. I'm using the downtime to clean and paint brackets and other parts to go back in, so no mad rush. Thanks for the heads up and recommendation!

Here's the Jegs link:

http://www.jegs.com/i/Cloyes/220/9-3112/10002/-1

Here's the Amazon link:

http://www.amazon.com/Cloyes-9-3112-.../dp/B000CINPRA

Just put the amazon URL into the price match at Jegs, along with shipping, and Jegs gives you the same pricing. Sweet!

Kevin

[webfoot]

I've used Amazon extensively. Never had any issues at all.