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#1
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Rear main seal
I have both a BOP and a TIP in stock. I’ve never installed either. Motor is a ‘67 400 with a Scat forged crank.
Any preference on which is better? Any tips on installing that may not be covered in the instructions?
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" Darksiders Rule "
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#2
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https://www.bopengineering.com/viton_compare.shtml
A comparison. I have used the brown ones sucessfully. |
#3
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ive used both, wo issue, as long as crank has no serrations and i don't think a scat does you should be fine with either.
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1969 carousel red firebird 455, richmond 5 speed 1964 540 gto 1971 lemans sport convertible 1972 Maverick under slow construction |
#4
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By no means an expert here, but I really like the BOP 2 piece seal. Motor with eagle crank with serated seal area, had 5 years with no leaks. Just refreshed over the winter and re used the seal. Still no leaks.
Only used the one piece seal once, and it had a small leak when ironically using on a crank with smooth surface. Most likely installing error on my part... Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
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68 Firebird-- Street/Strip - 400/461 Eagle Forged Bottom End & Ross Flat top pistons. KRE 325 CFM D port, Ultradyne 263/271 @.050, .4267 lift. Crower Solid roller lifters and 1.65 stainless rockers. Quickfuel 1000 on Torker2 intake and 2" open spacer. Hedman 1.75" headers. TH400 w/brake. Ford 9" w/3.80 gears & 28x9 Hoosier pro bracket drag radial. Best ET: 1.35 60ft, 6.29 @ 107.20 mph, 9.99 @132.33 mph. 3,300 race weight |
#5
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I've installed a few 2- piece, and 1 1- piece onto the 3.25" mains. Well the 1-piece looks formidable but putting it on ONCE is pretty easy.
Just don't do it a few times, as if you gotta sort-out the Main Bearing Clearances ahead of time....like i did. |
#6
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has anyone tried nightmare performance 1pc seal?
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#7
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I ended up installing the BOP seal.
How does one get a one piece seal over the crank flange?
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" Darksiders Rule "
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#8
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The same way you get rings onto pistions, carefully!
Plus it's a two person job, one to guide the seal into the groove while the other lowers the Crank.
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Wernher Von Braun warned before his retirement from NASA back in 1972, that the next world war would be against the ETs! And he was not talking about 1/8 or 1/4 mile ETs! 1) 1940s 100% silver 4 cup tea server set. Two dry rotted 14 x 10 Micky Thompson slicks. 1) un-mailed in gift coupon from a 1972 box of corn flakes. Two pairs of brown leather flip flops, never seen more then 2 mph. Education is what your left with once you forget things! |
#9
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^^^ yes on the 2 person part..... You have to slice the seal per the instructions and as stated...CAREFULLY "tweek" it into position.
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#10
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Sanding is required with that one piece. Lots of test fitting, on and off of the rear cap. Seal needs to be centered without wrinkles.
Call BOP and Mark will explain. BTW, I used a couple of nylon straps and a come along to lower the crank. And it was still a 2 person job. |
#11
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If it`s got serrations on the seal surface, I would go rope seal. Permatex #1 on parting line.
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#12
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For the record our seals have been used on serrated cranks for 20 plus years with no issues, tens of thousands of them. The only time the serrations are an issue is on aftermarket cranks (like Eagle) where the serrations are deep and aggressive.
We have evolved our install practices over the years. It is important to realize that what varies from engine to engine is the block groove and not so much the crank. Therefore, we recommend to fit the seals (one or two piece) to the block. This is typically done by sanding the OD until either the correct protrusion is achieved (two-piece) or the cut line is fluid (one-piece). If the ends are trimmed the ID becomes smaller which is not Ideal. The instructions are thorough but feel free to call with any questions, anytime.
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Wade Congdon BOP Engineering Hi-Performance Specialty Parts for Buick, Olds, and Pontiac www.bopengineering.com |
The Following User Says Thank You to Wade Congdon For This Useful Post: | ||
#13
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Can someone post a photo of a Pontiac crank with no serrations? Later modification on a lathe doesn't qualify.
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Mick Batson 1967 original owner Tyro Blue/black top 4-speed HO GTO with all the original parts stored safely away -- 1965 2+2 survivor AC auto -- 1965 Catalina Safari Wagon in progress. |
#14
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get the serrations polished off at a crank shop down to flush with the journal.
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GOOD IDEAS ARE OFTEN FOUND ABANDONED IN THE DUST OF PROCRASTINATION |
The Following User Says Thank You to KEN CROCIE For This Useful Post: | ||
#15
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Here you are Mike, this is a Scat crank I just got from Butler, as you can see the seal area is sooth as a baby's butt.
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Tim Corcoran |
#16
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So pretty - and surprising...
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Mick Batson 1967 original owner Tyro Blue/black top 4-speed HO GTO with all the original parts stored safely away -- 1965 2+2 survivor AC auto -- 1965 Catalina Safari Wagon in progress. |
#17
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I am curious, why are there serrations on there to begin with. Thanks, Marc.
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#18
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They were on factory cranks to provide some oil to the ID of the original asbestos rear main seal. Kept the RMS from grabbing the crank, lubed, pliable, etc
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67 LeMans, 326, M20, 3.31 12 Bolt |
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