[gtorich]

Hi, i fired the car up for the first time today after getting new rings installed...........have it set at 12 degrees BTDC, fired up pretty good ran it for a few minutes at 1000-2000 rpm............i have the vacuum advanced plugged on the distributor...............as soon as i let off the gas the car shuts off instantly..........fired it up again, ran for a few minutes.........soon as you let up on the gas, it dies.

The cam is the OF, been in the car for 12 years now............kind of hard to time anything if it wont idle..........

Any tips on what im doing wrong here......................forgot to mention, i tried to fire it up again after the 2nd start....................sound like the battery is almost dead, so im going out to pick up a new one now.

Rich

[Sirrotica]

Retard the timing a little bit before you try it again, could be the hard cranking, and no idle problem all in one setting. Just a guess from previous experience, and your descriptions.

[gtorich]

Originally Posted by Sirrotica

Retard the timing a little bit before you try it again, could be the hard cranking, and no idle problem all in one setting. Just a guess from previous experience, and your descriptions.

Good tip Brad, got the new battery, retared the timing a hair, fired right up. let it run for a couple of minutes, but didnt let it idle........didnt even try to idle it, then noticed the water temp gage said 240............which durning the first minutes running it didnt even register.

Thinking something must have happened to that gauge..............radiator isnt even warm.............both top and bottom hoses are somewhat warm..............took the radiator cap off...........no issues, if anything it need more anti-freeze, i already put in 2 1/2 gallons.

To sum it up, the car is running, but doesnt sound like it just to.................wouldnt call it rough, but certainly would call it smooth either............

Would it pay to go a little more retarted, seems to start better there, but that could be the new battery.....................or while its running should i try advancing it and see how that goes.

Would putting the vacuum advance back on the dist help in any way..............im not sure i can break in these new rings by just sitting in the car going between 1000-2000 rpm

Rich

[Sirrotica]

When I fire a fresh engine I take the RPM up to about 1000 RPM and twist the dist to where it is the smoothest, that will usually get it to idle. Set the timing and drive the car out on the road. Running it at 2000 RPM doesn't seat rings, it's for cam break in.

Varying the speed between 1500-2500 under load is what seats rings, or 40-60 MPH. Run it up and coast it back down so that the vacuum is high, and low. I try to do that for 50 miles, if the rings havent seated by that time something is not right. Worked for me for 50 plus years, or I wouldn't recommend it.

If you still can't get it idling smooth check basics like firing order, tight valves if your's are adjustable, vacuum leaks, get it running right and take it on the road to seat the rings. Vacuum advance is going to need to be hooked up before you drive it. You can let it idle while your getting the tune right, not letting it idle is again for flat tappet cam break in, not rings.

Hopefully this works out for you...

[gtorich]

Varying the speed between 1500-2500 under load is what seats rings, or 40-60 MPH. Run it up and coast it back down so that the vacuum is high, and low. I try to do that for 50 miles, if the rings havent seated by that time something is not right. Worked for me for 50 plus years, or I wouldn't recommend it.

10/4 on that Brad..................got to get this thing timed right....................put in another gallon of anti-freeze................still not full, and its not leaking out...........lol..............so your saying turn the distributor one way or the other once its running, get it somewhat smooth, then set the timing...........

I put in a new thermostat, tested it on the oven..............seems to work there, so do you think it could be defective one way or the other...................240 on temp, im usually freaking out when it hits 185............lol

I have the firing order triple checked...............will do again,

[Gach]

If it took another gal, probably why running so hot. Yeah getting running and move distributor around. Should do it.

[Gach]

If the thermostat worked in the oven don’t think its that more then likely it got Air bound and not circulating the water

[gtorich]

Well, finally got it running halfway decent....................the good news is the tkx shifts real nice..........lol..................im not sure what is going on with the idle on the car, i cant seem to get it to go below 1100 ish...............last year it was always at 850-900.............been that way for the last 8-9 years...........in pic that is the only screw i every had to mess with to get the idle good.

I know my tack is reading 1100 or so, but it sounds like im way above that while running...........so not sure whats up with that noise.............other issue, i have the hood off, but while driving you can see the upper hose collapsing while driving...............temp always stayed at 175-180 though.

Radiator ended up taking.about 4 gallons.............cold case rad.

Happy the car is finally running...................have to call silver sport on the speed-o gear...............i dont think i was even at 50 and that thing was reading 60.

To clairy , in the pic im sending is the idle screw im talking about...........by the fast idle cam...............if turning it tighter the idle goes up..............if i go any looser the screw will fall out.

Rich

[gtorich]

Ok, been a couple hours or so from the last drive....................this cant be good...........lol

Thinking this is the cap that came with the cold case.............but seeing i have crs, i might have had the old champion cap on before.............no matter never saw anything like this.

Rich

[gtorich]

Just looked at the pic from taking the motor apart..........................same cap as i have on now.......................old hose from from ames..................new one from ames................very strange , nothing has been changed since the last couple of years except for the 5 speed trans..................and new rings put on the motor.

Rich

[Gach]

Common cause for radiator hose collapse is a vacuum issue caused by a faulty radiator cap. Caps are rated around 14–16 psi.

[Gach]

It could very well be radiator cap specially if it does it under load. What size is your cap 14-16lbs

[mgarblik]

The collapsed radiator hose is usually a defective radiator cap. That should be an easy fix. The rough idle situation is most likely something allowing the front and rear carb to be open just slightly. Check the link on the passenger side and make sure it didn't get bent and shortened by that bend. That will slightly pull the end carbs open. Or for testing purposes just take that link off and use the center carb only. Other than that verify there are no vacuum leaks. Check PCV and Power brake hose if you have PB.

[johnta1]

I think I would change that hose?

I also think the suction side is the bottom hose?
(the top hose shouldn't do that?)
Most of my bottom hoses have a spring thingy in it to keep it from collapsing.

What is the actual timing degree number you are at?

I didn't realize you had a tripower setup.
The carbs may not be synchronized correctly?
Should idle off the middle carb, so maybe the outers are not set correctly?

[gtorich]

Originally Posted by Gach

It could very well be radiator cap specially if it does it under load. What size is your cap 14-16lbs

Hey Gach, good to hear from you. God knows what size the cap is, looked at some pics before i had the motor apart, same cap that is on now.

It looked a little collapsed while driving...............but this was from a few hrs later............now ..that is collapsed..............lol...............not even sure which way to turn from here..................before the re-ring of the motor...............car was flawless, change the trans and i get this stuff.

The only other thing i changed was i had a fuel filter before the pump.............read you didnt need this, only a filter after the pump...............that is the only change i made from running with no issues to this today..............odd.

Both upper & lower hoses were new from ames.............the same as the old ones from ames.............so idk what is going on here.

Rich

[gtorich]

Originally Posted by mgarblik

The collapsed radiator hose is usually a defective radiator cap. That should be an easy fix. The rough idle situation is most likely something allowing the front and rear carb to be open just slightly. Check the link on the passenger side and make sure it didn't get bent and shortened by that bend. That will slightly pull the end carbs open. Or for testing purposes just take that link off and use the center carb only. Other than that verify there are no vacuum leaks. Check PCV and Power brake hose if you have PB.

Mike, i did check the cap, same as the one i had on last year............i guess i will have to check for vacuum leaks...........like i said before, this is the same set up i have on for the last ten years...............never a issue, car ran perfect...........all i did different was to put in a tkx trans............the only other thing different was taking off the fuel filter before the mech pump and using the filter by the carb.

No idea on whats going on with that top hose............brand new, same as the old one.....................just weird only changed the trans, and now this..........

Rich

[Gach]

hey Rich…Oh yeah it is a Tri Power Nice . Some times caps sit around for a while, the idle thing could very well be because its got new rings, it changes things not much, but as Mike said could also be a linkage thing. I don’t know, I suppose you could try a new cap, the idle thing easier fix just got to tinker with it. I mean you got good ring seal now.

[Gach]

Rich pick up either a 14 or 16# cap.

[steve25]

Your high idle may well be due to a vacuum leak.

To check that first get the motor to idle as low as you can, then with a rag block off each end Carb separately.

When you do such does the idle change?

If not then move to the center Carb and slowly close off the choke, if your idle speed picks up then you do have a vacuum leak to chase down.

Note that I have seen motors that are running rich pick up idle speed as the engine gets heat soaked and the temps get above 190, and especially above 210.

[PunchT37]

I would check for vacuum leaks and/or trash in your carb idle circuit.